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Old 10-24-2015, 09:29 AM   #21
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Guess I'll have to 'chip up', just to show you what 'ol Barney' can do.....been to a tractor pull lately?
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Old 10-24-2015, 09:31 AM   #22
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There is a OC west style Ram here. Sounds the same noisy oil burner. I think it just the age and time they didn't care as much about these things with a work truck.
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Old 10-24-2015, 09:32 AM   #23
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As Turns would say, Sweeeeet!
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Old 10-24-2015, 09:35 AM   #24
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I would say Saaaaweeet! Lol
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Old 10-24-2015, 09:38 AM   #25
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LLY? Glad I got rid of mine 7 years ago after overheating for the fourth or fifth time with GMs refusal to acknowledge any problem. Yea there was a supposed cure, but,by that time I had lost all faith in GM. Two bad ones in a row was enough. Good luck with your repairs
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Old 10-24-2015, 09:42 AM   #26
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My lmm is tuned and sitting @ 150k on the digital Rollin aroundy thing.
I'd check ebay for low mileage units.

Reman llys are in the 8k range with warranty
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Old 10-24-2015, 09:46 AM   #27
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Just talked to a guy last night that got a 6.0 ford say it is the hardest thing to get started but once it starts runs ok not great it is one of the harley edition truck but has some wiring problems tail lights dont work now the mechanic say motor needs new injectors and about 4,000 worh of motor work
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Old 10-24-2015, 10:09 AM   #28
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Just find it really hard to understand today's prices for auto type repairs.... was in the trans business for 35 years, and nothing I see in today's o/h kits costs what their gett'n... electronic solenoids, speed sensors and the like, all can be had for under $100.00....labor, has gone out of sight as every one wants to charge big bucks for diagnosis, which was part of just doing the job.....shops should have some responsibility to purchase their own dia. equipment, part of being in business.
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Old 10-24-2015, 04:45 PM   #29
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Black is fuel, white is water....head gskt, crack.

White smoke isn't always water. Retarded timing can also cause it. And some diesels will blow white smoke when it is doing a regen.

To the OP......

Did they tell you why it was going to be $7k? A friend of mine just replaced his heads, head gaskets, and ARP studs. The total bill was less than $4k.

Also, when going back together, you need to install an LBZ turbo mouthpiece. Your heads are most likely cracked because it has been overheated before. The factory LLY mouthpiece was choked down and would cause the LLY's to overheat.

Do you have aftermarket gauges? If not, I would highly recommend you get some. IMO the Edge CTS2 is the best one on the market. The factory temp gauge on these trucks aren't very accurate. I know mine is off by 25 degrees. The CTS2 will show you exact temps.


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Old 10-24-2015, 06:49 PM   #30
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White smoke isn't always water. Retarded timing can also cause it. And some diesels will blow white smoke when it is doing a regen.

To the OP......

Did they tell you why it was going to be $7k? A friend of mine just replaced his heads, head gaskets, and ARP studs. The total bill was less than $4k.

Also, when going back together, you need to install an LBZ turbo mouthpiece. Your heads are most likely cracked because it has been overheated before. The factory LLY mouthpiece was choked down and would cause the LLY's to overheat.

Do you have aftermarket gauges? If not, I would highly recommend you get some. IMO the Edge CTS2 is the best one on the market. The factory temp gauge on these trucks aren't very accurate. I know mine is off by 25 degrees. The CTS2 will show you exact temps.


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thanks everyone for the responses.

4 grand would be about right for what you listed. my original estimate was about 4600 due to opting to upgrade a couple other weak factory items with replacements. but then I ran into a couple other issues and some may-as-wells... trans cooler fitting disintegrated when taking it apart, replacement lines about 360. power steering hoses leaking, may as well replace that, another 300-something. 125k miles, may as well do new injectors while it's apart. sent heads to machine shop to get them checked, both cracked but repairable, 500 each.


I do not have aftermarket gauges, just the stock factory in the dash... neither the engine temp nor the turbo temp have ever registered anything over normal. I have aftermarket exhaust and k&n filter on it but that's all... no chips or anything. I do tow 10k lb trailers for my business, but that should not stress it that much. I don't abuse the truck but I bought it used tho and I don't know how it was treated in it's previous life, although it was owned by a horse farm and their trailers aren't that heave. It was in great shape and didn't look abused. I take care of my vehicles and it's been maintained since I have owned it. I am getting over my initial shock. Hopefully doing these repairs will ensure me many happy, carefree miles in the future...
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Old 10-24-2015, 07:38 PM   #31
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Here is some reading for you if you are bored.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=28752

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=115921

Pulling a 10k lbs trailer will definitely overheat an LLY engine with a stock mouthpiece. You said your temp gauge always reads normal, what is normal? When I am towing my 8k lb TT my factory gauge will read 210 degrees when pulling a hill, while my CTS is reading 232 degrees.

The only reason I am telling you all this is so you don't have the same problem again. The LLY's are very famous for overheating, and heads don't just crack. You most likely overheated it pulling a 10k trailer and didn't even know it.


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Old 10-24-2015, 08:44 PM   #32
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The very first mod I made to my 2013 LML was a Bullydog cold air intake system and a 5" exhaust system. I have the Bullydog tuner that gives me the temp of everything under the hood supported by the OBD plug and that's a lot of different engine/transmission temps, turbo boost pressure and diagnostics out the wazoo. The BD tells me the TRUE readouts when the dash gauges don't even wiggle.
I saw the tranny temp go to 215 hauling in the Blue Ridge Parkway up 14* grades. Scared me as I didn't know what the limits were. Made a quick stop and looked them up. No big deal, not even close.
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:33 AM   #33
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Just find it really hard to understand today's prices for auto type repairs.... was in the trans business for 35 years, and nothing I see in today's o/h kits costs what their gett'n... electronic solenoids, speed sensors and the like, all can be had for under $100.00....labor, has gone out of sight as every one wants to charge big bucks for diagnosis, which was part of just doing the job.....shops should have some responsibility to purchase their own dia. equipment, part of being in business.
I agree there, Ford Charged me $125.00 to put my truck on the computer, the computer took it through it's process Such as raising the rpm and all kinda of other things as it measured everything. All I asked was if my glow plug was working. Nowadays you pay for them to open the hood. After they got done and said everything is within Ford spec's. They already were going to hit me up for a trans flush and new fluid, oil change and filter and two fuel filters to the tune of over $300.00 bucks, they could have put it on there computer for free....That's the life we live in nowadays.....
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:39 AM   #34
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I agree there, Ford Charged me $125.00 to put my truck on the computer, the computer took it through it's process Such as raising the rpm and all kinda of other things as it measured everything. All I asked was if my glow plug was working. Nowadays you pay for them to open the hood. After they got done and said everything is within Ford spec's. They already were going to hit me up for a trans flush and new fluid, oil change and filter and two fuel filters to the tune of over $300.00 bucks, they could have put it on there computer for free....That's the life we live in nowadays.....

You don't work for free, why should I ?
I have about $50k in tools.
Were they free? If someone is on your truck, they should be getting paid for it.....


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Old 10-25-2015, 08:52 AM   #35
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You choose the business....if you want to work on cars, buy your own tools.....I did, and used the profit I made to buy more.....
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Old 10-25-2015, 09:02 AM   #36
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You choose the business....if you want to work on cars, buy your own tools.....I did, and used the profit I made to buy more.....

The profit you made while getting paid for doing your job, right?



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Old 10-25-2015, 09:26 AM   #37
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You don't work for free, why should I ?
I have about $50k in tools.
Were they free? If someone is on your truck, they should be getting paid for it.....


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They did get paid for it, I shouldn't have to pay more for them to do what I asked to begin with after they quoted a price to check everything. I could care less if Ford put it on there computer, they were told to check everything and make sure it was running to spec. If they knew they had to put on the computer to do that and that what they charge then they should have been up front about it. "Good Business Practice"..
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Old 10-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #38
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When I started into business I had an 8 to5 and worked eves and weekends here in my driveway. We had flat-rate labor manuals and suggested times that that operation should take...if you could beat the labor time, you made money. The trick was to do a proper job with no come-backs, charge a fair price.....because shops had their overhead to deal with, they had to charge more, so at $30.00 an hour, I stayed busy, and as time went on, got to busy here to have an 8 to 5. Next came a shop to support being able to work year 'round. All profits from labor made went back into tools to be able to take on more types of work.....at the same $30.00 an hour. After all, I was work'n on work'n folks stuff, and didn't feel they deserved to be ripped off. So I guess what I'm say'n, is if you want the job, tool up on your own...and use the profits from your labor to do just that...after all, I don't get to take the leads off your scope with me when I leave your shop, even-thou I just paid for 'em.
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Old 10-25-2015, 12:08 PM   #39
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I know a lot of people with a Ford 6.0 and never had a problem they maintained them and didn't add chips and C@@p. If I had to replace my 6.0 I would do it then to buy a new truck except maybe the new 2016 F-250. Once again people lump all together no matter what. Just like RV's some never have a real problem and some are plagued with them. What a joke just had LOL.Thanks for my morning chuckle, HAVE you ever owned one?...
nope and i won't ever ......... for those like yourself that have had good luck then great and i hope you continue to! your are in the minority of owners. they make good power when they are running good. they have waaaaay to many design flaws imo and i have seen so many of flaws to own one. if i had to choose 1 reason out of say 16 lol it would be the fact that they removed 40% of the head bolts vs the 7.3 , this is the stem of there head gasket failure issues. they know this was a huge issue which is why they put them back on the 6.7! i have only owned 7.3 diesels and there isn't anything i can 't fix on them myself.
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Old 10-25-2015, 12:24 PM   #40
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thanks everyone for the responses.

4 grand would be about right for what you listed. my original estimate was about 4600 due to opting to upgrade a couple other weak factory items with replacements. but then I ran into a couple other issues and some may-as-wells... trans cooler fitting disintegrated when taking it apart, replacement lines about 360. power steering hoses leaking, may as well replace that, another 300-something. 125k miles, may as well do new injectors while it's apart. sent heads to machine shop to get them checked, both cracked but repairable, 500 each.


I do not have aftermarket gauges, just the stock factory in the dash... neither the engine temp nor the turbo temp have ever registered anything over normal. I have aftermarket exhaust and k&n filter on it but that's all... no chips or anything. I do tow 10k lb trailers for my business, but that should not stress it that much. I don't abuse the truck but I bought it used tho and I don't know how it was treated in it's previous life, although it was owned by a horse farm and their trailers aren't that heave. It was in great shape and didn't look abused. I take care of my vehicles and it's been maintained since I have owned it. I am getting over my initial shock. Hopefully doing these repairs will ensure me many happy, carefree miles in the future...
the stock trailer itself isn't that heavy but add 3 or 4 horses or 8 to 10 1200 lb steer and it is very heavy! 90% of my family are ranchers and farmers. trucks get worked very hard. i do hope you have many happy carefree miles in the future though cause break downs are no fun.
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