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Old 01-18-2011, 12:36 AM   #51
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windrider, you make a vaild point. There are a lot of people whose only towing experience is a dozen or so weekends during the summer. I'm not putting anyone down, but at that rate it will take a few years to learn what you need to know and get enough experience to develope any skill. That's one reason I am cautious, just like acadianbob, when offering my opinion on tow vehicles, trailers and related items. I try to advise people to err on the side of safety. No combination is fool proof but maybe a set-up with a safety margin built in along with a proper hitch will help someone avoid an accident. Of course more than likely if it does, we'll never know.
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:39 AM   #52
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...Anyway, you all seem pretty cordial in your discussions so I thought I'd just throw out the "what price" question.

Sure, I'll give you an answer (although it's only my answer):

1000-1200 bucks (CDN).

That's what I paid for my Husky Centerline hitch (even that "hurt" quite a bit).

You're probably familar with it if you design and sell hitches, it's a WD hitch with "active" sway control.

It's got more manufacturing steps and components in it as opposed to an equalizer, yet not quite as much "metal" in it as a hensly or PP. I would think it is comparable to manufacturing processes in building a Propride or Hensley hitch.

Yet it's half the price (from all prices I've seen). The 2400-ish asked for the HA or PP (plus shipping for me) is just too big a big pill to swallow, no matter how good it is.

I'm not trying to start a discussion about which one is better, just point out the manufacturing/price similarities and disparities.

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Old 01-18-2011, 11:31 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by windrider View Post
What a discussion! Now let me add my 1.5 cents. Trailer towing is 20% trailer, 20% tow vehicle, %60 driver. Don't believe it? How many 2 wheel drive vehicles have a wreck in the snow and how many 4 wheel drive? Maybe there are more 4 wheel drive vehicles out there as a percentage, but they still wreck. If the NTSB were to investigate them like they do a plane crash, the results would be, too fast for the conditions/driver error. Probably get the same results from towing accidents. Don't get me wrong, you need a good hitch set up properly, and a good tow vehicle, but you also need to understand how to drive that combination. I'll get down now, no applause necessary. Safe towing everyone.
The problem is that the act of towing is a cybernetic system with many variables. An action in that system changes the characteristics of the system. For example, a wind gust hits the side of the combination placing a load at the hitch ball, that load is acting at a lever arm behind the rear axle and attempts to turn the tow vehicle, the driver then must correct. The act of correction changes the system again and that feedback is put into the trailer and on and on it goes. Can more experience help? Sure it can. Is it the answer? I have plenty of customers who towed 30+ years until their system failed.

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Sure, I'll give you an answer (although it's only my answer):

1000-1200 bucks (CDN).

That's what I paid for my Husky Centerline hitch (even that "hurt" quite a bit).

You're probably familar with it if you design and sell hitches, it's a WD hitch with "active" sway control.

It's got more manufacturing steps and components in it as opposed to an equalizer, yet not quite as much "metal" in it as a hensly or PP. I would think it is comparable to manufacturing processes in building a Propride or Hensley hitch.

Yet it's half the price (from all prices I've seen). The 2400-ish asked for the HA or PP (plus shipping for me) is just too big a big pill to swallow, no matter how good it is.

I'm not trying to start a discussion about which one is better, just point out the manufacturing/price similarities and disparities.

Thanks for the answer Great White. I appreciate it. I'm not sure where the Centerline is made but I am familiar with the design.

You sound like you might have some manufacturing experience. I think you'd be surprised at the differences in the two. For example, the machining for the bearing housings alone is a cost that conventional hitches do not incur in the manufacturing.
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:18 PM   #54
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"For example, a wind gust hits the side of the combination placing a load at the hitch ball, that load is acting at a lever arm behind the rear axle and attempts to turn the tow vehicle, the driver then must correct."

This is exactly the reason why I chose the F250 5.4L over the F150 5.4L for my tow vehicle. The extra 1000lbs under me helps greatly to counterbalance the force placed on the tow vehicle in this situation as opposed to a lighter truck.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:53 PM   #55
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SO I have a 2005 F250 Super Duty and I am Looking at buying a 2011 Puma 30-KFB should I be concerned?

Thanks,


AL
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Big Dawg,

This depends on what length Travel Trailer you have and the wheelbase of you Tow Vehicle. For example, I tow a 33 ft TT with a 132" wheelbase TV. This is by far the logest TT I have owned. My dealer sold me a Blue Ox Sway Pro (which I now have listed for sale) and stated I would be fine. I experienced more sway than I would prefer in windy conditions with that hitch no matter how I set it up. After finding this forum I learned to take the wheelbase of you TV in inches and divide by 5, this gives the longest length trailer in feet that you should tow. In my case I should stick to about 26 ft max. We love our Rockwood too much so after research I found a used Hensley Arrow. Now even though I am towing a TT that is too long for my TV I have no sway.

In summary, use the formula of divide TV wheelbase by 5 to get trailer length in feet and if you are below that in length of TT use a conventional friction sway control system. If you fall outside that formula get a Hensley or a ProPride hitch.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:05 AM   #56
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WD hitches

We have used a Easy Lift, Blue Ox, Equalizer, and now have a Hensley Arrow and have been using it since 2008. All have worked but seems like all have their own pros and cons. Of the friction type we had the best results with the Equalizer. We considered the Reese Dual Cam, but Mrs Wildwod pushed for the Hensley. It is pricey, but she did the research on it and decided that was what she wanted to try and thought she would be most confortable with. After installing and using it for our first trip of 2008 she said that was some of the best results for the money spent.

For the safety of yourself and others, peace of mind, a great day of driving pulling your TT, get a good hitch, find a type and brand that suits your TW and TT needs. I was lucky enough to find a dealer you would work and trade with me so I was able to try the above hitches other than the Hensly. Ask a lot of advice, I'm sure everyone has some expericene and advice (as always, some good and some bad) and research it out, do your homework.

Check your TW and TT weights, check your tire pressure, check you side to side and front to rear balance, drive at a safe speed for your TW and TT combo.

Tow safe and the whole day of traveling will be better.
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:05 PM   #57
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SO I have a 2005 F250 Super Duty and I am Looking at buying a 2011 Puma 30-KFB should I be concerned?

Thanks,


AL
I've never looked at that particular model before, just checked the Puma website, nice floorplan.

As long as you are within the gross vehicle weight limits of your F250 you should be fine with a good weight distribution hitch (Blue Ox/Equalizer or a Hensley/Propride for added anti-sway insurance). The wheelbase calculation is a guideline to go by and not written law. What is your trucks wheelbase? If you go strictly by the calculation you would need a 173 3/4" wheelbase vehicle. I just checked the Chevy website (sorry, GM guy so cannot even go to the that other truck site, computer won't let me) and even a 3500 dually only has a 167.7" wheelbase. As long as your truck is not a shortbed, short cab I would think that you will be fine. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:07 PM   #58
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I have the Reese Dual Cam and have great results with it. I have pulled my Trailer through 20-30 mph in Kansas and in NY. I felt stable and confident and my dad was following me in NY in his class A and had to pull over due to the wind conditions. He commented on how straight my trailer was tracking. Just my 2 cents good luck on the search.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:38 PM   #59
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This discussion is very timely for me because I was told just today by an engineer from Dexter Chassis Group that the Reese Dual Cam Sway Control is not recommended because it requires that two holes be drilled in the frame in order to mount the sway control frame plate. He went on to say that not only was the Reese system not recommended, the drilling of the two holes voids the warranty. I understand that Dexter Chassis makes most of the frames used by Forest River. I have a new Rockwood 2304 which is the reason I called Dexter. Has anyone else had the same experience and if so what did you do?
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:39 PM   #60
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I have a 2005 Larait F250 Superduty with a crew cab and standard bed and tow package.

The GVWR is 10,000 lbs and the wheel base is 172".

The camper breakdown is this: GVWR is 11, 315 lbs
Dry weight is 8,130 lbs,

I plan on getting a equalizer hitch system.

Thanks,
Al
As long as you do not take all your belongings with you camping you should be OK towing the Puma. That is a lot of cargo/option capacity for a trailer, just don't load it up. Your truck has plenty of wheelbase to tow that length of trailer IMO. Have fun, be safe, and enjoy.
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