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Old 09-30-2016, 02:28 PM   #51
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Ok a half ton with 10 ply tires a good weight distribution hitch brake controller can do what he wants.

Why dose this truck 1/2 ton 3/4 ton turn into the same as man's part discussion mines bigger.
All he wanted ro know what to do is upgrade his truck a little
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Old 09-30-2016, 02:40 PM   #52
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Ok a half ton with 10 ply tires a good weight distribution hitch brake controller can do what he wants.

Why dose this truck 1/2 ton 3/4 ton turn into the same as man's part discussion mines bigger.
All he wanted ro know what to do is upgrade his truck a little
+1. And if the budget allows, add air bags or a helper springs and better shocks. Turns a half ton into a MUCH more stable towing platform. I know from experience.
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:03 PM   #53
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Any time a 1/2 T is mentioned, everyone with a bigger truck has to chime in that they can't pull anything but a lawn trailer. They just love to brag about their bigger trucks.
Not so! There are many TTs and a few 5ers that can safely and legally be towed by a 1/2 ton. My 5er cannot be but certainly someone would be foolish enough to do so. They would probably say it did great as well. I have towed with 1/2 tons and SUVs. In the '70s I towed with a 4 door sedan that did a better job than my last Ram 1/2 ton. I suppose some would believe their barber could do just as well taking out their gall bladder as a surgeon too.
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:34 PM   #54
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... I suppose some would believe their barber could do just as well taking out their gall bladder as a surgeon too.
My medical school daughter informed me the other day that at one time barbers *were* our surgeons. So yeah this would be believable

For my money and research pulling a 7714 GVWR bumper tow TT... my 2014 Ford F150 FX4 is a typical car-truck. Ford specs it on the low end of their GVWR range. However Ford did offer options for two 500 lb bumps in GVWR in the Max Trailer Tow and Max Payload packages. Digging through the documentation and such the FX4, while it does not state as such, does include all the content of the Max Trailer Tow with the exception of the two mirrors. It has the hitch and wiring and trailer brake controller and, most importantly, it has the heavy duty cooling system. So in theory I should have design margin for the first 500 pound step in GVWR (even if not on the sticker and I have no idea why Ford did not put the higher number on the sticker?).

I have weighed my full setup and am within all specs with the exception of the rear GAWR where I miss by a ~200 lbs. I know the Ford Max Payload option bumped the rear springs and shocks and swapped rear end for an increase in rear GAWR. Now that I am aware I have noted some amount of rear bounce and overshoot in the rear bounce. I can do helper springs and some Bilstein shocks and very likely be operationally good.

Or yes I could trade in a truck for $35-40k on a new $60-70k truck. I think I will try a few hundred before I commit to more than I paid for the RV on a new truck.

Heck the whole setup is operating right up against the limits with the 3500 lb axles and load range C trailer tires and everything.
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:49 PM   #55
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I can appreciate the OP asking for help. In this circumstance you are being selfish and putting other peoples live at risk. There's no way you could stop that vehicle in an emergency situation
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Old 09-30-2016, 04:32 PM   #56
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I can appreciate the OP asking for help. In this circumstance you are being selfish and putting other peoples live at risk. There's no way you could stop that vehicle in an emergency situation
This is an inaccurate statement. If someone has the ability and would like to run the numbers for stopping a DRW 1 ton/FW at 30,000 GCVWR with 10 tires on the ground versus an F150/TT at 18,000 GCVWR with 8 tires on the ground I'm sure it would be enlightening.
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Old 09-30-2016, 04:34 PM   #57
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I can appreciate the OP asking for help. In this circumstance you are being selfish and putting other peoples live at risk. There's no way you could stop that vehicle in an emergency situation

Who says anyone could stop it no matter the tow vehicle In an emergency?? Pretty bold statement of you


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Old 09-30-2016, 04:35 PM   #58
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This is an inaccurate statement. If someone has the ability and would like to run the numbers for stopping a DRW 1 ton/FW at 30,000 GCVWR with 10 tires on the ground versus an F150/TT at 18,000 GCVWR with 8 tires on the ground I'm sure it would be enlightening.

Some of these folks wouldn't leave home if they knew


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Old 09-30-2016, 04:43 PM   #59
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Back to the novel concept of being helpful to the OP.

Here's what I have done with the 1/2 ton setup in my sig:

1. Keep the tranny cool. Added extra cooler inline w/factory and a deeper aluminum ribbed pan that adds 3 quarts capacity. Took 20 Deg off towing temps. Oh yeah, get a tranny temp gauge, too.

2. Get load range E rated tires. Get them as close to the original size tire that came on the truck as you can. That will help with wobbles. DO NOT get a larger diameter tire as that will kill your "effective axle ratio" - been there, done that.

3. Heavier tires on the trailer will reduce wobbles, too.

4. Bilsteins or any other shock may improve ride, mine did, but don't increase load capacity.

5. I put some Timbrens on to avoid bottoming out. They do not touch the axle when hitched.

6. Anything you want to do to help the engine inhale/exhale better may help.

And that's really about it.

Since my truck is paid for, I have no plans to upgrade. Not having a payment provides a nice monthly camping budget.
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Old 09-30-2016, 04:56 PM   #60
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Back to the novel concept of being helpful to the OP.

Here's what I have done with the 1/2 ton setup in my sig:

1. Keep the tranny cool. Added extra cooler inline w/factory and a deeper aluminum ribbed pan that adds 3 quarts capacity. Took 20 Deg off towing temps. Oh yeah, get a tranny temp gauge, too.

2. Get load range E rated tires. Get them as close to the original size tire that came on the truck as you can. That will help with wobbles. DO NOT get a larger diameter tire as that will kill your "effective axle ratio" - been there, done that.

3. Heavier tires on the trailer will reduce wobbles, too.

4. Bilsteins or any other shock may improve ride, mine did, but don't increase load capacity.

5. I put some Timbrens on to avoid bottoming out. They do not touch the axle when hitched.

6. Anything you want to do to help the engine inhale/exhale better may help.

And that's really about it.

Since my truck is paid for, I have no plans to upgrade. Not having a payment provides a nice monthly camping budget.
Did the same except I used air bags with onboard compressor instead of Timbrens.
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