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Old 09-04-2016, 04:27 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by fastalkintn View Post
I really don't have a way to weigh the trailer. I was hoping to order the hitch today to ensure delivery this week. But I will wait until tomorrow and call equalizer. Do you folks think you can go to big with the hitch?
Just have to ask. #1 What is the towing capacity on your truck?
Edit:
Just have to ask. #2 What is the GVWR on your trailer? (sorry you gave that)
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by fastalkintn View Post
I really don't have a way to weigh the trailer. I was hoping to order the hitch today to ensure delivery this week. But I will wait until tomorrow and call equalizer. Do you folks think you can go to big with the hitch?
If you want to be sure get the tongue weighed.

That being said, I have the 1200 with my 27vrl loaded 7200. Best price I found Amazon. Night and day from the chains.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Wobbles View Post
Just have to ask. #1 What is the towing capacity on your truck?

Edit:

Just have to ask. #2 What is the GVWR on your trailer? (sorry you gave that)

My towing is 9300#. Nissan Titan with big tow package
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:17 AM   #14
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I would rather err on the high side than low. Being too close (or over) your WDH rating means that the springs-bars act more like springs, and less like rigid bars, giving you the dreaded, sickening "porpoising" motion down the road. An accurate measurement of YOUR loaded TW would be best. But if you don't have, you should estimate a range:

For typical, average loading:
1. 27RDSS is 6355 dry. Add 1000 lbs for options and your gear = 7355 loaded.
2. Estimate 12.5% on the ball = 919 loaded TW.
3. Since I never like to be anywhere near the rated load, add 100 lbs = 1019.
By this estimate, you might squeak by with the 1000, but 1200 would not be too much, as most would agree.

Try a bit more:
1. 6355 + 1200 for options/gear = 7555
2. 7555 * 14% = 1058
3. 1058 + 100 = 1158
This puts you square on the 1200 lbs unit

To the maximum (which you will never actually see!):
1. 7800 lbs
2. 7800 * 15% = 1170
3. 1170 + 100 = 1270
IF, IF, IF you truly believe you load to 7600-7800 lbs, and IF, IF, IF, you you believe you will have a disproportionate amount of cargo forward of the axles, then the 1200 unit would be too soft, and you should go with the 1400.

But if you are an average packer, I'd stick to the 1200 lbs unit.
Again, I recommend you load for camping, and get an actual TW measurement. If loaded TW is 1100 or less, stick with the 1200 lbs unit. More than 1100 lbs, go with the 1400.
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
I would rather err on the high side than low. Being too close (or over) your WDH rating means that the springs-bars act more like springs, and less like rigid bars, giving you the dreaded, sickening "porpoising" motion down the road. An accurate measurement of YOUR loaded TW would be best. But if you don't have, you should estimate a range:

For typical, average loading:
1. 27RDSS is 6355 dry. Add 1000 lbs for options and your gear = 7355 loaded.
2. Estimate 12.5% on the ball = 919 loaded TW.
3. Since I never like to be anywhere near the rated load, add 100 lbs = 1019.
By this estimate, you might squeak by with the 1000, but 1200 would not be too much, as most would agree.

Try a bit more:
1. 6355 + 1200 for options/gear = 7555
2. 7555 * 14% = 1058
3. 1058 + 100 = 1158
This puts you square on the 1200 lbs unit

To the maximum (which you will never actually see!):
1. 7800 lbs
2. 7800 * 15% = 1170
3. 1170 + 100 = 1270
IF, IF, IF you truly believe you load to 7600-7800 lbs, and IF, IF, IF, you you believe you will have a disproportionate amount of cargo forward of the axles, then the 1200 unit would be too soft, and you should go with the 1400.

But if you are an average packer, I'd stick to the 1200 lbs unit.
Again, I recommend you load for camping, and get an actual TW measurement. If loaded TW is 1100 or less, stick with the 1200 lbs unit. More than 1100 lbs, go with the 1400.

Thank you for all the great input. After a conversation with equalizer and reading your post I ordered the #1200 unit.

Of interest, he did say that no difference in the bars between the #1200 and #1400 unit. Only the hitch head was different. After helping me run the numbers (much like you did above) he said the #1400 wasn't needed and didn't justify the cost difference.

Can't wait to get it installed, hope it improves my situation. We are heading to the Smokies Monday!
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:56 PM   #16
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what do you not like about the E2 hitch ?
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:08 PM   #17
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what do you not like about the E2 hitch ?

My trailer is 33' and I just didn't feel that the e2 gave me enough sway control. I used it with a smaller trailer and it worked fine. But with a trailer this long I feel 4 points of control instead of 2 would be safer.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:13 PM   #18
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We have the 1200 EZ 4 point. I cannot say enough about this hitch. My trailer is only 28' but with two rear sliders it is a Sway-O-Matic. It clunks and bangs in a campground loud enough to startle you, but that`s a small price to pay for relaxation on the road.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:18 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by fastalkintn View Post
My trailer is 33' and I just didn't feel that the e2 gave me enough sway control. I used it with a smaller trailer and it worked fine. But with a trailer this long I feel 4 points of control instead of 2 would be safer.
EXACTLY!
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by fastalkintn View Post
My trailer is 33' and I just didn't feel that the e2 gave me enough sway control. I used it with a smaller trailer and it worked fine. But with a trailer this long I feel 4 points of control instead of 2 would be safer.
Just curious, we have a 21fbrs with an E2 and it works great
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