Weight Distribution Hitch for first timer

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

I don't know how deep your pockets are, but I went from a conventional WDH to an Andersen WDH, and LOVE it! No heavy bars to deal with, and the hitch itself doesn't weigh a ton and a half. The whole assembly shipped for less than 60 lbs. The chains allow you to adjust (on the fly) how much weight you need to move around, and there is NO noise as you turn. The anti-sway control is excellent. I got mine on Amazon for about $450 or so delivered.

https://andersenhitches.com/Catalog/...tion-kits.aspx

Joe

I looked at the attachment you sent and for the life of me, I see nothing about that Anderson hitch that will distribute any weight at all. Stabilize? Maybe, but nothing to take weight off the ball and transfer weight forward or back. Maybe I will read more on it.


I like simple,tried and true spring bars with chains. Noisy maybe but eternally dependable and low in price.

I would go with the 800 pound bars max. I have at top 1200 on the ball and bought 1400 lb bars. I often think I should have gone with just the 1200 lb bars.

[jking46]

See you're in Indiana. We are also and camp in state parks. Maybe we will cross paths this summer.

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by Tom48

I looked at the attachment you sent and for the life of me, I see nothing about that Anderson hitch that will distribute any weight at all. Stabilize? Maybe, but nothing to take weight off the ball and transfer weight forward or back. Maybe I will read more on it.

Read up. The chains attach to the plate on the bottom of the ball assembly. When you crank down on the nuts at the back of the chains (at the trailer end), it pulls up, and shifts the weight to the front of the truck and the back of the trailer. As your load changes, you can crank in more or less as needed to achieve the correct weight distribution, fine tuning it more closely than with “conventional” hitches. It works. And the MUCH LOWER weight of the entire system makes it the choice for my wife and me.

[AlaskaErik]

I have a similar size trailer and mine came with the EAZ-Lift 1000. It works just fine for me, and I also have a half-ton pickup. I find that I don't need to use the sway bar that came with it. It tows rock solid without it. I have no idea what one costs, as it was included in the purchase.

[Timtation]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

Read up. The chains attach to the plate on the bottom of the ball assembly. When you crank down on the nuts at the back of the chains (at the trailer end), it pulls up, and shifts the weight to the front of the truck and the back of the trailer. As your load changes, you can crank in more or less as needed to achieve the correct weight distribution, fine tuning it more closely than with “conventional” hitches. It works. And the MUCH LOWER weight of the entire system makes it the choice for my wife and me.

The thing I like about it is when reconnecting. I leave the unit attached, raise the tongue until the chains are slack, remove the clevis from each side then raise the hitch off the ball. When attaching the TV is backed in the same position, the hitch is lowered just onto the ball so no weight is on the ball and the clevis is reattached, lower the tongue, connect plug, pull fwd set flashers and inspection walk the trailer.

[emaruu]

At the CAT scales I learned that my Andersen WDH was able to get me back to 20 pounds from my unloaded front axles. I was convinced then and it was new to me. Having gone a couple thousand miles with it in the past month, I'm even more convinced I picked the right one. I'm pulling a Roo 21SS with a Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 w/tow pkg. Cross winds still are a booger, but without a 20mph from my starboard side I pull straight. It's easy to hook up and I carry the hitch one-handed.

[Buzzroll]

My 36’ TT broke two of the traditional WD systems, then I got the Andersen. It is better in every possible way and I believe it is a mistake to buy any other system. After five years of use, it still works perfectly (and better) than the other systems.

[smithmdsmith]

I own 2 Equalizer brand hitches (1000/10000 & 1400/14000) and a ProPride (1400/14000).

I used the 1000/10000 equalizer on 4 trailers with a half ton truck: 3700/4800, 5700/7000, 6000/7200, and 7400/9000 dry/loaded weights. It worked great on everything but the 35-foot, 9000 pound trailer.

I switched to the 1400/14000 ProPride for the big load with the half ton truck. It was amazing for towing, but was a pain in the butt for hooking up or taking the trailer for service. And it was stupid expensive.

Then I bought a 2500HD truck and the 1400/14000 equalizer. No problems.

For the OP, I'd go with the 1000/10000 Equalizer brand hitch. It may be a little big, now, but your next trailer will probably be bigger. Just ask my wife about mine.

[ronncda]

Having pulled TT all of my adult life, now 65 and MH'ing, I personally would never suggest anyone pull a TT without an equalizer hitch. While most buy them due to weight, I have found they also help in keeping the trailer behind you. It will only take 1 trailer fishtailing; for whatever reason, for you to spend the money. I have experienced this with all sizes/lengths/weights . Yep, You would think I would learn but in trying to cut corners here and there...Well, let's just say, spend the money. Look on Craig's List. You'll find what you are looking for at a substantial discount to new. FWIW, I use my stabilizer bars on my 16' cargo trailer too.
Just my 2c
Ron

[jrw711]

Purchased 2018 FR Salem 29BHHL which is towed with a 2010 Supercrew cab 4x4, tow package and given its 34 foot length, but 6300 dry weight, it had Terrible sway towing until I replaced my old sway bar with the Equalizer 4 pt sway hitch 800lb and it works like a dream. Definitely recommend this setup

[deepseadan]

I’m surprised no one recommend a Hensley arrow or pro pride 3 hitch. They are way more pricey than regular wdh / sway hitches but far superior because they eliminate sway before it can begin unlike sway control types. The wdh is also built in and use screw jacks which are as simple as it gets. I think most people don’t even know they exist. I didn’t until I had a few close calls then decided to do some serious research to figure out sway. Imagine not even knowing a semi is passing you at 75mph, serious cross winds do nothing and not having to stress about having a heavy load at the back of your trailer( like my toy hauler). Anyways check them out

https://www.hensleymfg.com/

https://www.propridehitch.com/

I have the Hensley but the propride is just as good in my opinion. Others wdh’s will probably do the job but for me it was a no brainer and I can’t put a price on my family’s safety. And I don’t have any affiliation with them, just an owner.

[lamokadave]

Originally Posted by emaruu

At the CAT scales I learned that my Andersen WDH was able to get me back to 20 pounds from my unloaded front axles. I was convinced then and it was new to me. Having gone a couple thousand miles with it in the past month, I'm even more convinced I picked the right one. I'm pulling a Roo 21SS with a Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 w/tow pkg. Cross winds still are a booger, but without a 20mph from my starboard side I pull straight. It's easy to hook up and I carry the hitch one-handed.

Im new to towing a TT but did buy the Andersen. Im pulling GeoPro 19fbs with a f150 Screw. Loaded TT is close to 4000 with tounge around 700-750. (Dual tanks and batteries, plus hitch mounted bike rack). Ill second or likely 5th by now that the Andersen does a good job with overall TT management. Only thing i experience with passing trucks is a slight nudge as the bow wave of air passes by, but never any distinct reaction from the TT. As set up, my truck rear is approx 1.5" lower than unloaded, front is no more than 1/4" higher than unloaded (truck sits level) and the TT is abt 1" nose down over its 20ft length. I've towed over 2k miles at this point and all handles nicely. What I'm never sure of however is just how tight to adjust the chain tension. Im typically 5-6 visible threads behind the nuts which is typically 2-3 threads beyond hand tight. Adj like that, the chains are rigid. I could like stand on one with little deflection. Not sure if this is the optimal adjustment, but it seems to work. How did you figure out what was right for you? Are you using more or less tension?

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by lamokadave

How did you figure out what was right for you? Are you using more or less tension?

I tightened mine until the truck and trailer were level, or pretty darn close. Saying I’ve got 9 threads showing is immaterial because my brackets are likely a different distance from the ball than yours. I get next to no deflection on my chains.

Joe

[emaruu]

Agreed about thread count differences. I went to a scale and actually adjusted between weighs a few times. Relatively inexpensive way to KNOW my weight and distribution effect. And, as my son would say about hand-tight: whose hand? But I use the tongue jack to lift, do my threads, then lower it back down. I rarely get out the tools now.

My advice for ANY weight distribution hitch is to go to a scale that isn't busy and pay for a few re-weighs. It's entertaining as well as educational.

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

I tightened mine until the truck and trailer were level, or pretty darn close. Saying I’ve got 9 threads showing is immaterial because my brackets are likely a different distance from the ball than yours. I get next to no deflection on my chains.

Joe

[wicook]

We have a 1902 Mini Lite towed by a Ridgeline. We used to have a chain style WDH with a friction anti-sway bar, but still had noticeable sway when we met big trucks. We just switched to an Equ-i-lizer 4-way and have absolutely no problems with sway. Our dealership’s (it actually sells Anderson) mechanic told us that Equ-i-lizer 4-way is the Cadillac and that the Anderson design is proven prone.

[wylie31]

I have been using Andersen WD for several years now and find it the best solution. I live in Texas so wind is always a factor along with 80 miles-an-hour Interstate. I have no issue with crosswinds or big trucks blasting past me. By far Andersen is the easiest setup and takedown WD.

[thebrakeman]

For a 1/2-ton truck, I'd want a WDH when TW exceeds 500 lbs. Your owner's manual will probably tell you when it's recommended and/or required. WDH is needed when there is enough TW, such that the OEM/owner should be concerned about the amount of weight being removed from the front wheels.


A small hybrid like that will only weigh about 800 lbs over dry weight, so around 4450 lbs. 12.5% of that should be on the ball, or 556 lbs (could be more or less).


Your need for a WDH is borderline. Would you benefit from it? Sure. And if you get something that has integrated sway control, all the better. In fact, if you don't get a WDH, I would recommend a $50 friction sway controller from Harbor Freight.

[MentallyRetired]

I currently have an F150 pulling a 24' hybrid. I have pulled 4 trailers with my Equalizer WD hitch from 24' to 34'. Once set up properly, you won't know the camper is there (except in high winds of course). Don't let the dealer set it up for you, they have never done it right fro me. Call Equalizer's tech support. They are fantastic. They will stay on the phone with you as long as it takes.