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Old 06-08-2011, 12:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jrennich View Post
This may sound stupid but I have heard it from a couple different guys. When you install your sway control bar, if you really tighten that sucker down, it takes a little while for the trailer to straighten back out after taking corners. It doesn't sound like this would affect it.......but it is worth a try.
The Equalizer brand is not the type of sway control that you are thinking about..
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:31 PM   #12
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Are the "L" brackets supposed to be lubed on a Equalizer brand wd hitch ??
Equalizer sells a lube and they sell teflon pads/covers that slide onto the L brackets to help with the noise.
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:41 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by dretired View Post
Are the "L" brackets supposed to be lubed on a Equalizer brand wd hitch ??
Short answer? No.

EQ says it is OK to have a very thin layer of lub to help with noise and it will not significantly affect sway control.

The majority of the sway control comes from the sockets and these are supposed to be lubed where they come into contact with the hitch head. They are also supposed to be torqued to spec. I use 55 ft lbs and that works well for me. Check the torque every now and then as well. I have used a little bit of grease on the L brackets and to tell the truth it didn't do much of anything: didn't cut down on noise much or affect sway control at all.
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:12 AM   #14
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I got used to the noise, at least I know the bars are still attached and working.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:28 PM   #15
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I put a few drops of lower gear oil on my bracket pivot points,, then put the bars in .....and swung them back and forth.. it helped a lot with the noise
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:38 PM   #16
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I made some adjustments before this weekend's outing. My wife noticed the difference (comfort) in the way the truck was riding almost as soon as we pulled away from the house.

I removed one of the washers and hooked everything back up. I took measurements unhitched, hitched without WD, and hitched with WD. Hitched with WD, my front is back to its unhitched height. The rear wheel wells are lower by about an inch.

One of the sockets was very difficult to move, so I loosened the nut a little. That took care of a lot of the weird pulling I was experiencing. I'll buy the lube and a torque wrench for the sockets before I head out again.

Thanks again for all of the help.

Matt
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:04 AM   #17
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Sounds like you are in good shape now.
There are different schools of thought. It's my understanding that the older Equal-i-zer kits came with instructions to shoot for "equal compression". That's basically what you had ("all corners dropped 3/4"). But as more and more light trucks (SUV and 1/2-ton) picked up more towing capacity, I think they were afraid that equal compression from a 7000 lb trailer would overload an F150 front axle (?).

So, it seems that they have switched to the other school of thought. The instructions on my kit (purchased this year) have you shoot for stock front height, or just slightly higher. I personally think that's a typo, and should read "Same or slightly lower". Anything higher than stock front height is not meeting the need of putting all lost weight back to the front.

Take all of this together, and my recommendation is:
Make sure you have at least brought your front wheel well back to stock height. "Just a bit higher" makes no sense, and I suspect it's a typo and should say "Same, or just a bit lower".
You can shoot for as much as equal compression as long as you get your front axle weighed to be sure it's not overloaded.
In your case, if stock front height eliminates the pull, you're good to go.

Did removing the washer make any difference is the trailer being level? If it's noticable, raise the ball 1 notch.
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:12 AM   #18
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I bought the lube and lubed the sockets before heading out on this trip. The pulling is gone. I guess the dry steel on steel just had too much friction.

Thanks again for all of your input. The trailer pulls great.

Matt
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