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Old 08-29-2017, 06:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by aceinspp View Post
You believe everything you read on the internet and Looks like you tow a 5er have you ever towed other wise? Later RJD


Sorry. I guess my humor was poorly implied. I'm in your camp on this.
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:21 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by head gamez View Post
For what it is worth, I tow my race car trailer and other friends race car trailers ranging from 7k-10k without a WDH using a heavy duty ball mount. I don't do this too much anymore but have done it lots of times. Travel trailers present a slightly different issue when it comes to sway etc due to the profiles and loading characteristics.

However, given the weight the OP is talking about, I wouldn't have issues.... especially if he has done it with no sway or ill handling.
Yes this is true. Only the person towing knows how his trailer handles with what equipment he uses or does not use. Later RJD
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:05 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Svtyone View Post
Ok since we're on the talk of wdh.my dealer advised me to remove my sway bar when backing into campsites and such. Should I also remove the bars or leave them connected the reason I ask is where I park I have to basically jackknife the trailer and was thinking that cant be good for the wdh
2 separate things here:
1. If you use a separate friction sway controller (not integrated into the WDH system), do you have to remove the sway controller when backing up?
Answer: It depends.
The stated reason for removing is so you don't damage anything. Simply backing up, even while maneuvering will not damage anything. The forces involved are the same in reverse and forward. The only problem is if you jackknife severely, you could bottom out the "male" portion of the controller in the main female housing. At that point, it becomes like a solid bar, and if you continue the maneuver, you will bend the controller itself, some part of the hitch head, or something on the trailer.
So, you should either:
a. Know the limits on either side, and do not exceed them with the sway controller in place, or,
b. Remove it if you don't want to take a chance.
Note also that this is not a problem for sway control built into a WDH. There are no such limits, that I know of.

2. Should you remove the WDH bars when backing into a site.
Again, simply backing up and maneuvering is not a problem. But I think the question is really, "If my final location for unhitching has the truck at a severe angle to the trailer, is it OK to unhitch in that situation, or should I have removed the bars sooner.".

I have had this situation before, and in the end, I always remove the bars when I get to the final position, not before.
a. If I remove them sooner, there is a good chance that the unlevel terrain could have me dragging and possibly damaging my jack or something else.
b. While I do notice that the bars are unevenly loaded when at an extreme angle (1 is easy to unload, while the other requires the jack to be lifted further to unload), I do not notice 1 side being damaged by this, and believe that the system is designed to handle this sort of loading while stationary.

Experiment with your equipment, and do what makes you feel most comfortable. But I don't think you will find any right or wrong answer here. For backing up the last 20-30 feet, if it makes you feel better to remove part of the equipment, go for it. But try not to block traffic while you do it.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:22 AM   #24
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The Point most are Missing is with "Equalizer/Reese Dual Cam/Blue Ox/Hennsley/and others,is you have "NO SWAY Control" without the W/D hooked Up! Youroo!!
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:26 AM   #25
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I had new tires put on my Roo last weekend. I didn't use the WDH for the 7 mile trip to Discount Tire. Everything went fine, but I did notice the trailer seemed to "push" the truck a little when braking. I probably won't do that again.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:33 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
The Point most are Missing is with "Equalizer/Reese Dual Cam/Blue Ox/Hennsley/and others,is you have "NO SWAY Control" without the W/D hooked Up! Youroo!!


Actually, "most" suggested that the OP was being negligent and irresponsible for not using the WDH.

It is us in the minority that says at the weight the OP is talking about it may not be an issue.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:45 AM   #27
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The OP asked for opinions which is what he got. What he does with them is his choice.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:53 AM   #28
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You dont need a WDH if your trucks barely squatting . Thats just how it is . You might need something for sway if you have a sway issue with your set up . Some trailers tow great some tow like crap . Sometimes its the truck that makes a difference . I have never used one on a big boat or enclosed car hauler and never had a sway issue . Only on my little Wildwood have I had sway which is why I use it . There is no rule its just what works for the application .
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:27 AM   #29
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I've always been a firm believer, "if you have it, use it." But I recently upgraded to a Ram 2500 5.7, 11,800 towing capacity and 2300lbs payload. My trailer is roughly 6,000lbs loaded. Went on a short trip this weeekend about 45 minutes away and just put on a sway bar and went on my way, Truck towed great.Thoughts on if I should use WDH all the time or am I ok on short trips just loading up without and hitting the road?
My Point being the OP used a "Sway Bar" others were saying that a W/D hitch is Not needed,TRUE Unless others have a "Hitch that REQUIRES W/D in order to Have Sway Control"! Most little Stinger bars have No provision even for a "Friction Bar Ball" unless a Ball Adapter is Welded on to it! Youroo!!
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:32 AM   #30
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Similar weights and truck anything under an hour drive not on interstates I don't bother to hook up my WDH or any type of sway control. Tows just as good without it some will say I'm going to die but look around transport guys they drive these things across the country without a WDH without issues. The key is making sure you have the right amount of tongue weight and experience towing.
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:34 AM   #31
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It literally takes me 3 minutes more to install the WDH bars. If I'm running so short on time that I don't have the necessary 3 minutes, I need to plan better.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:01 AM   #32
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I appreciate everyone's responses
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:50 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Chpusmc View Post
I use my wdh hitch without bars to go from my house. I sometimes use a tri ball hitch. Of course my TT storage is only 3/4 mile away and the speed limit it 25...

I hook it all up if I take it anywhere further.
I'm pretty much the same. The one campground we go to is literally 2 kms from home and I don't use the bars for that. Speed limit is 30km/h, then 45, then 70 for 10 seconds. Anything else and I put on the bars. The next closest campground is 30 km/h away and it's a road with some whoops and speed limit is 70km/h and definitely put the bars on for that. I find the 2500 with rear air is quite soft with a significant load.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 510Rick View Post
You dont need a WDH if your trucks barely squatting . Thats just how it is . You might need something for sway if you have a sway issue with your set up . Some trailers tow great some tow like crap . Sometimes its the truck that makes a difference . I have never used one on a big boat or enclosed car hauler and never had a sway issue . Only on my little Wildwood have I had sway which is why I use it . There is no rule its just what works for the application .
I'm not sure that sway is the only issue here. The picture should be, overall safety. How much the truck SQUATS is an indicator, but not impressive. I can stiffen my air bags enough to prevent a whole bunch of swat. No matter the size of your suspension, even a one ton should still have WDH if the weight on the ball is signicant (say over 500 lbs with a big truck).

What the hitch is doing is preventing weight from being taken off the front tires or even moving some of the weight up to the front. It is reducing the POSIBILITY of loss of control. Not a question of being able to drive safely. It's a question of being able to maintain control and safe handling in an extreme highway situation. So you won't be the guy flipped over blocking my path down the road.
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