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Old 07-04-2013, 09:25 AM   #21
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Dave-That site you directed me too sounds a lot more realistic for 2500suburban towing number. I think the vin lookup at the dealership telling me so low had to be inaccurate.

Batts-toy- Yes it was especially squirmy towing with the Tahoe considering my travel travel was twice the size of my tow vehicle. I had white knuckles at all times pulling it! That why this past year we have camped local and stayed off the highways. Yes I use the weight dis. bar and anti-sway. Sway bar really helps without it I would be in trouble. Does the double sway bar make much of a difference? It the "friction" type sway bar....
Thanks,
for all the help, I am new to the whole camping thing- I married into a camping family, and after they took me a few times, I said I needed a travel trailer.
I have been a boater my entire life, but its much easier to pull a 20' boat than a 28' travel trailer
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:27 AM   #22
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Believe it or not I am a class A cdl driver for a living, and WITHOUT THE RIGHT TOW VEHICLE AND SET-UP, towing travel trailers is more challenging than driving class A trucks and trailers!
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:07 PM   #23
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I am also Class A cdl and my dad, uncles and grandfather before me were also but I have never driven for a living and your right TT and RV use is totally different.

I don't know that the second sway bar is really doing a lot but when I bought the first one at Harbor Freight is showed a max spec of 6,000# limit and since I new I was over 7,000# I went with the 2, my WDH had both places for the small ball already so it was no big deal to set the second one on there. Some WDH units have the sway control built into them and a add on sway control such as the friction unit is not needed so it depends on what you have.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:32 PM   #24
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Let me clarify after I read my own typing. I had the WDH and one sway bar already used with the 18' TT before I bought the 26' TBSS. Upon recognizing the weight of the TBSS I went and got the 2nd sway bar.
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:11 PM   #25
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batts-toys
Yea I have the standard weight distrib.
The addition of the second anti sway doesn't affect the turning at all?
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:36 PM   #26
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You can get them too tight, I for one have not had a problem with turning they are adjustable and come with the instruction sheet. The only real issue for some is a ball has to be mounted on the tongue of the TT for each sway bar which means drill and bolt or weld it/them on. I welded mine (welding creates some excitement on the forum as people are concerned about voiding the frame warranty). Another issue would be if the ball spacing distance isn't correct you can set yourself up to have the slide either bottom out or come apart during the turn, just have to install it correctly then shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:14 PM   #27
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to do with small SUVs.
I'm confused? 6.0L 2500 Suburban - small SUV?

Nm
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:28 PM   #28
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Here's your owners manual: http://www.vita-motors.ru/cars/chevr...ahoeGMT800.pdf

See pg 4-66; you're probably at 7400 lbs.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:32 PM   #29
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I'm confused? 6.0L 2500 Suburban - small SUV?

Nm
To some, anything less than a 1-1/2T is small.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:46 PM   #30
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Here's your owners manual: http://www.vita-motors.ru/cars/chevr...ahoeGMT800.pdf

See pg 4-66; you're probably at 7400 lbs.
Interesting...the Trailer Life guide list doesn't specify rear end ratio...they just list the max which is for a 4.10 ratio.

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Old 07-04-2013, 04:06 PM   #31
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Here's your owners manual: http://www.vita-motors.ru/cars/chevr...ahoeGMT800.pdf

See pg 4-66; you're probably at 7400 lbs.
C-2500 (2WD)*6000 V8 3.73 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 9,900 lbs (4 490 kg)
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:47 PM   #32
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I assumed he would get the K-2500 (not a big GM guy, so not sure what the diff is between C & K). The 9,900 is for the 4.10 rear end; he said 3.73.
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:00 PM   #33
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I assumed he would get the K-2500 (not a big GM guy, so not sure what the diff is between C & K). The 9,900 is for the 4.10 rear end; he said 3.73.
Only because I have one. GM C is 2WD K is 4WD ;-)
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #34
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GM C is 2WD K is 4WD ;-)
I see.

I've just bought a 2009 Silverado 1500 4x4, so I guess it's a K? But the same towing table in MY owner's manual (which is 10 pages long, BTW!!), never says C or K.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:21 PM   #35
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so back to question A. The potential vehicle I am looking at is a 2005 Chevrolet suburban K 2500 4X4 6.0 motor with 3.73 rear end. Now look like towing capacity is ONLY 7,600.... Will this handle my empty weight #5880 pound travel trailer? loaded weight probably around #6500?
How can it even be possible my 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe 1500 4x4 3.73 towing capacity be all the way at #7400 when this 2500 suburban is ONLY 7600? Going from a 1500 to a 2500 with a 6.0 versus a 5.3 and I can only tow #200 more pounds?
This makes no sense again....
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:29 PM   #36
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Nope it doesn't, but that's the way it is.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:38 AM   #37
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I see.

I've just bought a 2009 Silverado 1500 4x4, so I guess it's a K? But the same towing table in MY owner's manual (which is 10 pages long, BTW!!), never says C or K.
Its the identifying letter in the vin # for the option. ie-GCEC.........OR GCEK.............Those are the 2 most common beginning digits on gm vehicle (truck type-not car) vin# (at least since the '90s) but the c & k was used for decades before that as an identifier.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:51 AM   #38
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so back to question A. The potential vehicle I am looking at is a 2005 Chevrolet suburban K 2500 4X4 6.0 motor with 3.73 rear end. Now look like towing capacity is ONLY 7,600.... Will this handle my empty weight #5880 pound travel trailer? loaded weight probably around #6500?
How can it even be possible my 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe 1500 4x4 3.73 towing capacity be all the way at #7400 when this 2500 suburban is ONLY 7600? Going from a 1500 to a 2500 with a 6.0 versus a 5.3 and I can only tow #200 more pounds?
This makes no sense again....
We also have a tahoe same setup as yours. No way I would want to pull that much weight with one. Our boat weighing less than 4,000lb seems to be too much for it sometimes. Plus they (1/2 ton suburbans too) really are pushing the limit drivetrain wise. They are sooo heavy any kind of trailer puts a serious strain on them. Ask a transmission guy, I did ours at work and he said they just won't hold up (or will get hot, and/or puke fluid and greatly shorten thier life).
I would feel much better with you having the 2500. Much better drivetrain under them!
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:37 AM   #39
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jabres... Your question intrigued me as well. People often look to 3/4 models for higher payload and tow ratings. Granted this is an SUV not a pickup but 7600 does sounds almost unbelievably low. I talked to a GM friend of mine briefly and he directed me here...

2005 Suburban 2500 LS 2WD--tow rating - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

Even the Chevy fans agree with your numbers. I'd say the reason for the 100# difference between your numbers and theirs is likely 2WD vs. 4WD. I don't know this to be a fact, just an educated guess. It's on the internet so it has to be true! Bottom line and the reason for my post was this. NEVER and I mean NEVER talk to a dealership regarding towing capacities. In the past 8 years I've talked to 6 car dealerships and 3 RV dealerships about ratings. Only one ( a small RV dealership that specialized in popups and ultralite's was honest. The rest gave outrageously inflated numbers. I went with my dad 8 years ago when he brought his RAM. They tried to convince us that a 1/2-ton 4.7L w/ 3.55s could pull something like 9,200lbs! When I bought my pickup I all but punched the Chevy salesman. He kept saying "It's a Silvarado, it's pull anything." Their own books showed the towing capacity at somewhere around 4500lbs. And I had to show him that. (Before anyone asks, this was 2010 and Chevy was in the midst of their "best in class fuel economy gimik. This truck had the lowest gear ratio I've ever seen. Could be wrong but I think it was less than 3.31.) Anyway I've gotten a little carried away here, don't be afraid to pass up a "good deal" if it doesn't suit your needs. There will be other rigs That said according to what you've provided it sounds like your good as long as you keep the weight of passengers and cargo in the truck under 1000lbs. That said I haven't checked your GVWR either so you'll want to double check that first. The only thing is this really doesn't leave you a lot of wiggle room for future endeavors.
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:15 AM   #40
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Me and my 2 friends all bought the same trailer a few years ago a 32' which I know is bigger and a little heavier but I had 08 f150 rated at 9600, one friend had 2500 suburban with 6.0 and one had 2500 suburban with 8.1. My friend with the 6.0 and I had to sell trailers after first year because it was uncomfortable towing. My friend with 8.1 still has his but says he can only go 64 max speed. After years of the single sway bar a bought the Reese dual cam knowing my trailer was at the upper limit and WOW what a difference of sway control. I know have a f250 6.8 v10 gas and a 35 fifth toy hauler that tows like a dream but if I ever go back to TT I will make sure I always have the dual cam. It's a huge difference.
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