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Old 04-13-2015, 12:13 AM   #11
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Wow. Very nice web site.

Thanks! It's mobile friendly, so it should help if you're actually at the scale and playing around.
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:56 AM   #12
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You need to consider your TV GVWR. If thaat is above 8700, you are good.

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Old 04-13-2015, 02:44 AM   #13
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Is it a rear loading toy hauler.?. Looks like you have a hitch wt around 1480 lbs unloaded based on your rear axle from pass 2 and 3. And that's considering no cargo in bed of truck behind rear axle. Your hitch rating was 1100 lbs so you may be over the capacity of your hitch tongue weight rating. Even distributing your load does not affect this weight rating on your hitch itself. At least from my own research. If it's a rear loading toy hauler then your tongue weight will be significantly less weight loaded. Otherwise, you have exceeded your hitch capacity with an unloaded trailer.
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:02 AM   #14
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Oops, I was just measuring rear axle only. Looks like pass 2 and 3 leaves you under your hitch rating.

Increasing tension in the spring bars will take weight off the rear axle of your truck and distribute more to the front axle and the axles of your trailer. Congrats on your purchase. You have an adequate tow vehicle. GAWR all are under. Go through again and weigh identically, but with fully loaded trailer, food, water heater, all passengers, full fuel and gear you intend to haul in your truck. That's the most important number! Sorry for first read....I was only comparing rear axle weights.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:08 AM   #15
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Oops, I was just measuring rear axle only. Looks like pass 2 and 3 leaves you under your hitch rating.

Increasing tension in the spring bars will take weight off the rear axle of your truck and distribute more to the front axle and the axles of your trailer. Congrats on your purchase. You have an adequate tow vehicle. GAWR all are under. Go through again and weigh identically, but with fully loaded trailer, food, water heater, all passengers, full fuel and gear you intend to haul in your truck. That's the most important number! Sorry for first read....I was only comparing rear axle weights.
Great, that is what I was looking for, will do just that! Thanks.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:09 AM   #16
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A many thanks to all the replies! Sharing knowledge and experience is what makes this site the best tool there is!!!!!
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:41 AM   #17
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Here are your results:
Another Excel guy, I love it. Perfect.

Bilcin, based on standard WDH with chains (not all brands work the same); the more you bend or tension your load bars (the more chain lengths that "hang"), the more weight you distribute or move from the hitch; as well as off the drive axle; based on a ratio, part to the steer axle and part to the trailer axle pair. So, you are not only bringing the tail up, but the front end down. Based on TWR only, it looks about right. But, you didn't provide before and after measurements - front and back of the TV. You now know all you need to know about actual weight, now go by measurements only, IMO. If 11K# and 1100# is your limit you should be golden.

Typical WDH doesn't counter sway, only distribute weight, FYI.

So, if you haven't set up your hitch initially correctly, take a look at this Curt video. Their hardware might be slightly different, but the basics are the same.

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Old 04-13-2015, 08:59 AM   #18
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Help me understand why we'd be interested in the weight without spring bars in place. Since we don't tow without the spring bars, it seems that's an unimportant number in determining hitch weight. I've always weighed the tow vehicle alone, then hitch up with spring bars in place and weigh the tow vehicle again (trailer axles not on scale). The difference is the hitch weight.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:54 AM   #19
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Help me understand why we'd be interested in the weight without spring bars in place. Since we don't tow without the spring bars, it seems that's an unimportant number in determining hitch weight. I've always weighed the tow vehicle alone, then hitch up with spring bars in place and weigh the tow vehicle again (trailer axles not on scale). The difference is the hitch weight.
You cannot know the TW with the bars in place. It redistributes weight from the hitch (drive axle) to front of the TV and trailer axle(s). So, with them in place you could have little or no TW if you over tension the bars, but would have no way to know how much was redistributed. The TW is still there only redistributed to the TV and trailer, we want to know how much. I see your point though. Weighing with WDH in place, will show you how well you set it all up, which tape measurements will do the same thing. It is level you are trying to achieve, while not over loading your equipment.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:39 PM   #20
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I am sorry, I am confused about how you determined the hitch weight.

If I were to go back to the scales with just my tow vehicle and weigh it once, front axle weighs 4000lbs and rear axle weighs 4000lbs. Now I weigh it again only this time I put a cargo basket that is attached to my hitch receiver and put 500lbs of rock in it. Now, wouldn't I simply subtract 1st pass from the 2nd pass to determine how much weight went to each axle?
Isn't this why we weigh with the spring bars and then without the spring boards????
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