Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-06-2016, 01:25 PM   #11
Coachman 312BHDS
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern Missouri - Ozarks
Posts: 203
Right - they are probably all forged with different finishes but the quality seems to vary widely with so much import stuff available. The name brand raw heat treated balls can get a bit pricy.

Originally Posted by CJ2 View Post
He's most likely seeing the substrate that the chrome was applied to. Chrome doesn't stick to steel very well, so plating involves a coat of copper then nickel before the chrome.

2016 Coachmen Freedom Express Liberty Edition 312BHDS (37')
2014 F150 Lariat 3.5 V6 Eco Screw max tow - Century hard cap - Husky Centerline TS WDH
tbln930 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 01:30 PM   #12
Just A Member
EDABEUT's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Flushing, Michigan
Posts: 162
Yes check your ball. Make sure it is rated for the weight you are pulling. If I remember correctly chrome plated balls are only good for 6000 lbs. Mine is rated for 10000 lbs. and is not plated. Not sure what the highest rated
2 1/4 inch ball you can get is.

Ed & Brenda
2015 Coachman Freedom Express
Liberty Edition 297RLDS
2013 Silverado 1500 4x4 6.2L Max Tow
EDABEUT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 01:36 PM   #13
Just A Member
EDABEUT's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Flushing, Michigan
Posts: 162
Just checked e-trailer wow - had no idea 30,000 lbs

Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	109.4 KB
ID:	122268
Ed & Brenda
2015 Coachman Freedom Express
Liberty Edition 297RLDS
2013 Silverado 1500 4x4 6.2L Max Tow
EDABEUT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 01:41 PM   #14
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 23,881
Originally Posted by tbln930 View Post
You're scaring us with a brass loiking ball. Brass is relatively soft. Pkease pist a picture but i highly suspect you need to invest in a higher-end ball.
Brass is the base metal used to coat steel before chroming.
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 02:28 PM   #15
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 8

Originally Posted by lugoismad View Post
I do not understand why people are hesitant to grease their hitch ball.

Over on, a boating forum, there are HUGE arguments about it.

This is a metal on metal moving joint - Of COURSE it needs to be greased.

Don't be shy, or only give it a little silicone grease. Before every trip, I take a can of wheel bearing grease, flip it upside down and put my hitch ball in it. Get that thing covered!
I use teflon ball grease expensive but no sign of wear
thoremilly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 02:53 PM   #16
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by bbcutright View Post
I hope this is the right place to ask this question if not let me know.
We made our first long trip that took about three weeks and about 3,000 miles from Al to Penn last month. About 3/4 through the trip I noticed the hitch making noises that it never made before. When we stopped and set up I inspected the ball and it seemed to be wearing some with visible signs of brass showing through the chrome ball. I looked under the hitch where the ball rides and it seems to be wearing a grove in the back side of the hitch. I kept it lubed with silicone the rest of the trip and that seemed to help but it continued to make noise after a long day. Any ideas What would caused this and how should it be fixed or avoided or is this normal wear and tear? (as in tearing it up).......
The first thing that I would verify is the ball-mount spring bar angle is correct for your loaded combination. If it's wearing like you say it is you have an interference angle problem when coupled. You need to correct that right away. As for lubricant, I use molybdenum disulphide grease. Worried about getting grease on your pants? Cover the ball with sliced tennis ball.
D W is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 03:23 PM   #17
moff34's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Reese Ball Lube

I keep a jar of Reese Ball Lube in my "camping stuff" toolbox which goes in the bed of the truck on every trip. Every time I hook up the ball gets lubed with an even covering. When not hitched, I put a rubber cap over the ball to keep the lube from getting on everything. You can get both on Amazon
moff34 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 06:12 PM   #18
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 102
I'm on a 4-5 month trip holding up here Nashville waiting out Matthew before heading home to South Florida. About 2 weeks ago in Michigan I heard a clunking noise. Upon inspection I discovered the ball nut was coming unscrewed. Kinda freaked me out what could have happened. I found out I didn't have a 1 7/8" socket but was able tighten it up with channel locks. Since the bolt threads were somewhat chewed up so I when to a hitch shop and had it replaced with a new one. So word to the wise is to check this nut but all your nuts. LOL. But seriously could have been a dangerous mess.
robbdrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 08:56 PM   #19
Senior Member
ov845's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 297
Originally Posted by billb800si View Post
By reading some of the replies we don't want the O.P. to think that all metal to metal surfaces should be greased. If you are using a weight distribution type hitch that has swaybars that ride on cams or a L-bracket DO NOT grease those areas. You need friction for the sway bars to operate properly.
Happy trails,

Our WDH requires greasing the "L" brackets where the bars sit on.

Happy Camping!

2012 Ram 1500 Crew Cab 5'7" Bed
4 X 4 Engine 5.7L Hemi Gear 3.92
Airlift 1000
2015 2809W Windjammer (Diamond Package)
Husky Centerline WDH
ov845 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2016, 09:18 PM   #20
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 172
What I do with my balls (no pun intended) is, I install them, crank the nut down with an impact wrench (the nut is against a lockwasher) and then I take my wire welder and put a weld spot or 2 between the threads and the nut.

If you have to remove the ball, you can still break the nut free, but it won't come loose by itself.

SidecarFlip is online now   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:34 PM.