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Old 08-26-2015, 02:13 PM   #11
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Equalizer - noise = BlueOx

Just sayin'
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:41 PM   #12
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New to this forum but not new to camping.

That being said I just installed a Blue Ox Sway Pro to try to control the TW on my Work & Play. I did a no no and didn't get a true tongue weight before hand thinking I knew what it should be. I was not able to get my truck to level out even with a 20K hitch with 2K bars. So I loaded up again yesterday with a full fresh water tank and Cat scaled it and found I have 2360 lbs of tongue weight.

So my lesson to me and others Know what you need ahead of time before buying your hitch.
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Rich View Post
New to this forum but not new to camping.
So my lesson to me and others Know what you need ahead of time before buying your hitch.
That is hard to do if you don't have the RV yet and/or new to this. You have to trust the dealer knows what should be used and is going to guide you to the correct hitch. In my case, they didn't and I had to change to a heavier hitch. The WJ literature says the hitch weight was 860#, ah...cough...bull$#!*. I found it was actually 1,075# before I put a single personal item in it! Then I had to wrangle with Fun Town in Cleburne to get them to refund the cost of the original hitch; still waiting on the refund. I know, the check is in the mail...oh boy.
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:55 PM   #14
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So i'm confused. On a Toy Hauler I know that the frames are generally beefier to support the weight of the cargo, and that there is less empty weight in the back because of the lack of furniture, but where does all the tongue weight come from? Is there some sort of ballast weight in the front?
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:58 PM   #15
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DB, I understand I was in a similar situation in that I believed what the dealer had told me. They had even contacted the factory to verify the TW.


This is the new style 2016 W&P so there is not a lot of data on it.
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:02 PM   #16
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V-Lite

We love our 2012 rig, but be warned you need to replace all the tires with "E" rated tires. We run ours with 80lbs of air and get a better ride. Try to get your dealer to replace them if you can and avoid blow outs. P.S. enjoy your rig, it it is sweet! Jim
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:03 PM   #17
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I'm using a 14K Equalizer
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:34 PM   #18
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We have a 3008 Windjammer which I think is the twin of your trailer and an Equalizer 12k hitch. The L brackets are mounted at the recommended distance back from the hitch ball (32" I think) with no problems. WDH works great with no sway from passing trucks on the interstate.

As others have said I would recommend changing the OEM tires at the first opportunity. The OEM tires have no load safety factor if the trailer is loaded to max GVWR.
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:54 PM   #19
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I use the 14,000 Equalizer 4 point WDH on my V-Lite 30WRLIKS After trying 3 different type hitches this the best. My first V-lite was a disaster towing with what dealer had put on. Now I drive more relaxed and enjoy my trips. Proper mount for bars to brackets is 32 inches. Later RJD
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:26 PM   #20
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Angry Thanks All

To be sure I covered everyone, thanks again. Late last night I started collecting measurements for mounting the frame attachment ends of several hitches. I remember one person saying he could not attach Blue Ox clamp on trunnion device due to proximity to the nose of the box (propane tank enclosure).

I don't want to be left like my last rig and I'm afraid dealer will throw something on there just to get us to leave. My Reese Dual Cam/Straightline was mounted a bit to close to the ball and has been a pain to correct.

You had to be there to see where the set up was made. I didn't know much about it then and trusted them. Not anymore!!!!!!
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