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Old 05-08-2012, 07:24 PM   #21
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Thanks herk.

I reread the setup instruction manuals several times trying to find a matching situation but I did not find one, that is the reason I asked here for suggestions. Where I see the issue is the front being lower than when not coupled. I was expecting to see the rear numbers higher than when uncoupled, so I was suprised when it wasn't and just an inch an 1/8 higher than with no WD.

I was even more suprised with the customer reps answers to not remove a washer or something else. I am using 5 washers and the minimum is 4.

If I remove the washer in your estimation how much will the front go up and the back come down? What will happen to the trailer in the front and rear?

Again I realize that everyone here has more experience than I do and probably more than the reps that answered the question on the phone. With that said I am not against removing a washer, but how would the numbers change?

HC
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #22
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I would give it a drive first. Mine was measuring good but the front was light and I did not have any pressure on the arms. I just raises my brackets one hole and the front feels a lot better. Give it a drive and then take one washer out and drive again. You will have a basis for comparison.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:18 PM   #23
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Don't hold me to this but I think my front came down 1/2" when I added 2 thick and one thin washers. My truck has 145" wheelbase. If your is shorter that number of washers will have a greater affect.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:34 PM   #24
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21C1 did the extra washers have an impact on the rear of the truck or the attitude of the trailer?

The wheel base of the 2500 is 140.5"

HC
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:27 PM   #25
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HemiCab,
I again encourage you to experiment within the parameters from Progress and Dodge. It's really the best way and it's fun

You will find that these adjustments are a bit of an art. Not only will your TVs wheelbase have an impact, but so will other things. For instance, the Sequoia I tow with now has light steering without a load and I felt it needed more weight on the front so went to the full 100% (bringing the front wheel well to its unloaded height) that Toyota recommends. Other trucks I've had were happy with only 50%. I've never read good things when people went below the unloaded height in the front, though.


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Old 05-08-2012, 11:01 PM   #26
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Thanks Triguy it sounds like I will drive it down the interstate to the next exit and see how it goes. If it is not going well it is only 6 miles so I can get off and find a church parking lot (In Alabama they are on every intersection) and remove a washer and try it again. Try to find one of those days that there is nothing to HAVE to do...maybe in 2016..lol.

Thanks again for all the input!

HC
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:02 AM   #27
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I can't remember if this has been brought up or not, but check the Dodge owners manual to see what it says about using a WDH. I think there was some discussion a couple of years back that some 3/4 ton trucks suggest not putting more than the empty weight back on the front axles when using a WDH. Something about putting the axles too close to the snubs (stops). I think the article was about Ford 3/4 ton trucks, but not sure.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:47 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCab View Post
21C1 did the extra washers have an impact on the rear of the truck or the attitude of the trailer?

The wheel base of the 2500 is 140.5"

HC
I can't recall what affect it had on the rear. I was more concerned about removing the rise out of the front. The change in the rear could not have been drastic as I did not have to change the ball height. My trailer is still pretty level.

I am surprised that you could get the front of a 3/4 ton ton to settle that much! I have the 1000# hitch at its max and front of my 1/2 ton is level. That 1200# must be pretty rugged. What hole are your L brackets in? Are your torsion bars fairly parallel with the trailer frame?
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:56 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCab View Post
OK got the hitch ball attached and started the setup. Like I think I read on the forum before, if you get it setup correctly the first try you would be lucky!

Well did I get lucky or is the front being pressed down too much? Measurements are below:

Rear wheel well
Uncoupled TV 40.875"
Coupled no WD 38.875"
Coupled with WD 40"

Front wheel well
Uncoupled TV 39.375"
Coupled no WD 39.75"
Coupled with WD 39.125". Is this too much pressure on front end, 1/4" lower than uncoupled?

TT Level
Uncoupled front and back 19.5"
Coupled with WD front 19.375 & back 19.5"
Lets take a stab at this (IMO):

The goal is to have the truck AND camper "ride level."

The reason you measure the truck before you hook up is to have an idea of where "truck level" is to compare it to "truck level" after.

Truck "level" without camper is 40 7/8 inches in back and 39 3/8 in front a difference of 1/2 inch lower in the front when level.

Truck connected but no WD; Back is 38 7/8 inches and the front is 39 3/4 inches which is what you expect to happen before wt distribution. Rear down 2 inches - front up 1/2 inch.

So we connect the WD bars and with the washers as you describe the rear rises to 40 inches and the front becomes 39 1/8 inches.

The difference between the wheel wells "truck level before" and "truck level after" was 1/2 inch and the difference after WD is 7/8 inch.

This is ALMOST perfect.

I would lower the brackets ONE hole and repeat the measurements. If the difference spread gets wider "to the nose UP" side, go back to what you have and it IS perfect.

If the spread is less, use the one hole lower setting as the correct one.
Remember ONE hole equals one washer. If it turns out you need the brackets in the lowered position to be "right" AND you decide that the one hole lower setting is "too low" for the bar tips (the bars are not riding level to the camper's frame and could drag the ground), you can adjust the washers by one if need be.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:59 PM   #30
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mtnguy looked through the truck manual and it only implies that the improper setup and not following the manufacturers recommendations for a WDH could create hazardous driving issues.

21C1 the 1200# bars are quite a bit bigger than the 800# bars I have. The 1200# bars are level to the frame and there are two empty holes at the top of the L-brackets so I am using holes 3 & 4 from the top.

herk I could easily drop the bars down two holes and still not drag the ground. That would roughly equate to removing two washers. I will take a test drive in a few days and see if one hole lower on the L-brackets makes a difference...quicker than the washer removal.

BTW...I forgot to add I sent Progress an email with all the measurements posted here and then called when they did not answer the email...again impatient....below is the response, I truly wonder if he read that the front was high or what?? or if I got a "canned" answer......

Thank you for contacting Progress Mfg regarding your Equal-i-zer set up

Thank you for the detailed email it was very helpful, after reviewing your measurement they look really good you are with in a inch in the back and really close in the front, I would recommend they you take it for a test drive and if everything feels good, I would leave your set up the way it is. If you did want to try and raise the back end up a little more and lower your front you could try adding one more spacer washer or go up one hole on the L- brackets. If you have any further questions or concerns please feel free to get back with me.

Again thanks for the input!

HC
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