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Old 08-02-2012, 07:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by kandl View Post

That's a very good question. You have these wheels?
That is a very good question. The rims should be stamped with their maximum PSI. If you have all rubber stems you could very well be in trouble (low certified PSI rating - again a problem with SUV tires).

Replacing the stems with all steel or Brass shaft 100 PSI stems will allow higher pressures that the max 65 PSI rubber ones. The shoulders of your rims may not be designed to retain the tire at 80 PSI so you should have them checked by asking the manufacturer of the rims.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:55 AM   #12
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You know, I go to garages and RV places to get everything done right and it seems as if no one has a clue as to what is what.
I am NOT an engineer or a mechanic. I am a dental hygienist and I know my job. I find all of this overwhelming and it looks like I cannot even trust the professionals (mechanics and RV techs) do know their own job.
Just about to leave for a trip and trying to decide tire pressure now. Of course, it's rubber stem valves. Why would the Dodge garage even bother changing them to steel when they didnt have a clue about what pressure I should put in them for towing? All they told me was 35 psi
What a joke!
Anyways. Should I put 50, 55 or 60?
Sorry about the rant
Brigitte
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:11 AM   #13
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I have BFGoodrich Rugged Trail T/A -LT265/70R17/E. I tow with 60 in the front and 70 in the back. I try to stick to whats on the sticker in the door.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boubou View Post
You know, I go to garages and RV places to get everything done right and it seems as if no one has a clue as to what is what.
I am NOT an engineer or a mechanic. I am a dental hygienist and I know my job. I find all of this overwhelming and it looks like I cannot even trust the professionals (mechanics and RV techs) do know their own job.
Just about to leave for a trip and trying to decide tire pressure now. Of course, it's rubber stem valves. Why would the Dodge garage even bother changing them to steel when they didnt have a clue about what pressure I should put in them for towing? All they told me was 35 psi
What a joke!
Anyways. Should I put 50, 55 or 60?
Sorry about the rant
Brigitte
I believe you would still be safe with 55 PSI. That should keep the tires inflated and retained on the rim shoulder should you hit something on the highway; yet stay below the max rating on your stems.

You should also take the time once you are loaded to get a good weight check for the truck and camper. Many good threads here on how to do that.

Just remember you will need 2 weighs with a travel trailer and 3 weighs if you use a travel trailer with a Weight Distributing Hitch.

5th Wheel (2 weighs):

1) Truck (alone with all people, hitch, full gas, and gear aboard) - Front axle; Rear axle weights (add together for total weight)

2) Hitched (truck exactly as above plus connected camper) - Front axle; Rear Axle; Camper axles

(add all 3 together for combined weight)
(add front and rear together for loaded truck weight)
(subtract "alone" truck weight form "hitched" truck weight for pin weight)
(Add pin weight to camper axle weigh(s) for total camper weight)

Travel Trailer (3 weighs):

1) Truck (alone with all people, hitch, full gas, and gear aboard) - Front axle; Rear axle weights (add together for total weight)

2) Hitched (truck exactly as above plus connected camper WITHOUT WD bars connected) - Front axle; Rear Axle; Camper axles

(add all 3 together for combined weight)
(add front and rear together for loaded truck weight)
(subtract "alone" truck weight form "hitched" truck weight for true tongue weight)
(Add true tongue weight to camper axle weigh(s) for total camper weight)

3) 2) Hitched (truck exactly as above plus connected camper WITH WD bars connected) - Front axle; Rear Axle; Camper axles

(Compare "distributed axle loads" to max axle ratings to be sure front or camper axles have not been overloaded by using the WD links/settings you chose)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Weigh Your RV - Bridgestone.pdf (447.2 KB, 9 views)
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:13 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mike101 View Post
I have BFGoodrich Rugged Trail T/A -LT265/70R17/E. I tow with 60 in the front and 70 in the back. I try to stick to whats on the sticker in the door.
This will be a problem for her since there are E rated replacement truck tires on her 1500. The OEM (door sticker) tires were P rated SUV tires.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:15 AM   #16
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Thank you.
All this is a huge leaning curve. I wonder how many people actually bother to check all
Of that and their tires
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:19 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by boubou View Post
All this is a huge leaning curve. I wonder how many people actually bother to check all of that and their tires
You see them wrecked or sidelined changing tires all the time...

And yes it is, but totally worth the effort.

I forgot to add that most scales charge for the first weigh (about 10 dollars US) and only a buck a weigh for subsequent weights within 24 hours.

If you plan correctly even with a travel trailer, you can do it in one visit and two passes across the scales by doing the weighs in reverse and then dropping the camper in the lot to get the truck alone.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:21 AM   #18
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I want a 3/4 ton
Then no more wondering
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2010 Ram 1500 HEMI with integrated brake controller, tow mirrors and Michelins LTX/AT2 275/65R20 max load: 3750 lbs. @ 80 psi but we keep them 50-55 psi
Superglide 2700
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:28 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by boubou View Post
I want a 3/4 ton
Then no more wondering
Totally not true.
My 3/4 ton diesel has less available payload (after loading) than some new 1/2 tons. You have to get on the scales to find out.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:31 AM   #20
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Wish the RV places were totally and completely reliable and trustworthy
One stop shop and drive out with camper knowing it's safe
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2010 Ram 1500 HEMI with integrated brake controller, tow mirrors and Michelins LTX/AT2 275/65R20 max load: 3750 lbs. @ 80 psi but we keep them 50-55 psi
Superglide 2700
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