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Old 01-20-2013, 09:06 AM   #1
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What's the best size

I have a brand new 2012 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab with a classIII hitch, and I am looking to purchase a Travel Trailer to go RVing. It says the towing capacity for my truck is 6500lbs. I was looking at an avenger 23FBS. The length is 25'3", Height 10' 6", Hitch 668lbs, Ship weight 5260lbs, carrying capacity 2370lbs. Iwas going to have a sway control and brake installed. My concern is I want to make sure my truck can handle the weight without stressing the motor or transmission. If this is 2 big does anyone have any suggestions on what type of TT. My truck is a V6.

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Old 01-20-2013, 09:23 AM   #2
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A class III hitch is limited to 5,000 lbs and a hitch weight of 500lbs. This is too much TT for your TV.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #3
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To find your trailer weight add the "dry weight" and payload to find the "loaded" weight. It is 7630.

At 7600 pounds your tongue weight will be 12% of the travel trailer weight to avoid VERY scary trailer handling. The hitch weight will be 915 pounds.

Your truck would have to a have a new truck installed as an option to make this work.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:43 AM   #4
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Caper that is not correct. A class 3 hitch can be rated to 6000 lbs weight carrying and 10000 weight distribution. This is according to the Reese web site.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:42 AM   #5
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i tow a 23' HTT with a v-8 full size truck and there's no way i'd pull a 25'+ TT with a v-6 Frontier.

payload/hitch weight will be your biggest issue along with length. dry hitch weight of 663lbs. is already over your Frontier's max.

plus the GVWR is way over your truck's capacity.

definitely too much trailer.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:19 PM   #6
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Too big. Try to stick under 5K dry weight. Don't go by the book. Ask around and see what other real world weights are. Options start adding up fast.

I personally like the Hybrids for towing light. Evergreen also makes a nice lightweight and aerodynamic Euro style camper, which if I could have afforded new, was leaning towards.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:25 PM   #7
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Trailer Hitch Classes Defined and Explained


Please refer to the following trailer hitch class information if you have questions about how trailer hitch classes are determined. When choosing a hitch, we recommend you consider your current towing needs as well as future needs. A bicycle rack today may turn into a power boat next year. If in doubt, it’s best to select a higher class.
Not all vehicles can tow all classes of trailer and hitch. Always refer to your owners manual to determine your vehicles towing capactiy.

Read more about Towing Hitch Classes


NOTE: Always choose a hitch that is strong enough to handle the maximum anticipated total weight of the trailer but does not exceed the towing capacity of your vehicle. Refer to your vehicle's owner’s manual for maximum towing and tongue weight limitations. The trailer tongue load should be kept at 10 percent of the loaded trailer weight for weight-carrying* (deadweight) trailer hitches, and 12 percent for weight-distributing** (equalizing) trailer hitches. Also, you may want need to consider vehicle modifications that might be beneficial, such as stiffer springs, air springs, overload or air assist shocks, larger sway bars or automatic transmission fluid (ATF) cooler. Such modifications may be needed on vehicles used for heavy towing or long-distance towing. You may also want to refer to the U.S. Department of Transportation web site for additional towing tips and information.
Order Your Trailer Hitch Below. It's Is Easy with our New Parts Configurator!


Class I Hitches

This is the lightest type of trailer hitch. A Class 1 trailer hitch can handle a gross trailer weight (GTW) of up to 2,000 lbs., and a maximum tongue weight of 200 lbs. The hitch may be a simple drawbar-type hitch or step bumper-type hitch. Other hitches may have a crossbar with a small one-inch or 1-1/2-inch square receiver, or a small 2-inch by 5/8-inch receiver. This type of hitch is often used on smaller cars, smaller pickups and smaller vans (minivans) for bicycle racks, camping racks, and light-duty towing. We sell many fine class 1 hitches as well as an economical, easy to install (do-it-yourself) Class 1 trailer hitch.
Class II Hitches

Class II hitches are for loads of up to 3,500 lbs. GTW and 300 lbs. tongue weight such as a small boat trailer, snowmobile trailer, motorcycle trailer or camper. This type of trailer hitch is appropriate for larger cars, full-size vans, full-size pickups and SUVs. Many of our class II hitches are designed specifically for your vehicle, and we have some universal class II trailer hitches as well.
Class III Hitches

Class III hitches can handle up to 5,000 lbs. GTW and 500 lbs. tongue weight. This type of hitch generally has a 2-inch rectangular receiver and is considered the "standard" type of hitch for general towing. Most of our class III hitches are designed specifically for your vehicle. There are also some universal-fit class III trailer hitches available.
Class IV Hitches

Class IV hitches are for up to 10,000 lbs. GTW and 1,000 to 1,200 lbs. of tongue weight. This type of hitch is usually a weight-distributing hitch. We carry many fine class IV hitches that are designed specifically for your vehicle.
Class V Hitches

Class V hitches are for extra heavy loads greater than 10,000 lbs. GTW and more than 1,200 lbs. tongue weight. This type of hitch is usually a weight-distributing hitch. This type of hitch may have up to a 2-1/2 inch receiver with a 3/4-inch pinhole. Typical uses might be to tow a car trailer, horse trailer or unusually large boat or camper.


This site states that a class III hitch is rated for 5000 lbs.

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Old 01-20-2013, 02:45 PM   #8
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I agree with all the previous posts that trailer when loaded for camping will be too big for your TV. As for classes of hitch you MUST look at your hitch to determine how much weight it can handle. My hitch is rated a class III/IV yet it is only rated for 3500 WC and 4000 lbs WD.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:24 PM   #9
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Here are some options, though you may still get up there concerning real world numbers loaded up and all.
Roo Travel Trailer by Forest River

Roo Travel Trailer by Forest River

Here are some others, just to get you started!Micro Lite Travel Trailer Floorplans by Forest River
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:46 PM   #10
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Also consider where you will be towing. Going up and down mountain passes will put a huge strain on your vehicle at altitude vs. a long flat stretch of highway.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #11
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I'd stay under 4,000, there are lots of nice trailers out there under that weight. How many people do you need to sleep?
There are lots of nice ultra lights out there. Keep in mind the slide outs will add weight. Go to the dealerships, look at the weight on the inside trailer doors.
Don't let them talk you into something more/too much than you need. I'd rather have 2000 lbs to "play" with, that be worrying about how much everything you put in the trailer weighs.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:07 PM   #12
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I have a Frontier crew cab 4X4 for a company work truck, trust me you DO NOT want to be pulling a 6000lb trailer with it! I tow a 4500lb enclosed trailer with it every once in a while and truthfully the Frontier really struggles on hills, its fine on flats, but hills kill it. I would try and stick with a trailer in the 5000lb range at most, you can find some very nice campers in that size now days.
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