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Old 04-07-2013, 02:37 PM   #11
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I leave 4 links hanging. It's not been so bad here at the campground but at home my drive way slopes forward towards the TV direction and to the left slightly. I'm not sure the brand of hitch as it was gave to me and the stickers were worn off .
there is your issue right there.....sloping driveway....that basically alters the hitch head angle and puts MORE tension on your bars.......the only way to make it easier is to not park on a slope. or jack the tongue higher to compensate for the added tilt.....i have had that situation a couple of times....i stick extra lynx levelrs under my jack/yellow cone to give me more lift......and it was exactly in one of those situations were i almost lifted the tuck up getting the trailer off...LOL


in those situations just be aware, and use extra caution when un snapping the brackets as they will have extra tension on em.....or go the expensive route and buy a new hitch...LOL...

my father has the husky centerline, and you actually DO have to use a pry bar to latch the trunnion bars in.....the pry bar promptly bent the first year he used it...those bars can be a PAIN to install on a slope....
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:41 PM   #12
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Or hook up on the slope then drive to a flat area to attach the snap up bars. probably only take an extra 5 minutes
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:50 PM   #13
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Or hook up on the slope then drive to a flat area to attach the snap up bars. probably only take an extra 5 minutes
It's the taking off that seems to be worse than the putting on. The link that you posted , how is the tension tightened with those ?
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:55 PM   #14
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thats prob the easiest sloution....just hook and unhook the bars while flat, THEN move to your slope ...so you dont have to mess with them.....it aint gonna hurt anything to drive a lil ways without bars.....
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:03 PM   #15
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I will try that with my new Tv , I use a ram1500 and it squats too much with out the bars to make it into the drive way, i have a dip entering the driveway and the jack will scrape without the bars . I'll try jacking up higher this time when we go home tomorrow. I'm getting a F350 Tuesday.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:11 PM   #16
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F350..? .heck it wont hardly squat regardless...lol...

And if its a 4x4 with factory 20s you may need an entirely new drop shank to level the trailer !!...they sit wayyyy up there...lol...

6.7? ...Yeah...you will love that tow beast!
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:19 PM   #17
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It's the taking off that seems to be worse than the putting on. The link that you posted , how is the tension tightened with those ?
With the Andersen hitch, which I have, you use a 1/2" ratchet and the socket that comes with the WD hitch to put tension on the chains. You tighten the big nut behind the poly bushings, which compress and then put pressure on the brackets on the camper A-frame and also pulls on the shank on the ball. Its a pretty slick setup IMO.

My cousin has an Equal-I-zer on his TT. He has a tongue weight in the 1100-1200lb range, he has never used the bar to hook up, that I know of. He just uses the tongue jack to raise it up enough, then slides the bars on by hand.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:36 PM   #18
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F350..? .heck it wont hardly squat regardless...lol...

And if its a 4x4 with factory 20s you may need an entirely new drop shank to level the trailer !!...they sit wayyyy up there...lol...

6.7? ...Yeah...you will love that tow beast!
It's a 6.3. 4wd with factory 20" 2005 model with 100k miles. But it has had 5k worth of engine mods done so it may be up around 6.7ltr
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:40 PM   #19
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Nice tv none the less !!...those do sit a lil lower than the newer ones...still quite a bit taller than your 1500 tho! ....im sure you will be grinning when u hook it up and mash the go pedal!
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:48 PM   #20
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O yea, I'm ready to pull the TT with it. The TT dry weight is 5,400lbs so I'm hoping ill barely even feel it back there and more power going up grades. The 1500 struggles to go up steep grades.
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