Sounds like you are in good shape now.
There are different schools of thought. It's my understanding that the older Equal-i-zer kits came with instructions to shoot for "equal compression". That's basically what you had ("all corners dropped 3/4"). But as more and more light trucks (SUV and 1/2-ton) picked up more towing capacity, I think they were afraid that equal compression from a 7000 lb trailer would overload an F150 front axle (?).
So, it seems that they have switched to the other school of thought. The instructions on my kit (purchased this year) have you shoot for stock front height, or just slightly higher. I personally think that's a typo, and should read "Same or slightly lower". Anything higher than stock front height is not meeting the need of putting all lost weight back to the front.
Take all of this together, and my recommendation is:
Make sure you have at least brought your front wheel well back to stock height. "Just a bit higher" makes no sense, and I suspect it's a typo and should say "Same, or just a bit lower".
You can shoot for as much as equal compression as long as you get your front axle weighed to be sure it's not overloaded.
In your case, if stock front height eliminates the pull, you're good to go.
Did removing the washer make any difference is the trailer being level? If it's noticable, raise the ball 1 notch.
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller