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Old 06-11-2014, 08:00 AM   #41
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They now make "jackets" for the L brackets that almost eliminate the low speed "grinding noise" when making large turns like at the campground.

Sway Bracket Jacket (pair) : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:07 AM   #42
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They now make "jackets" for the L brackets that almost eliminate the low speed "grinding noise" when making large turns like at the campground.

Sway Bracket Jacket (pair) : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store
Yes they do , but you cant use them with the new quick release L pins.
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/...roducts_id=115

I still like painting L and bar ends with mower guard. when the paint wears off the metal is black from embedded graphite
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:08 AM   #43
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I have had mine for over 7 yrs and still works like it should. I never unhook when backing in. I take steel wool to the L brackets if they look rusty and it helps with noise.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:16 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
They now make "jackets" for the L brackets that almost eliminate the low speed "grinding noise" when making large turns like at the campground.

Sway Bracket Jacket (pair) : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store
These will also reduce some sway.. I guess it comes down to how much someone really is concerned about sway or noise. I'd never look at somebody funny pulling into a campground all noisy. First thing I say is..."He's got a nice hitch"
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:26 AM   #45
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I went with a reese strait line and unlubed it can be noisy on turns. A bit of boat wheel bearing grease (as it's less messy and waterproof) on the contacting parts (and ball too) keeps it quiet.
I use a paper towel to apply it so I don't even get my hands dirty.
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Old 06-13-2014, 12:33 PM   #46
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I've used the sway-bracket-jackets for a couple of seasons now. Yes, they do warn you that those 2 points of sway control will be slightly reduced in effectiveness. But I've had zero decrease in stability.

I used to get near-constant loud-grinding throughout turns. Now, I will only get a loud "pop" when I start to straighten out mid-turn. I think this is when 1 f the bars is loaded up against one of the L-pins, and is suddenly released as it's unloaded.

As far as using the jackets with the new-style L-pins, I thought Equal-I-zer was working on a solution? Did they not design a jacket to work with the new hardware?
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Old 06-13-2014, 07:28 PM   #47
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When I ordered my jackets around the end of April they still said they only worked with the old style L-pins which is what I have on my hitch. Just looked and the snap L-pins still say they are not compatible with the jackets.
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Old 06-16-2014, 03:40 PM   #48
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I guess I'll continue using the old-style hardware. I'm not going without those jackets anymore! And honestly, I can't see myself loosing any clips, since I always reinstall these onto the L-pins/socket-pins/bars when not in use.

(...OK, knocking on wood....)
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Old 06-16-2014, 05:50 PM   #49
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Think this guy needs a Equal-i-zer WDH ???

This came into the cg last weekend.. If you look close 1 chain and its dragging. That is on level ground by the way. A friend and I darn near spilled our beer watching.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:15 PM   #50
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A bit off the thread subject, but does anybody know the best place to buy the Equalizer WDH? Best price I have found sp far os $514.99 thru Amazon w/free shipping or a seller on ebay at $499.99 with the shipping.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:29 PM   #51
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A bit off the thread subject, but does anybody know the best place to buy the Equalizer WDH? Best price I have found sp far os $514.99 thru Amazon w/free shipping or a seller on ebay at $499.99 with the shipping.
Here is the best deal. I have bought two from here.
10K Equal-i-zer 4-Point Sway Control - RVWholesalers.com RV Parts and Accessories
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:31 PM   #52
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GL1800Rider your on topic imo
X2 on best price

or http://www.adventurerv.net/equalizer...source=Froogle
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:34 PM   #53
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GL1800Rider your on topic imo
X2 on best price
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I bought mine through PPL Motorhomes. After shipping would be the same price as RV Wholesalers. When I bought mine they were about $30 cheaper. I received it less than a week after ordering. Here is the link: Weight Distribution Hitches - PPL Motor Homes
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:01 PM   #54
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Thanks for all the replies. I will order in the morning. New TT should be here by the 29th (fingers crossed). I can probably tow it home with my old 10000/1000 set up but will need the 12000/1200 once I get it loaded.

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Old 06-17-2014, 07:35 AM   #55
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Thanks for all the replies. I will order in the morning. New TT should be here by the 29th (fingers crossed). I can probably tow it home with my old 10000/1000 set up but will need the 12000/1200 once I get it loaded.

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Is your old 1,000 setup an Equal-I-zer? If so, I believe the 10k and 12k heads are the same. If I'm correct, you may only need to upgrade the spring bars to 1200s. You would want to confirm that with customer service (I hear they are great to work with).
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:12 AM   #56
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1200 Equalizer

I just completed two 8 hour pulls, and couldn't be happier with my Equalizer. My wife lived through a head on collision a number of years ago, and to say she is a nervous passenger would be the understatement of the year. I was almost considering selling my trailer due to her fear while towing with my old Draw-Tite round bar with 750 lb arms.

I ordered mine from RV Wholesalers, and it arrived in about a week. I had it shipped to a drop box in Pembina ND and picked it up there. I'm only 60 miles from the border.

RV Wholesalers however no longer carry the socket for ball installation on the hitch. I did have a 1 7/8 socket, but it did not fit on the ball nut due to clearance issues going in. I took a sip of the Kool-Aid, and ordered the socket directly from Equalizer. It cost me $97 by the time I got it to Canada. Equalizer lists its size as 1 in drive, but it is actually three quarter inch. You will also need a 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 (depending on the make of the ball) combination wrench to hold the ball in place while you are applying 430-450 ft/lbs of torque.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:30 AM   #57
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I got my socket from tractor supply for around $12

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Old 06-17-2014, 11:04 AM   #58
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I got my socket from tractor supply for around $12

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Bought mine there also along with a combination wrench to fit the two bolts/nuts that attach the head to the shank.

My largest torque wrench only goes to 250 Lbs so I decided to have the final torquing done at a dealer since it is a one time shot. I have a Camping World nearby and they torqued everything on the head to spec for me for a $25 fee.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:18 PM   #59
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My old WDH was by CP products (looks just like the Curt) trunion style 10K/1K. New trailer will likely have about 1175 tongue weight. Just ordered the 12K equalizer from RVW for $449.98 shipped. My dealer quoted me $706 for the same thing.

I also ordered a Curt Class 5 receiver for $206 from Amazon with a 1500# tongue weight capacity. My 2000 F250 only has a 10k/1K receiver and the next year they changed it to a class 5 with a 12,500/1250 without changing the truck.

Thanks everybody for all the help. Now all I need is my new TT
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:14 AM   #60
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At 1175lbs, I would seriously consider the 1400 lbs unit! In my opinion, being so close to the limit can have the spring bars acting too "springy" which I believe is what contributes to the "porpoising" phenomenon that everybody hates. 200-225 overrated is nothing for a WDH. I have 700lbs TW and have to use the 1000lb Equalizer (they don't make an 800). Great combo.

Not to mention, if 1175 is your estimate, you could easily go over 1200 based on packing fluxuations. If you call Equalizer customer service, I'm sure they would recommend the 1400.

Finally, the 1400 would protect you if you decide to upgrade in a few years.
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