Weights From CAT Scale

[jbhodj]

Greetings

Im towing a Coachmen 292BHDS with a Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 2.92 gears with tow package LT 10 ply tire set up with a Equalizer 10000/1000 hitch.

Right now I know Im over on my TV payload weights so I guess Im going shopping for a 2500 soon. Also I seem to have lost 80# between Weight 1 Gross and Weigh 2 Gross. Not sure what happened here but as everything was the same.

Truck Ratings 2012 Ram Laramie 2.92 Axles with T rated tires set at 80PSI
GVWR 6800
Payload 1450
GAWR Front 3700
GAWR Rear 3900
GCVWR 15500
Max Trailer 9950

TT Ratings
Max GVWR 7600
GAWR 3500

My weights From CAT Scale Are As Follows

Weight 1 TV Only
Front 3460
Rear 2780
Gross 6240

Weight 2 (TV + TT (bars in bed)
Front 2980
Rear 4200
Trailer Axle 6280
Gross 13460

Weight 3 (TV+TT Bars Attached)
Steer 3300
Drive 3680
Trailer 6400
Gross 13380

Based on the information above and tell me if Im correct Im carrying 940# tongue weight or 13% and a Trailer weight of 7220#

Like I said currently Im over on my max payload for this truck by what 380#? TV weight plus tongue weight?, and was shocked to learn how much so I know the first thing the weight police are gonna say is go get a new truck, which Im going to do!

My question is for now short term, and the trailer tows pretty well, should I make an adjustment to the hitch immediately to get some of that tongue weight off of my hitch? I have 6 washers in the hitch now and L brackets are set to run the bars parallel. I should mention I have added the L bracket pads to stop some noise. Would it be better to add one more washer or raise my L brackets one hole to get some more weight distributed off my hitch?

There is no sway in the trailer now and it tows pretty good and the rig is level. Im not planning on making any long trips soon.

Safety is a concern for my family of course and I know some will say that I should just park the TT until I upgrade which has occured to me

Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated on adjustments. FYI my front compartment on the TT was loaded full, and I know I could put some of that stuff in TT over axles.

[uhduh camping]

I put your numbers through this Travel Trailer Weight Calculator | Safety Report
It came back with 200# over and 15% tongue weight. There are so many bigger offenders out there. If it is comfortable to drive do it. Check it for yourself.

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by uhduh camping

I put your numbers through this Travel Trailer Weight Calculator | Safety Report

It came back with 200# over and 15% tongue weight. There are so many bigger offenders out there. If it is comfortable to drive do it. Check it for yourself.

Thanks for reply. I'm pretty comfortable towing and it tows great. Get a little porpoise (rear hopping) on a section of highway close to where I live. Other than that i think it's ok but could be better. Finicky maybe but I'm not comfortable being over on axle wght of TV


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[lbrjet]

Your numbers are all correct except when hooked up you are 180 lbs over the truck GVWR. Personally I wouldn't worry about it since it is pretty close with a good margin on your axle ratings.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by lbrjet

Your numbers are all correct except when hooked up you are 180 lbs over the truck GVWR. Personally I wouldn't worry about it since it is pretty close with a good margin on your axle ratings.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

lbrjet Im really glad to see you respond as I have read many of your posts on towing and weights and value your opinion.


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[Havasu Bill]

Another 2 cents...
If you are near or above your TV rating, make sure your RAM tires are in very good shape.
I upgraded both my Cardinal 5er tires from E to G614's and also my RAM 2500 to Michelin Defenders from the stock tires. I have way more faith in the structural integrity of the TV and axles than rubber. Both sets of tires were new on the trailer and RAM when I did it. I got a trade-in on the RAM tires of $150 each and gave my 5er tires to a buddy that was putting them on a much smaller open trailer.
I'm sure some would say I went overboard but I tow in the desert at above 110 at times. I'd prefer to stay in my nice air conditioned cab rather than along side the road changing a tire in the heat

[checkmate99]

jbhodj.....do you mean 3.92 rear axle? I don't think a Ram is available with a 2.92 axle. If you truly do have a 2.92 axle, I doubt it has a 9950 pound trailer towing capacity.

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by checkmate99

jbhodj.....do you mean 3.92 rear axle? I don't think a Ram is available with a 2.92 axle. If you truly do have a 2.92 axle, I doubt it has a 9950 pound trailer towing capacity.

Sorry I meant 3.92.

As for tires I'm running Nitto Terra Grapplers 20" LT at 80 psi when towing TT and 40 psi normally for daily driving

When I picked up my TT the dealer set up the hitch, tires at 40, airbags at 5 and called it good. During this whole process of fine tuning my hitch and set up I realized that anytime something changes, i.e. Tire pressure, pressure in air bags, shocks or anything that could affect towing it's best to check and double check from square one to make sure you initial set is still good. What I learned was when my truck was set for towing my hitch ball was a little higher than what dealer measured. Quick fix

Point is anytime anything changes, tires, load, shocks, tire psi, suspension changes ect you better make sure your also making appropriate checks on your hitch set up to make sure you are still in check


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[asquared]

Here is my 2¢. You are right at rear axle max and 180 lbs over on payload. It is easy for me to spend your money and tell you to get a bigger truck. Personally, I would and have done that with my old tt but that is me. So yes I do agree a bigger truck will net you better handling, in the meantime, you could dial your hitch in a little better. I would transfer a little more weight from the rear axle to the front as you are 160 lbs light on the front axle still. The idea is to get the front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. I wouldn't go lighter on tongue weight as that could have negative effects.

For your next truck, pay attention to payload, many 2500 level trucks are light on payload too... my old f250 diesel only had a 1500 lb payload. Yes you read that right. A 3500 will net you even more payload and towing capacity for not much more money. When I say pay attention to payload, I mean the door jam sticker and not the brochure payload as they can differ greatly.

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by asquared

I would transfer a little more weight from the rear axle to the front as you are 160 lbs light on the front axle still. The idea is to get the front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. I wouldn't go lighter on tongue weight as that could have negative

So you say to transfer a little weight to front axle from rear but don't go lighter on tongue weight. So it's not much weight I have to move so what's best route to this



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[asquared]

My hitch was the reese dual cam so I can't tell you how to adjust washers on the equalizer As I'm not as familiar with that hitch. I just know the desired results. Even playing with the hitching change your overweight issue but it might help porpoising issue.

[hunterrick]

It looks to me like your weights all look pretty normal except you are 180 over your GVWR. I wouldn't worry about that. The one thing I see is that you are only returning 67% of the weight that comes off the front, back with WD. That isn't terrible, but is likely the source of your porpoising. I'd adjust your hitch to return more of the weight. Ideally you want to return 100%, but not more. Depending on your hitch brand, you could tighten up the chains another link, or give the hitch head a little more tilt via spacers or whatever mechanism it uses.

[jbhodj]

I ended up adding a washer to the hitch so now I have a total of 7 washers. Will see what changes this makes


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[hunterrick]

I hadn't realized that you were working with an Equalizer. Adding another washer is the correct solution. I think you will notice the difference, both in the amount of porpoising you experience, and in the general handling of the whole rig.

[hunterrick]

One more thing to check. With the rig parked in a level spot, if you measure from the trailer frame to the ground both front and back, the trailer should be level to slightly down in front. If the front is above level, you could lower the hitch head one bolt hole. Doing so will be equivalent to adding a washer to the head angle.

Good luck

[Junior25k]

Here are my numbers.
Top is just my truck with myself, my son and demco hijacker hitch.

Middle is 377v attached. About 300lbs of cargo in it and total of 6 people in my truck.

Bottom is about 800lbs of "stuff", golf cart and 6 people in my truck.

I did the math but can't find the paper I wrote them on sorry.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by asquared

I would transfer a little more weight from the rear axle to the front as you are 160 lbs light on the front axle still. The idea is to get the front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. I wouldn't go lighter on tongue weight as that could have negative effects.

^^^^^^
What she said.