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Old 07-07-2019, 10:41 AM   #1
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Wiring help!

Had a tremendous mistake on my last trip. Forgot to plug in the trailer to the tow vehicle. (Cue ridicule, but it wonít make me feel any worse than Iíve made myself feel.)
Dragged it for about 40 miles before dawning why it was towing so differently. Stopped and the whole side of the plug was sheared off. Plugged it in, but I think it was upside down as the notch was the part that was sheared off. Now, I have since replaced the entire trailer side wiring harness with a completely new junction box. Still wouldnít work and said to have brakes on the trailer serviced.
Looked at the plug on my truck and one of the terminals is basically burnt out. No blown fuses or anything just the terminal for the white wire. I would like to know if by changing out the vehicle side wiring socket; with no blown fuses or anything, in ones opinion, should that solve my problem?
I know every situation is different, Iím just grasping for a lifeline here.
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:52 AM   #2
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Relax. Generally the white wire is the ground and if it is burned off you probably rotated the trailer plug and might have fed brake power directly to ground. Replace the tow side and go from there.
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Old 07-10-2019, 04:59 AM   #3
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Thanks for the help. Iíve re-wired the truck and it checks out. Plugging in the camper, I have everything but left brake light and turn signal.
Thoughts?
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Old 07-10-2019, 05:22 AM   #4
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Stop and turn is the same wire. Left turn wire is Yellow at the trailer. Tow vehicle may have a different color.
Choices (depending on tow vehicle):
No particular priority, but, the list starts at the tow vehicle.
1. Bad LT relay
2. Bad LT fuse
3. bad connection somewhere between fuse and tow vehicle connector
4. Dirty contact at connector
5. Bad connection between trailer plug and LT light.
6. Bad LT bulb
7. Bad/no ground at LT bulb (usually indicated by a very dim flashing LT bulb due to system using tail light circuit as ground).

Long list, but, fairly easy to work through.
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Old 07-10-2019, 05:23 AM   #5
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Do you have a volt meter or something to check to see if you have power? I would start at the TV end and see if you have power at the TV for every function. This will tell you if you have issues on the TV side. Very easy to do and you will not chase your tail trying to figure things out. If I had to guess you might have a poor ground but thatís just a wild guess. Good luck!
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:33 AM   #6
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You don't say which tow vehicle you have, but some tow vehicles have towing fuses in a different location than onboard fuses. Also be sure to test the fuses, and not just look at them. A lot of times they'll look good but be blown.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:45 AM   #7
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This should help...
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
You don't say which tow vehicle you have, but some tow vehicles have towing fuses in a different location than onboard fuses. Also be sure to test the fuses, and not just look at them. A lot of times they'll look good but be blown.
How true. On mine the manufacturer added a pair of fuses to protect the Body Control Module if someone had the same problem as the OP.

Because they were essentially a "recall". the fuses are behind the carpet near the accelerator pedal. Probably in a fuse block in later models but heaven help anyone who purchased one in the same model/year and tries to find the fuses for the brake/turn lights

PS: The tech at the dealership called me aside and showed me where to find them if I needed to. Nice guy.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:48 AM   #9
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I’ve checked the tow vehicle with the plug in type tester. It appears I have all functions at the 7 pin socket.
I have a Silverado 2500HD 2012. I’ve checked the fuses on the truck and none seem blown. Should I do a continuity test on each of them? Also are the fuses all inside on the trailer side?
I have a Wildwood Xlite, 2014
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badtriangle View Post
I’ve checked the tow vehicle with the plug in type tester. It appears I have all functions at the 7 pin socket.
OK... so using the schematic I posted earlier, check the corresponding wire on the trailer side and make sure you have all your connections correct there.

Test (with a 12v test lamp or multimeter) at the junction box and then at the rear of the trailer. (with t/signal on of course)

I've never seen any fuses on the trailer side for running/stop/turn lights. That is all protected by the tow vehicle.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:34 PM   #11
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Update: I have checked my connections in the junction box and they all seem ok.
I checked the actual bulb and one of the filaments is burned out. I also used a volt meter to test the socket while the turn signal was active and registered 11-12 volts that alternated with the clicking of the signal. I think I just need a bulb. (Fingers crossed. This has been a huge PITA)
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:12 PM   #12
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While it might have been what seems a huge PITA... remember... you have learned how to check and diagnose a 12v electrical issue.

You are now able to do what many others wish they could do or have to pay even more HUGE money just to get it checked.

There's a silver lining in every cloud.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:16 PM   #13
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Very true! Thanks for the perspective. It was definitely a life lesson. We now have a top to bottom/front to back check list before taking off!
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