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Old 03-11-2011, 07:57 PM   #1
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WD Hitch for new Rockwood

I am all set to buy a new Rockwood 2604 this weekend and need some advise....

I was all set to go with an Equal-i-zer WD hitch with sway control(based on general reading on the forums), and the sales guy threw in the Reese DC unit at a great package price. Before I ink the deal, I would like to know what you guys think would be the best WD hitch set up, between these two units, for my rig??

Trailer is Rockwood 2604, Dry weigth about 5800#, Tongue wt. 600, GVWR 6600#

TV- 2009 Ford F150, 5.4l screw, 3.73, WB 163, GVW 8200, GCWR 17,000, Max tongue load 1100
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:17 PM   #2
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Guys that have used the Equalizer love the Equalizer(like me) and guys that have the Reese love the Reese. Sounds like they're pretty comparable. I say get the one you can get the best deal on.
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:50 PM   #3
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^^^ That's right.

The Reese DC is want you want if its part of the deal. These two are considered to be fairly equal in their ability to control sway.

FYI - you can get an equal-i-zer for about $425 online and delivered to your house so you will want to compare your deal to that price.
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:53 PM   #4
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toshu,
I've had a Reese DC on my Rockwood since it was new, and I have had no problems. Others here, as noted above, have had the same experience with the Equalizer. I have read, here, that the Equalizer hardware sometimes needs "re-torqued". I have never had to do any of that with my Reese. FWIW.

John
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:09 PM   #5
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toshu,
I've had a Reese DC on my Rockwood since it was new, and I have had no problems. Others here, as noted above, have had the same experience with the Equalizer. I have read, here, that the Equalizer hardware sometimes needs "re-torqued". I have never had to do any of that with my Reese. FWIW.

John
Forgive my ignorance, but what is retorgueing???

I have heard/read that the Reese is easier to connect/disconnect on uneven surfaces.....
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:11 PM   #6
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Using a Torque Wrench to re-tighten, to specs, the hardware that comes with the hitch. Hope that helps.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:26 PM   #7
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check the pricing like stated above and no matter which one you get the tow vehicle and trailer should be level when the hitch is installed or you will get sway at some point -
a good brake controller is needed as well - I have the prodigy - now they are called Prodigy P2 - so far havent had any issues with it

Had my Equalizer installed and the font of the trailer is like 1/4" higher in the front and I get sway at 65 - am in the process of getting a longer frop hitch to put more pressure on the bars to eliminate the sway.
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:36 AM   #8
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Using a Torque Wrench to re-tighten, to specs, the hardware that comes with the hitch. Hope that helps.
thanks for the clarification. I would assume its good practice to check all the "connections" on the rig anyway to make sure nothing has loosened up??
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:48 AM   #9
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BTW

actually, ease of set up, and connecting disconnecting is a concern for me as well. I broke my right leg and left arm last year, so "flexibility and strength" are not where I would like to be...

I am curious what users have to say on that issue from both sides of the aisle?
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:04 PM   #10
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well I can say the first time the Equalizer was setup and trying to push the bars in to attach to the trailer was brutal - I have only disconnected it once and will be re-hooking it up today and will let you know how easy it to re-attach after it has been removed
taking it off was a piece of cake so I am thinking it shouldnt be too hard to put back together especially since some of the piece have been used for the first 200 mile trip amd wore off some of the paint which was the reason why it was so hard to push in. One suggestion is if you get the equalizer - get the wear pads - well worth the $20 if you get the equalizer instead of the Reese
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:49 PM   #11
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I have the Reese DC with the Flat Bars.
If you use the tongue jack to lift the front of the trailer and the back of the TV after you have hooked up, it takes almost zero effort to set the chains on the WD bars. (I don't even use a cheater bar/pipe.) Then just let the tongue jack back down and you are good to go. This technique should work for just about any WD hitch.

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Old 03-12-2011, 01:20 PM   #12
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well I can say the first time the Equalizer was setup and trying to push the bars in to attach to the trailer was brutal - I have only disconnected it once and will be re-hooking it up today and will let you know how easy it to re-attach after it has been removed
taking it off was a piece of cake so I am thinking it shouldnt be too hard to put back together especially since some of the piece have been used for the first 200 mile trip amd wore off some of the paint which was the reason why it was so hard to push in. One suggestion is if you get the equalizer - get the wear pads - well worth the $20 if you get the equalizer instead of the Reese
FYI, the push bars can be a pain, there is a better way. hook the TV ball to the camper, lock it and then jack the trailer up as far as you can, as long as you are level the bars will lift and lay right on the supports with no pressure on them. Lock them in and crank the camper back down as normal and you are good to go. Reverse the process to unhitch and the bars will come off easy as well, jack the trailer up high to relieve the pressure.

BTW, if you are not level this will reduce the pressure and the push bar will be much easier to use.
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:59 PM   #13
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FYI, the push bars can be a pain, there is a better way. hook the TV ball to the camper, lock it and then jack the trailer up as far as you can, as long as you are level the bars will lift and lay right on the supports with no pressure on them. Lock them in and crank the camper back down as normal and you are good to go. Reverse the process to unhitch and the bars will come off easy as well, jack the trailer up high to relieve the pressure.

BTW, if you are not level this will reduce the pressure and the push bar will be much easier to use.
Thank you for the info but I am aware of how to put the bars on - Equalizer also has a video showing what you just said as well - the reason why the bars are tight is because the setup is brand new and was the first time trying to push the bars towards the camper frame was a pain due to being brand new - 2nd time out they werent as bad but still hard to push in but was a little easier then the first time.
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