WD Hitch Shank Length

[jrl95608]

Hi All,


I tow a small 2109 Rockwood behind my 2017 Grand Cherokee. I already cut off a short vertical portion of the shank that was rubbing on the ground when I went into some elevated driveways, but I am also wondering about what appears to me to be the extremely long portion of the shank that goes into my car's receiver. Besides adding extra weight, it also seems like it's length would cause unusual stress. Is there some reason I can't shorten it? Is there an "optimal" distance for the "ball" to be from the back of the tow vehicle. Most of the WDHs I've seen seem to have this long shank. They certainly add extra weight!

[ImTravis]

I’m not the expert on this, but I believe the extra length on the shank is part of how it does the weight distribution. I wouldn’t remove any of that part..

Although I could be wrong.


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[jrl95608]

Originally Posted by ImTravis

I’m not the expert on this, but I believe the extra length on the shank is part of how it does the weight distribution. I wouldn’t remove any of that part..

Although I could be wrong.


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This is what I'm trying to find out. I have just seen a hitch site that apparently sells shanks of different lengths.

[007matman]

Generally speaking you don't want it dragging on the ground and want as short of a shank as possible.

I'm surprised that it's dragging though, typically the shanks are short from the manufacturer.

Can you upload a pic of your setup?

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[jrl95608]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Generally speaking you don't want it dragging on the ground and want as short of a shank as possible.

I'm surprised that it's dragging though, typically the shanks are short from the manufacturer.

Can you upload a pic of your setup?

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I have one of the adjustable ones that you can turn up or down. The Ball height is better when it points down then when it points up, but it was too long pointing down, so I had about 2" cut off and it works fine now. I also think the shank going into the receiver should be short, but most of the WD hitches seem to have long shanks; and they don't go any deeper into the receiver, just keep the ball further from the tow vehicle.

[Dustyhd]

Shorter is better for the shank length. I’ve drilled a new hole in my Equalizer shank, the ball is now 2 inches closer to the TV.

[007matman]

You can drill another hole and get it closer (which may require you to cut off some length as well) or, you could just purchase another shank.

Amazon is a great resource.. I've bought several from them.


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[MillMitch]

I emailed the question to Fastway (Equalizer and E2 hitches) and got this answer in case anyone was curious. Pretty much the answer I expected.


Jun 29 at 9:46 AM

Mitch,
Thanks for the email. That’s a good question. Sometimes people do like the shank to be shorter, but this is something we don’t recommend doing, as we have not tested the hitch with any type of modified shank. Would it work? Probably, but I’m not sure. But it would definitely void any type of warranty claim the customer may have down the road, as our warranty policy would not cover a hitch that has been altered or modified beyond the recommended adjustments.

Thanks,

Jacen Condie

Customer Service Representative

Office 800-478-5578


From: Mitch Miller <yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2018 7:39 AM
To: Fastway Support <fastwaysupport@progressmfg.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RE: question about E2 hitch



Hi guys,

I belong to the Forest River Forums and was reading a discussion regarding shank length (not the rise or drop) on WDH's. Members are obviously talking about their own hitches, but one of the comments was from an Equalizer owner. Intuitively it makes sense to me that the closer the hitch ball is to the tow vehicle, the less stress on the tow vehicle receiver. However, I'm not an engineer and wanted to check with you. I have an E2 hitch and am towing with a Durango - any reason I can't shorten the shank?

thanks,

Mitch

[rockfordroo]

I believe this discussion has split into two separate issues:

1. Shortening the actual length of the shank by cutting off some portion of the end that inserts into the receiver.

2. Shortening the distance from the receiver to the ball by drilling a new pin hole closer to the ball (i.e., shortening the "working length" of the shank.) BTW: If you did this, you could also do #1, as more shank would now extend past the receiver.

With respect to #1, any portion of the shank that extends outside of the square receiver (in "front" of the receiver) could be cut off to lighten the shank. Only the portion of the shank inside the receiver is doing any "work." However, I would not be surprised if the factory would void your warranty.

With respect to #2, I would agree with the factory, in that they would probably void your warranty as you have changed the assumed distance from the ball to the TV, although I would expect their real concern would be if you lengthened the working length of the shank (say, to allow you to fully open your tailgate).

[youroo]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

I believe this discussion has split into two separate issues:

1. Shortening the actual length of the shank by cutting off some portion of the end that inserts into the receiver.

2. Shortening the distance from the receiver to the ball by drilling a new pin hole closer to the ball (i.e., shortening the "working length" of the shank.) BTW: If you did this, you could also do #1, as more shank would now extend past the receiver.

With respect to #1, any portion of the shank that extends outside of the square receiver (in "front" of the receiver) could be cut off to lighten the shank. Only the portion of the shank inside the receiver is doing any "work." However, I would not be surprised if the factory would void your warranty.

With respect to #2, I would agree with the factory, in that they would probably void your warranty as you have changed the assumed distance from the ball to the TV, although I would expect their real concern would be if you lengthened the working length of the shank (say, to allow you to fully open your tailgate).

I am in This Camp! Youroo!!

[007matman]

They are just trying to avoid legal issues that could stem from improper modifications.

I had to purchase a extended shank because the one they included in the kit wasn't long enough. They do warn users to not purchase longer ones than what is required.

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[Dustyhd]

They told me it was fine to drill a new hole.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Dustyhd

They told me it was fine to drill a new hole.

I'm assuming you told them you wanted it shorter. Wonder what the response would have been to make it longer?

[MillMitch]

I'll have to take another look underneath, but i think my shank would hit the spare tire without cutting the back end of the shank off after drilling a new hole. Did you use a drill press to drill the hole? or have it done at a machine shop?

[ard58]

[QUOTE=jrl95608;1854627]Hi All,


I tow a small 2109 Rockwood behind my 2017 Grand Cherokee. I already cut off a short vertical portion of the shank that was rubbing on the ground when I went into some elevated driveways

Most WD hitches I've seen the shank can be turned over.

[Dustyhd]

Originally Posted by MillMitch

I'll have to take another look underneath, but i think my shank would hit the spare tire without cutting the back end of the shank off after drilling a new hole. Did you use a drill press to drill the hole? or have it done at a machine shop?

I used a drill press at my work.

[pdqparalegal1]

Originally Posted by Dustyhd

Shorter is better for the shank length. I’ve drilled a new hole in my Equalizer shank, the ball is now 2 inches closer to the TV.

I did the same thing. A good drill press helps. Start with a .250 pilot hole prior to drilling the final size.
Good luck

[allenb12]

I would like to have mine shorter. However if it was moved a 1/2" I could not open my tailgate.