The last few pull tests that I've done have been done without wheel chocks. I've been relying solely on holding the camper brakes to stop and hold the camper back. The wheels are rotating before locking up. The other day I feel like the camper moved like 18" and today it was like 6". Once the brakes catch, it does hold the camper back. I just don't recall this much rotation the last 2 years.
Normal?
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Needs to be moving for the leading shoe to grab, your 6" description would be about right.
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Thanks for the confirmation. I don't recall it turning before, BUT- I usually chocked the wheels and left the landing gear fully down before (changed that based on input here- specifically OldCoot if I recall correctly).
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When the brake magnet is energized and grabs onto the wheel disc then the camming action pushes the brake shoes out to the brake drum surface completing the braking action. There are a lot of variables to consider starting with the setting on the brake controller to the surface of the roadway.
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You might not remember that much, did you check the brake controls to see if you haven't accidentally changed the settings. Also maybe the brakes need adjusted.
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I know the brake controller hasn't changed (in fact, I tried turning it up to see if it helped).
Adjusting the brakes probably isn't a bad idea to get someone's eyes on. Just need to find a trailer shop that can look at it.
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I'll vote for brake adjustment also. The magnet grabs the drum, then has to rotate with the drum until the cam action pushes the brake shoes against the drum. The closer to optimal adjustment you are, the less the cam will turn before locking it down.
If you have auto adjusters then you're probably just at the limit of what the adjusters can do. It's not unsafe, just not optimum.
I agree with a brake adjustment, if you don't have the auto adjusters on it. Funny, my 6k axles were Never-Adjust but the replacements are manual. It is quite easy to do with a $3 tool from you local auto store, your jacks and blocks. On my new axles, my brakes were never adjusted a the factory or dealer. Here are a couple of videos that show just how easy it is to do.
IF you have manual adjust brakes the brake tool is fine but I've done
it many times with just a flat blade screwdriver.
You CAN do this. The hardest part is raising a wheel so you can spin
the wheel by hand to check when you've got them tight enough.
I tighten mine till the wheel drags some but is not difficult to turn.
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Also, some people like the trailer hooked to the truck and the parking brakes applied as well. Helps ensure that it won't move. I just put my X-chocks in and raise the other side. Doug, you can do this very easily.
On Edit: Can you not slide the actuator all the way over on your brake controller to make it lock them up?
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if you pull one wheel onto 2 pieces of 2x6 one of the wheels on that side should be off the ground enough to do this so you don't have to jack, once up choke the other side of the trailer. Then just repeat to each wheel. You can also check each wheel while its up, spin the wheel and have someone else apply the brake it should stop obviously but this way you can listen for the magnet to engage. I had one that had a broken wire and magnet wasn't engaging.
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Also, some people like the trailer hooked to the truck and the parking brakes applied as well. Helps ensure that it won't move. I just put my X-chocks in and raise the other side. Doug, you can do this very easily.
On Edit: Can you not slide the actuator all the way over on your brake controller to make it lock them up?
Sorry, been outside doing stuff to the camper today. Sliding the actuator on my brake controller is how I've been doing my pull tests; I squeeze the actuator (factory Ram fontroller) and pull forward. The camper moves a bit and then the brakes lock up. I gunned it a bit yesterday and the camper held me back.
I haven't watched the videos yet.
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It's actually quite easy to adjust drum brakes. Flat bladed screwdriver works but a cheap brake spoon from a parts store works better. You'll find a toothed wheel in there, you should be able to tighten it by hooking the blade in the teeth and pushing the handle of the driver/spoon up. You should feel it clicking against the spring shown or the adjuster if equipped. Turn the tire in it's normal direction, once you can just hear the shoes dragging then you're there. If you can feel it drag then it's too tight.
If you want to get it even tighter go pull your emergency switch plug and then go rotate the tire in the direction of travel. That will settle the shoes in their new position. Put the plug back in the switch, then go check the adjustment. If you can hear it barely dragging, it's good. If not then it may need a click or two.
Sorry, been outside doing stuff to the camper today. Sliding the actuator on my brake controller is how I've been doing my pull tests; I squeeze the actuator (factory Ram fontroller) and pull forward. The camper moves a bit and then the brakes lock up. I gunned it a bit yesterday and the camper held me back.
I haven't watched the videos yet.
That's good it's what it should do, now when you are towing you should feel the trailer brakes tug a bit if you apply them lightly and when you apply the truck brake you should see a response on the brake controller. If you don't you may have to do some minor adjusting on the controller.
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Doug, to me it sounds about right, I push in on my slide when I do it and IT will not lock up til I move about 6 or 8" then they lock solid. And my F250 has a hard time pulling it forward at all. I still feel the pull when I start but do not really lock until that distance.
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