What's your zero to 60 time with your trailer?

[RacerRalph]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

I did it in 8 seconds. Downhill run to Silverthorne CO.: from the Eisenhower tunnel.

I got the mileage meter on my Hemi Dodge Magnum up to 1,000 MPG going down that hill. Should have taken a picture!

[upflying]

Not a trailer puller but my LS3 powered 1986 Chev Monte Carlo SS should be mid-5's 0-60.

[Hersbird]

Originally Posted by upflying

Not a trailer puller but my LS3 powered 1986 Chev Monte Carlo SS should be mid-5's 0-60.
Attachment 205347

That's cool, but the 2.7 EcoBoost without the trailer was under 5 sec 0-60 tuned. Pretty amazing 4.83 sec to be exact, the 3.5 was even faster 4.3ish. Then again you could always add a turbo to the LS3.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by Hersbird

That's cool, but the 2.7 EcoBoost without the trailer was under 5 sec 0-60 tuned. Pretty amazing 4.83 sec to be exact, the 3.5 was even faster 4.3ish. Then again you could always add a turbo to the LS3.

Most of the aftermarket supports superchargers for the LS engine family. But no thanks on the turbo, the car is not controllable now at WOT.

[Comanchecreek]

Originally Posted by RacerRalph

I got the mileage meter on my Hemi Dodge Magnum up to 1,000 MPG going down that hill. Should have taken a picture!

You got your best 0-60 time with the brakes on.

[robbiels7]

Originally Posted by upflying

Not a trailer puller but my LS3 powered 1986 Chev Monte Carlo SS should be mid-5's 0-60.
Attachment 205347

Sweet ride!

[Hersbird]

Originally Posted by upflying

Most of the aftermarket supports superchargers for the LS engine family. But no thanks on the turbo, the car is not controllable now at WOT.

Actually the Caddy recall supercharger can be put together for under $2500, but the turbos really do work better, can be done for that kind of price, and because they don't hit as hard right away are easier on the rest of the driveline and like you pointed out, you already can exceed the traction available right off the line. I'm going to build my 6.0 but can't decide if I should keep it pretty stock but add a turbo, or add ported heads, bigger cam, better valve springs, better intake and throttle body, and long tube headers. Either way 500 hp costs about $2500 which is amazing compared to how hard it was 30 years ago to build a 500hp small block.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by GXPWeasel1

Not that I'm into racing, especially not on the street, or pulling any trailer, or with a 4wd crew cab truck.
However, I did purchase a programmer last year for my truck, and although I didn't have the current camper yet, I did have a 28ft. pontoon boat I pulled, and I have always been interested in more power, and better performance. The second $400 programmer I bought (I sold the first one for what I paid for it) was worth every penny. I get about 2 mpg better economy, not pulling, and a noticeable difference in performance, based on the fact that my truck shifts when I tell it to, with the firmer shifts and higher rpm. I have it programmed to perform even better if the Tow/Haul button is pushed. I don't car how many HP it added, but it made my truck more fun, and more comfortable to drive, every day.
To me, that $400 is worth it as much as the $400 I spent on the WDH hitch.

You can double that gain in mpg just by changes in your driving habits...and it doesn't cost 400 bucks.

[Vikes79]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Regular acceleration would have faired better for the driveshaft, doing that 2200 rpm hole-shot doesn't help at all on any of the 3 trucks. Who in their right mind brake torques their tv to 2000 rpm?

Not only that but the results would have been quite different.

7 tenths between the 5.0l and the 3.5 in stock form on a hand clicker by the driver might as well be the same!

Lol. Amusing it is.