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Old 04-22-2014, 08:02 PM   #1
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What grease is best for repacking

I have a AL-KO Ultrulube. It says that I need to use NLGI Grade 2 lithium complex, grease with a minimum dropping point of 400F for the repack.

http://dutchmen.com/image/data/docum...kobrochure.pdf


The only grease I can find in our local shops that indicate dropping temperature is Quaker State Multi-Purpose Grease and Wheel Bearing Lubricant. It has a 525F dropping point, but it does not say "Lithium complex"

The other choice I have is Mystik Hi Temperature Grease, it has "Lithium complex" but does not say what is the dropping point.

Does anyone know if one of these products will work?
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:14 PM   #2
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Someone will answer this and I'll be interested in the answer also.

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Old 04-22-2014, 08:44 PM   #3
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What I would recommend is clean out all the old grease. Inspect the bearings and races. Repack the bearings with a High Temp./High Pressure Wheel bearing grease. Replace wheel seals.
There are grease bases that you are not suppose to mix, for this reason is why they list the type of grease used by the manufacturer. If you can't match the base, replace it with another high temp based grease.
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:36 PM   #4
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A nice write-up on grease http://www.reliabilityweb.com/art04/..._of_grease.pdf
Found this regarding the Quaker State see page 23 http://www.armandhcoutureltd.ca/docu..._catalogue.pdf
Personal preference http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media..._RedNTacky.pdf
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:44 AM   #5
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been using pennzoil 707L red grease for a few years now. worked well for me so far. NLGI-2 lithium base
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Old 04-23-2014, 02:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo View Post
Does anyone know if one of these products will work?
Yes they will but I would recommend you make a trip to your local Crappy Tire and pick up some Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2. It has (for moi) outperformed a variety of other No 2 grease products designated for applications such as this.
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Old 04-23-2014, 02:43 AM   #7
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If you are removing, cleaning, inspecting, hand repacking and reinstalling I would use the Lucas Red N Tacky #2.

That's what I do. Good luck
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:21 PM   #8
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Also have the AL-KO Ultralube hubs and using Royal Purple NLGI No. 2 Synthetic Ultra Performance grease. Purchased thru Amazon last year.

Here's the spec sheet.

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/w...ads/PS_UPG.pdf

First time to perform bearing maintenance, so wondering what sources you use for your Grease Seals and bearings if needed?

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Old 04-23-2014, 11:42 PM   #9
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I just repacked mine last week and used the Lucas Red n tacky #2. It has a drop temp of 540. I would make sure you clean out the old grease and not mix the two if you switch from what you already have.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:48 PM   #10
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Best place I found to purchase seals and bearings is R & P Carriages online. They are located in Illinois and list there products on ebay. NAPA carries bearing that fit rv's. You just give them the number on the bearing. Found that out from our RV Dealer. that is where they get them
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:28 AM   #11
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Best place I found to purchase seals and bearings is R & P Carriages online. They are located in Illinois and list there products on ebay. NAPA carries bearing that fit rv's. You just give them the number on the bearing. Found that out from our RV Dealer. that is where they get them
I have been using amsoil for years and the red commercial stuff lasts a long time. I have taken wheel bearing a part and have found it is not to be needed yet. Use it on trailers ,tractors, motor home, anything it applies too. good stuff. Never had a failure..Pete
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:15 AM   #12
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I too use the Lucas Red and Tacky #2.
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:36 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
What I would recommend is clean out all the old grease. Inspect the bearings and races. Repack the bearings with a High Temp./High Pressure Wheel bearing grease. Replace wheel seals.
There are grease bases that you are not suppose to mix, for this reason is why they list the type of grease used by the manufacturer. If you can't match the base, replace it with another high temp based grease.
Actually, all I need to do is pop off a rubber seal and pump new grease till the old grease is out.

I don’t know how long I must wait for a more complete bearings job.

This site is not Ultrulube but it works the same way.

E-Z Lube Trailer Axles
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:41 AM   #14
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Also have the AL-KO Ultralube hubs and using Royal Purple NLGI No. 2 Synthetic Ultra Performance grease. Purchased thru Amazon last year.

Here's the spec sheet.

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/w...ads/PS_UPG.pdf

First time to perform bearing maintenance, so wondering what sources you use for your Grease Seals and bearings if needed?

I found this post interesting; note the pdf files at the bottom.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ures-9666.html
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:48 AM   #15
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After finding one of the grease seals leaking I cleaned out all the old grease from the spindles, hubs and bearings. Replaced all the seals and went back with Lucas Red And Tacky #2. This is on a four month old unit
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo View Post
Actually, all I need to do is pop off a rubber seal and pump new grease till the old grease is out.

I don’t know how long I must wait for a more complete bearings job.

This site is not Ultrulube but it works the same way.

E-Z Lube Trailer Axles

With the grease-able bearings, you should not have to worry about 'a more complete bearings job'...... pump a little in about twice a year and clean off the excess. It will be fine. Some people may take everything apart themselves and not get the tension put back correctly and your bearing may then burn out.
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:30 AM   #17
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I use aeroshell #5
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:16 PM   #18
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Last week after finding one of my wheel seals was leaking I went to a shop that deals only in trailer axles for some new seals. He made a couple of comments that I wasn't aware of.

1. E-Z lube axles are handy but there isn't any way of knowing just how much grease is truely in the hub. In almost all failures that he has seen, there is too much grease, causing the seal to fail.
2. Seals are only to keep dirt out... not grease in.
3. Always test the seal on the actual spindle before putting it in the hub. It can happen where a trailer will have two different size spindles and you would never know it. His mechanics always test them. Same will apply with the bearings.
4. He never sells just brake shoes. Chances are, if the shoes are wore out, one or more components of the assembly are near their useful life (springs, magnet, clips, wires) and could cause a failure. Not only that, it's an easy job to replace the backing plate with all components attached.

After talking to him, I went home and cleaned out all the old grease, hand packed the bearings with Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease, assembled the hubs and swore to never use the EZ lube again.
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Old 04-27-2014, 07:55 PM   #19
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Funny, I've been an auto tech for 36+ yrs and the only bearing failures I've seen was from LACK OF grease and I literally pour the bearings as dust out of the hub. Never heard of too much grease causing a failure...live & learn.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:27 PM   #20
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When I bought my X-Lite with ez lube axles the only answer I could get as to what type of grease to use was what the rv dealer would pump in was grease from Napa.I could see the grease was green so I bought some Lucas X-Tra heavy duty grease. It had the specs I needed . I hate mixing greases for the fear of them being Incompatable and a lot of my towing is to the Grand Canyon in the summer where temps can run 115 out in the desert. Normaly I would tore down the hubs, cleaned them and repacked them. But the trailer was brand new so I jacked each wheel up and spun it pumping lucas in till I got fresh grease coming out the front of the hub. I have towed it for a year now with no problems and before I go to the GC this June I will repeat the process . I wil check each hub for play in the bearings. I believe this is the same as packing your bearings in a regular axle and you should not have to touch them for a year or better.
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