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Old 06-14-2014, 07:57 PM   #11
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if you pull one wheel onto 2 pieces of 2x6 one of the wheels on that side should be off the ground enough to do this so you don't have to jack, once up choke the other side of the trailer. Then just repeat to each wheel. You can also check each wheel while its up, spin the wheel and have someone else apply the brake it should stop obviously but this way you can listen for the magnet to engage. I had one that had a broken wire and magnet wasn't engaging.
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:16 PM   #12
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Also, some people like the trailer hooked to the truck and the parking brakes applied as well. Helps ensure that it won't move. I just put my X-chocks in and raise the other side. Doug, you can do this very easily.

On Edit: Can you not slide the actuator all the way over on your brake controller to make it lock them up?

Sorry, been outside doing stuff to the camper today. Sliding the actuator on my brake controller is how I've been doing my pull tests; I squeeze the actuator (factory Ram fontroller) and pull forward. The camper moves a bit and then the brakes lock up. I gunned it a bit yesterday and the camper held me back.

I haven't watched the videos yet.
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:34 PM   #13
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It's actually quite easy to adjust drum brakes. Flat bladed screwdriver works but a cheap brake spoon from a parts store works better. You'll find a toothed wheel in there, you should be able to tighten it by hooking the blade in the teeth and pushing the handle of the driver/spoon up. You should feel it clicking against the spring shown or the adjuster if equipped. Turn the tire in it's normal direction, once you can just hear the shoes dragging then you're there. If you can feel it drag then it's too tight.

If you want to get it even tighter go pull your emergency switch plug and then go rotate the tire in the direction of travel. That will settle the shoes in their new position. Put the plug back in the switch, then go check the adjustment. If you can hear it barely dragging, it's good. If not then it may need a click or two.

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Old 06-15-2014, 08:23 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Sorry, been outside doing stuff to the camper today. Sliding the actuator on my brake controller is how I've been doing my pull tests; I squeeze the actuator (factory Ram fontroller) and pull forward. The camper moves a bit and then the brakes lock up. I gunned it a bit yesterday and the camper held me back.

I haven't watched the videos yet.
That's good it's what it should do, now when you are towing you should feel the trailer brakes tug a bit if you apply them lightly and when you apply the truck brake you should see a response on the brake controller. If you don't you may have to do some minor adjusting on the controller.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:56 AM   #15
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I love this old GIF I got from the old Lippert web site (no longer there ).

The camper must actually MOVE in order for the brakes to engage. That is why pulling the breakaway switch is "NOT chocking the camper" .
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:54 PM   #16
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Doug, have you had time to adjust your brakes yet? I know, I know, we are all busy..just checking in.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:07 PM   #17
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Doug, to me it sounds about right, I push in on my slide when I do it and IT will not lock up til I move about 6 or 8" then they lock solid. And my F250 has a hard time pulling it forward at all. I still feel the pull when I start but do not really lock until that distance.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:19 PM   #18
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My Ford Controller with the lever moved full one takes 6 inches to lock up the brakes on Alko axles. It will hold the whole TT/TV solid.

Brian
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