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Old 08-11-2015, 08:24 AM   #11
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When I set up my equalizer for this particular adjustment to the shims, I used an angle level aka inclinometer. It rides on the flat plane of the ball carrier. Knowing the degree of level of your vehicle and the difference of this flat plane to 90 degrees vertical will give you the offset or tilt of the ball carrier and a couple steps of reassembly will get you to the shims needed. If this is what you are dealing with.
I assume you have activated the latch assy on the TT a couple time to know if it operates smoothly? I've seen that too on a previous TT.

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Old 08-11-2015, 10:34 PM   #12
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Well, it seems as if other are having some type of problem with hitching up to their TT. My truck and WDH were previously used for a different TT and I had no problem with latching/unlatching the coupler. I was in the closed grocery store parking lot because it was the most level surface I could find to do all of this adjusting. Many times when trying to couple up I had the truck in neutral so I could move it just a bit by hand. At one point I even took out the shims and the ping they sit on, then left the two big bolts that go through the hitch assembly loose. I'm thinking that this would allow the hitch to somewhat self-align. It didn't. The one thing that stumps me is the fact that when I removed the ball from the WDH and placed it onto the coupler by hand it latched so easy. I'll play with it another day.

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Old 08-13-2015, 04:54 AM   #13
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I have the same thing with my Roo. It's the yoke type. I found out that the latch needs a bit of help to slide back far enough to open enough for the ball it's maybe 1/16" to move back. I tried all kinds of stuf to get it to work and gave up. Now to latch I pull the latch back then tap it with the heel of my hand then lower it.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:03 AM   #14
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The latch should not have to be beaten !!

My latch will only release when all of the weight is off of the hitch. If it doesn't want to release then, I will pull the truck forward slightly, to get the hitch ball to the front of the cup.

Someone mentioned that they are afraid of damaging the tongue jack by moving forward. If that is the case, block the trailer wheels, get the jack off of the ground before pulling the TV forward.

I presume this is a "given", but make sure the WDH bars are unhooked before trying to release the latch.

Some couplers have an adjustment on how tight the pawls grip the adjustment may help.

Unless the ball tilt is really severe, that should not affect the latch release. The ball tilt is important to the weight distributing, and should not be adjusted just to make the latch easy to release. I have my head assembly tilted back almost to the stop, and I can still get the latch to release with my above statements:

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Old 08-13-2015, 09:20 AM   #15
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Every trailer I've used, I've had to do the pull the truck forward to get the ball to the front of the cup. The tolerances in there have to be pretty tight to make sure it stays on so it seems normal to me to need to do that.

As said before, chock the wheels, pull forward, you should hear a little movement in the ball, then unlatch.

When hooking up I usually position the ball just a tiny bit forward of right under the center of the cup so that when the trailer lowers onto the ball the front of the cup will slide down onto the ball.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:58 AM   #16
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This may be a no brainer but... have you greased the ball and coupling? I agree the pull forward trick does work but I rarely have to do that (and my Stealth is a 2016) and it usually slips right off.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:06 AM   #17
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I have had the same problem, mine seemed to be when latching and un-latching (hooking up and unhooking) only on un-level ground. If my truck and TT were on level ground it is easy but this is hardly ever the case. At my storage spot it is not level, and when I set in place for camping my TT is level but my truck is not. I have to find the "sweet spot", I do not beat it or anything but I do have to shimmy it back and forth a few times. I did take some brake cleaner and a wire brush on the end of my drill and hot the inside of the coupler as well as the ball then I greased them both up. That seemed to help but occasionally I still get the problem but not ear as bad as it was.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:01 PM   #18
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It seems like it sticks or something, just won't go all the way back in the slot. I use the heel of my hand and back it goes.

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