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Old 10-07-2016, 06:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
A tennis ball works better. It's fuzzy so you can grip it and most come in dayglow colors so you can see it when you drop it under your unit in the grass...
Tight fit for a tennis ball which is only about 2.6" dia.

BTW bbcutright, just grease the ball and the socket and go on your way.
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:11 PM   #32
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Looks to me like there is some stick and slip issues going on in there..
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Old 10-08-2016, 04:01 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
Maybe it's time to start...

Lets put it this way... On a class 8 tractor trailer, every 5th wheel is either greased or has a Teflon insert to mitigate the sliding friction wear and seizing under load, plus it allows the trailer to track properly.. SOP in the truck world.
I drive truck and my trailer is not very often unhooked. that 5th wheel gets dry and needs greased. it's a scary thing when the trailer starts steering the truck instead of the other way around!
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:32 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
A tennis ball works better. It's fuzzy so you can grip it and most come in dayglow colors so you can see it when you drop it under your unit in the grass...
Right ON !!!
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:17 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by lugoismad View Post
I do not understand why people are hesitant to grease their hitch ball.



Over on TheHullTruth.com, a boating forum, there are HUGE arguments about it.



This is a metal on metal moving joint - Of COURSE it needs to be greased.



Don't be shy, or only give it a little silicone grease. Before every trip, I take a can of wheel bearing grease, flip it upside down and put my hitch ball in it. Get that thing covered!


^^^Thus X1000. I will never understand why people have a hard time grasping the concept of lubricating a metal-on-metal joint.

The pinnacle of it all sorts s when someone notices wear from grinding... then wonder if they should lube.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:21 AM   #36
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TT Hitch Ball wear

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Originally Posted by billb800si View Post
By reading some of the replies we don't want the O.P. to think that all metal to metal surfaces should be greased. If you are using a weight distribution type hitch that has swaybars that ride on cams or a L-bracket DO NOT grease those areas. You need friction for the sway bars to operate properly.
Happy trails,


Good point.

I read plenty of guys recommend greasing their anti-sway friction points to quiet them down. That is absurd. Any wear those pieces have is just the cost of doing business. Friction is what makes them work.

To clarify, don't lube the points designed for anti-sway... but do lube the bar connection points into the ball mount unless the system states otherwise. You have to read the manual if you don't understand the different points and their purpose.


For the ball and coupler, yes lube them good!
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:58 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by 325BH View Post
Good point.

I read plenty of guys recommend greasing their anti-sway friction points to quiet them down. That is absurd. Any wear those pieces have is just the cost of doing business. Friction is what makes them work.

To clarify, don't lube the points designed for anti-sway... but do lube the bar connection points into the ball mount unless the system states otherwise. You have to read the manual if you don't understand the different points and their purpose.


For the ball and coupler, yes lube them good!
Not sure what you're saying. The sockets are friction points and should be greased (any place where two parts move against each other is a friction point). From page 23 of the Equalizer Owner's Manual:

The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and
well lubricated with a good quality multi‑purpose or bearing grease. These
are the surfaces where the arm sockets rub against the top and bottom plates of the head. See Figure 23. We recommend Equal-i-zer high performance lubricant.

They should be lubricated before each trip. Check for damage or abnormal
wear at the beginning of each towing day and replace if necessary.
Clean dirt and road grit from all friction surfaces regularly.


See here also:

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/blog/h...l-i-zer-hitch/

You can also get these for the L-brackets:

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Old 10-08-2016, 08:10 PM   #38
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Hitch Ball and Coupler

To get back to the OP's original post, thanks for the pictures. I think you need to clean up the ball and coupler with emery cloth (Dremel Tool) to remove any burs then coat it well with a good quality waterproof grease form now on. Remember to keep the sand and dirt out. I wipe mine clean after every trip and start fresh.

Follow the WD Hitch directions for lubricating it.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT. By design, a WDH places a large load between the ball and coupler, much more than the tong weight alone.
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:14 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 325BH View Post
^^^Thus X1000. I will never understand why people have a hard time grasping the concept of lubricating a metal-on-metal joint.

The pinnacle of it all sorts s when someone notices wear from grinding... then wonder if they should lube.
Maybe it's ignorance to be honest. That's the beauty of this forum, and any other for that matter. The wealth of info that I run into is amazing. In the short amount of time that I've had my TT, I've learned a ton of info from here. So, I believe most people, just to give them the benefit of doubt, are truly ignorant to most of this info. While others are just too proud to admit it or just think that they know it all would be the remaining. Just my opinion. Thanks for the info though. Need to go out and grease my ball now. Really, I do. Thanks again.
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