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Old 03-27-2013, 02:29 PM   #11
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thebrakeman, it may very well be that there is a difference in setup between "1/2 ton" and HDs. And I think that you are correct that the vehicle manufacturer concern is front axle capacity.

It's an interesting process fine tuning the WD hitch. Too little pressure and the front feels swimmy; too much pressure and the rear end feels swimmy. The key is making sure you have good vehicle dynamics and making sure your axles aren't overloaded.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:31 PM   #12
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I agree...thanks for all the tips. I checked the tire pressure finally in the camper yesterday, was at 53, so those are now where they are supposed to be. I also bumped up the pressure in my rear tires of my truck from 45 to 70 PSI, which is the heavy load setting. A buddy if mine said that should do it. Today, when I sanitize the fresh water tank, ill take a ride to swish the water around, and hope on the highway and see if that all made a difference, im hoping it does. Plus, today it is not windy out either...
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:58 PM   #13
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hey kozz, what particular hitch shank did you switch to? im having an issue with my lifted truck...the origianl shank ran out of real estate....need a longer one....was kinda hoping to find one that i could use in my 2.5" reciever without an adapter.....i absolutely HATE messing with that lil sleeve!! LOL but at this point im open to whatever....next long outing isnt till memorial day weekend, but rather get on it sooner than later....also did i read taht right that you were running your trailer tires at 53psi? or thats what they were and you fixed them? 65psi right?
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:14 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by acadianbob View Post
thebrakeman, it may very well be that there is a difference in setup between "1/2 ton" and HDs. And I think that you are correct that the vehicle manufacturer concern is front axle capacity.

It's an interesting process fine tuning the WD hitch. Too little pressure and the front feels swimmy; too much pressure and the rear end feels swimmy. The key is making sure you have good vehicle dynamics and making sure your axles aren't overloaded.
Thanks for the comments, and yes there could be slight differences in how the OEM recommends setting up.
I can understand not wanting the front to be loaded any more than stock. I don't agree with it, but I understand the concern.
But recommending that the front be loaded lighter than before the trailer is attached just does not seem right to me. I suspect the vehicle owner's manual is written conservatively, to be sure someone doesn't overload their front axle. But anyone engaged in this thread is probably on the ball enough to take proper measurements. Bring the front back to stock height is practically the same as saying there is no more (and no less) weight than stock. And stock front loading will guarantee that the rear is still squatting to some degree.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:18 PM   #15
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One thing to keep in mind is that when you went from the 1500 to the 2500 you gained a whole lot of rear axle weight rating. you probably do not need to transfer as much weight to the front axle as your 1500 did.

Also - Mountain man comment about the cam position is dead on, every time you adjust head height and angle, it changes the relative position of the cams.

Patience is the key here. Remember that what feels right for someone else with their trailer and truck may not feel right to you. I know when I had my 05 Ram 2500 I had to adjust to how little squat I got in the rear with heavy tongue weights that pushed down the Tahoe it replaced.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:35 PM   #16
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also at the end of the day its really all speculation untill you put the axles on a scale and really see what is happening...ford says to adjust bars to remove HALF the lift of the front after loading the rear.....that was a good starting point for me, but in the end i ended up having to add 3 additional washers to the head to tilt it more and get the SCALE numbers closer to even...while it was not a huge change in the setting it made a considerable difference in front end wander......until my wife loaded the back with a ton of junk from shopping..!!!!....but thats an entirely diff story...lol

good luck, let us know what your final solution is....
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #17
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And that's my point. Moving the front half-way to where it should be (Ford's recommendation) is not enough for proper vehicle stability. I'm guessing that with 3 more washers, you got the front back to stock height or lower. Fantastic!

Just because someone has a whole lot more rear axle capacity...that is not a reason to feel you shouldn't have the WDH adjusted properly. That logic (with all respect) stems from believing that a WDH is primarily just for leveling the truck, removing rear squat.

The primary goal of a WDH is to take any weight that was removed from the front wheels (due to TW), and put it back on the front wheels. This is true for a 1/2-ton, 1-ton, minivan, or anything that allows the use of a WDH.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:31 PM   #18
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The manual of my 2006 F150 reads:

"Attach the trailer to the vehicle and adjust the hitch equalizers so that the front bumper height is within 1/2" (13mm) of the reference point." (The reference point is determined with no trailer attached to the truck). "After proper adjustment, the rear bumper should be no higher than in Step 2". (Again, referring to no trailer attached to the truck).

1st of all, I think it funny that Ford uses the term "equalizers" for spring bars.

The way I interpret that is that the front bumper can be 1/2" higher or lower than with the WDH hooked up vs. the truck with no trailer attached. IMHO, using the front bumper is not the best place to measure, but I can understand what they are trying to accomplish. If the back of the truck goes down without any additional weight being transferred off or onto the front axle, then the front bumper is going to come up because the back of the truck is going down....even though the front fender measurement would stay the same, if that makes sense. If it comes up over 1/2", then the spring bars need to tightened up some. If the front bumper ends up over 1/2" lower, then the spring bars need to be loosened some. But again, you can get some weird measurements at the front bumper vs. the fender wells.
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:21 PM   #19
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And that's my point. Moving the front half-way to where it should be (Ford's recommendation) is not enough for proper vehicle stability. I'm guessing that with 3 more washers, you got the front back to stock height or lower. Fantastic!

Just because someone has a whole lot more rear axle capacity...that is not a reason to feel you shouldn't have the WDH adjusted properly. That logic (with all respect) stems from believing that a WDH is primarily just for leveling the truck, removing rear squat.

The primary goal of a WDH is to take any weight that was removed from the front wheels (due to TW), and put it back on the front wheels. This is true for a 1/2-ton, 1-ton, minivan, or anything that allows the use of a WDH.
actually no....the additional washers brought up the rear some, but the front actually stayed the same height despite the different readings on the scales......my truck now sits level with the trailer on, but still sits about a half inch higher in the front and squats about an inch in the back......

beats me, but it weighs out correctly and more importantly tows correctly
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:27 PM   #20
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my truck now sits level with the trailer on, but still sits about a half inch higher in the front and squats about an inch in the back......

beats me, but it weighs out correctly and more importantly tows correctly
If the axle weights are correct and it tows well, that is more important than the truck sitting entirely level. Some trucks just sit differently with loads than others.

My truck is still a bit higher in back than in the front with the trailer connected.......but the axle weights are good. My truck sits real high in back without the trailer hooked up.
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