Weight Distribution advice

KDHfan · 05-02-2013, 09:48 PM

Until I can get to a scale... Thought I'd ask the experts. I was looking for any advice on my WDB setup. I have a Rockwood 2306 w/Murphy bed. TV is a Nissan Armada w/ a 6500# tow capacity. 4-point Equal-i-zer. It tows pretty decent fully loaded... Better than my previous Rpod did. So going with the measuring calculations... Here are my numbers (distance from pavement to bottom of fender well): nothing hooked up... back - 36" , front - 36-1/8". Camper hooked up w/o WDB's... Back 34-7/8", front 36-1/2". Camper hooked up with WDB's engaged... Back 35-1/8", front 36-1/4".
Didn't know if I should play with the adjustments or leave well enough alone? Like i said... i could live with the way it tows as-is... but... im sorta new to this. Thanks in advance for any advice.

asquared · 05-02-2013, 09:55 PM

One piece of advice I learned when setting up my old armada.... make sure all measurements are done without the load leveling suspension engaged. We found we couldn't figure out why our measurements were so weird in comparison to weights. It took a lot of playing and a lot of time to figure this out. Basically, we would measure unhooked. Then hook up and quickly shut the truck off before the load leveling suspension bladders would kick in. Get the measurements. Make adjustments and repeat the measurements. It turns out that once we got the measurements pretty close without the load leveling suspension firing, we were just about right on weights on the axles at the scales. Hope this helps you to set things up.

KDHfan · 05-02-2013, 10:01 PM

I have an SV package... No self leveling. That only comes with the SE and Platinum packages (2012 models).

asquared · 05-02-2013, 11:34 PM

Ok. I had an 04 LE model. It had it and I hated that feature when towing.

Triguy · 05-03-2013, 06:31 AM

KDHfan,

Those wheel well measurements looks good to me

The rear should fall somewhere between the first two measurements and the front should fall at least half-way back (you are exactly half way back).

Note that some manufacturers have called for a front wheel well measurement that gets you all the way to the baseline unhitched measurement. I'm not sure where Nissan is on that but it might be addressed in the manual. But, you can leave it as is if you are happy with the steering.

**Platokidd** · 05-03-2013, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDHfan

Until I can get to a scale... Thought I'd ask the experts. I was looking for any advice on my WDB setup. I have a Rockwood 2306 w/Murphy bed. TV is a Nissan Armada w/ a 6500# tow capacity. 4-point Equal-i-zer. It tows pretty decent fully loaded... Better than my previous Rpod did. So going with the measuring calculations... Here are my numbers (distance from pavement to bottom of fender well): nothing hooked up... back - 36" , front - 36-1/8". Camper hooked up w/o WDB's... Back 34-7/8", front 36-1/2". Camper hooked up with WDB's engaged... Back 35-1/8", front 36-1/4".
Didn't know if I should play with the adjustments or leave well enough alone? Like i said... i could live with the way it tows as-is... but... im sorta new to this. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello
I have the same hitch Equal-i-zer 10k for my unit.
Your good with the numbers you have. You have a little room to add more tension to the bars. I got my front to within a 1/8" of no load height. I measured both side of my truck wheel fenders as they can vary.
I would make sure my bars are parallel with the tongue frame of the unit or slope up towards the hitch. Never sloped up towards the camper. Did you check to see if your camper is level with the ground front to back?? Think they recommend being within 1 1/2" hooked up? More level the better. I adjusted mine several times to get it just right. But then again Im kinda perfectionist with that kinda a stuff lol.
I also got the quick release pins for the bars and the new L pin brackets. no more cotter pins for me. Bar pins are nice and I will try the new L pins today.
Hope that helps and Happy campin

HIDE OUT · 05-04-2013, 07:11 PM

I just purchased a new tow vehicle Ford F150. Today, I hooked my trailer up for the first time to check if the weight distribution was correct for this truck versus my previous truck. According to my manual, the numbers that reflected are: the front fender unhitched is 37 1/4" then with the entire weight of the trailer with out the bars it is 38 1/4" then with the bars on the height levels out to 37 1/4" My ? is the truck is back to level is this fine or should it be 1/2 " higher in the front. The truck's manual says it should not be more then 1/2" higher . Thankyou for the advice.

**Platokidd** · 05-05-2013, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdefeo1

I just purchased a new tow vehicle Ford F150. Today, I hooked my trailer up for the first time to check if the weight distribution was correct for this truck versus my previous truck. According to my manual, the numbers that reflected are: the front fender unhitched is 37 1/4" then with the entire weight of the trailer with out the bars it is 38 1/4" then with the bars on the height levels out to 37 1/4" My ? is the truck is back to level is this fine or should it be 1/2 " higher in the front. The truck's manual says it should not be more then 1/2" higher . Thankyou for the advice.

I would say your good! I would check to make sure the unit is level when fully hooked up. Measure the front of the box at the frame to the ground and the same with the rear. Im not sure I would have to check but I think that measurement should be within 0" to 2".

Happy camping

thebrakeman · 05-09-2013, 08:38 AM

I'm in the camp that shoots for having the front height (and therefore weight) back to unhitched measurement. But at 1/8" high, it's probably leave well-enough alone. If you were to take it to the next adjustment (add another washer), you might end up 1/8" low. That may or may not be good, depending on how much front axle weight capacity you have (and how much weight is added by you and any front passenger...cough-cough).
If you feel like trying another washer, go for it. But I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

**Platokidd** · 05-09-2013, 09:58 AM

Having the front end back to unhitched height is good. I would never go lower in the front then that.
The 2 biggest thing I see others do wrong is have the spring bars angled up towards the camper and / or the camper itself is not level.
Spring bars should be parallel to the tongue frame or sloped down towards the camper. The camper itself should be level or within a 1 1/2" of level.
This will give you the best results.
Some things I know are a trade off. Its getting the best of all the dimensions right or close to it.
Happy camping

thebrakeman · 05-09-2013, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by platokidd

Having the front end back to unhitched height is good. I would never go lower in the front then that.
The 2 biggest thing I see others do wrong is have the spring bars angled up towards the camper and / or the camper itself is not level.
Spring bars should be parallel to the tongue frame or sloped down towards the camper. The camper itself should be level or within a 1 1/2" of level.
This will give you the best results.
Some things I know are a trade off. Its getting the best of all the dimensions right or close to it.
Happy camping

This is especially good advise if you use the Equal-i-zer brand WDH, or anything that has the bars sliding on another flat surface to provide sway control. The 2 surfaces slideing parallel (maximum surface area contact) is what you want. I had mine angle slightly upward the first season. This caused increased wear on the front edge of the L-bracket and well as the sliding surface of the bars. Over that first season, I notice the noise (creaks, groans) increasing, before I noticed the wear. I had to file and repaint the brackets and buy new L-pins. Adjusted for the 2nd season (and bought the bracket-jackets) and things were much better.

**Platokidd** · 05-09-2013, 12:14 PM

I get to do the set up over for my new lacrosse this week. Drove it home with the set up for my tracer. Its close but need to check the numbers be sure.
I thought about the bracket jackets but they claim not to use them with the "new snap style L pins". I paint my spring bar ends and L brackets with mower guard.
It is a graphite base paint like film that is clean and leaves no mess. http://mowerguard.com/
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/...roducts_id=115

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