Would the Tacoma be a viable TV for a Surveyor SV-264?

kheim · 04-13-2010, 09:38 AM

I am considering buying a Surveyor SV-264 before the end of May and was wondering what everyones thoughts were on towing it with a late-model Toyota Tacoma V6 with Tow package. I would prefer to have the short-bed versus the long-bed but the wheelbase recommendations may dictate that I get the long bed. The facts that I have are as follows:

Toyota Tacoma Info:

Tacoma Max Tow Weight - 6500 lbs
Tacoma Max Tongue Weight - 650 lbs
Short-bed wheelbase - 127.4
Long-bed wheelbase -140.6

Surveyor SV-264 Info:

Actual dry weight of TT - 4764
GVW of trailer - 7000
Tongue weight of trailer - 481
Overall length of trailer - 28'6"

I am located in Southern Indiana with mostly flat and rolling hill terrain and have no intention of travelling far distances outside of local camping in Southern Indiana.

The dealer says they use the Equalizer WD hitch w/sway control and said i could use the prodigy brake controller also but they would have to order it. The one they stock and use is a Reese Drawtite controller.

What is everyones thoughts regarding towing this with the Tacoma? I haven't purchased the truck yet either, so I was hoping for some feedback!

Thanks,
Kurt

**bikendan** · 04-13-2010, 01:01 PM

i wouldn't even attempt it, especially if you haven't bought the Tacoma, yet. if you really want that trailer/floorplan, get something that will tow it comfortably. and 28' with that short a wheelbase is not a good idea, IMHO.

i have a feeling you might be under the misconception that a truck v-6 engine gets much better gas mileage than truck v-8 engine.

we were looking at a 23' trailer that's UVW is 4,500lbs. started looking at the Ridgeline, which has a v-6. i found that the Avalanche with a v-8 got only 1 mpg less than the Ridgeline but had over a ton more towing capacity.

the newer v-8's get almost the same mpg because of their ability to go to v-4. and you'll get better gas mileage towing with the v-8 over the v-6.

do some research before you decide on the Tacoma. i'm so glad i did and went to a truck that could tow my trailer's GVWR. i love my Avalanche and the DW, who wanted the Ridgeline, now is so glad we didn't get it.

rlocicero · 04-13-2010, 01:11 PM

FORD, buy a Ford. Best truck on the market for towing. The 5.4L motor will give you good mileage under normal use and tows my 829fkss with no problem at all. Before this, we had a 7200 lb Holiday Rambler Savoy and the Ford did a good job with that.

MtnGuy · 04-13-2010, 01:14 PM

kheim, 1st off

to the forum.

You are wise to be asking questions before your purchases.

If I already had the long wheel based Taco, I might be tempted to try the setup to see how it worked.......but not with the short wheelbase version. A quick rule of thumb is to multiply the overall trailer length by 5, and that is what the minimum wheel base (in inches) of the truck should be. Also, you can go by this chart:

110" 20' ******* 150" 30'
114" 21' ******* 154" 31'
118" 22' ******* 158" 32'
122" 23' ******* 162" 33'
126" 24' ******* 166" 34'
130" 25' ******* 170" 35'
134" 26' ******* 174" 36'
138" 27' ******* 178" 37'
142" 28' ******* 182" 38'
146" 29' ******* 186" 39'

I have the sister ship of the SV 264.....the SV 263. My 145" wheelbase F150 does an excellent job, but I don't think I would want to pull with anything smaller.

Have you considered a Tundra ??

kheim · 04-13-2010, 02:41 PM

I was thinking about the Tundra also and the wife even mentioned just pulling the trigger also and buy a used Tundra with the 5.7L. That will probably tow anything I will ever put behind it. The other thing going for the Tundra is that they aren't holding their value like the Tacomas are. A used Tacoma is darn near as much as a new one! I definitely want the double cab because my kids are 4 and 2 and they are still in a booster and child seats yet and I want to be able to haul the family when we are not pulling anything.

Three of the other families that we will be camping with have purchased the Salem 26TBUD last fall and I believe they are towing them with a F-150, a Tahoe, and a Dodge Durango with the V8 engine.

Sounds like I need to seriously look at the Tundra!

Does everyone think the sway control and brake control are the way to go?

Kurt

carlm · 04-13-2010, 03:49 PM

Hi Kurt,

I tow a G218 Gazelle with my 2009 long bed Tacoma. The G-218, all-in, is about 5200 lbs. wet. The trailer handles well, and the Tacoma preforms admirably on the flats, however it is a horror-show on the hills.

In spite of the Gazelle's narrower profile, the wind resistance at 100 kph, combined with a moderate grade, really taxes the V6. Originally, I, like you, felt that I was just going to travel in a limited radius around my home base. Now I find myself wanting to go much further afield, but I can't until I pay the damn Tacoma off and replace it with something with more ooomph.

Truthfully, I really like my Tacoma; but as a tow vehicle for anything other than a pop-up or an r-pod, it really sucks.

Carl

MtnGuy · 04-13-2010, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kheim

Does everyone think the sway control and brake control are the way to go?

Kurt

I understand that the Equalizer is a great system, as well as the Reese Straight Line.....either 1 should serve you well.

The Prodigy is an inertia brake controller....definitely the way to go. Another good 1 is the Valley Odyssey. Don't let them talk you into a time delay unit. The inertia brake controllers sense how fast you are braking, and apply the brakes accordingly. A time delay system is just that......the brakes are applied at the rate that you set up, regardless of how fast you are slowing down.

**bikendan** · 04-13-2010, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kheim

Does everyone think the sway control and brake control are the way to go? Kurt

brake controller is required by law. the trailer has its own electric brakes so you have to have a BC to work them. the Prodigy is the most popular.

and you'll need a weight distributing hitch, not just sway control. the Equalizer and Reese Dual-Cam are the most popular and both have built-in sway control.

VAlover · 04-16-2010, 08:25 AM

We had this same question a year ago when we were purchasing our SV263. The TT sales people, of course, said the set-up would be fine. After discusion on this forum, we decided it wasn't worth the risk and traded the Tacoma for a Tundra. Hubby had wanted the Tundra from the git-go, so he was happy. It was the best decision - the Tundra, TT and Blue-ox combo is perfect! Would not have wanted to try it with the Tacoma. Many thanks to all the good people on this forum who conviced us the 'Taco' was not the best choice!

kheim · 04-18-2010, 03:05 PM

Well I have decided on the Tundra in the best interest of safety for the family and also cargo capability. We have been looking at Tundra's the last few days and can't make up my mind on Double-Cab or Crew-Max cab. I have my mind made up on definitely getting the 5.7L V8! The ride of the Tundra by itself is so much smoother than the Tacoma. Thanks for everyones input and opinions! Hopefully we can decide on a truck and go purchase the Surveyor and get camping!!!!!

Kurt

acadianbob · 04-19-2010, 10:47 AM

We pull a SV235RKS with a 5.4 F150 and I wouldn't want anything less. The 235 and 264 are very similar in weight/length. So, you have made the right decision on TV. (full-size). I think you will really like the SV264 also. Happy camping!!

kheim · 04-19-2010, 01:05 PM

This might be a question that I should have another post for, but I was wondering about the leveling jacks on the SV264 and those of you that have the 263. Are these the flip down style ones and if they are should we be upgrading to the screw style jacks. I've heard throughout the forums some issues with the factory jacks!

Can anyone offer their insight on this, because if we need to replace them, I want to do it before we purchase the camper. Any jacks in particular better than others brand and model wise?

Thanks for the help!

Kurt

MtnGuy · 04-19-2010, 01:34 PM

We have the RV corner post jacks that came standard on our SV 263.....not the heavy duty style scissors jacks . Other than 1 jack binding up when we bought the camper (the dealer fixed it), we haven't had a problem. I am careful about putting too much pressure on them, but only so much can be applied when using the stock winding tool.

acadianbob · 04-19-2010, 02:02 PM

OK, they are not leveling jacks; they are stabilizing jacks. We first level our trailer side-to-side with wheel blocks, then chock the wheels, then level front to back with the tongue jack. THEN, we put down the stabilizers to steady the trailer. Try the factory setup. If it is unsatisfactory to you, then spend the cash for scissors jacks. FYI, I think it helps to have chocks for both sides of the trailer. I have a friend who did scissors jacks and still feels he has too much movement. In that case, you may need to tri-angulate from the base of the jack to the trailer. I've seen products for this purpose. If you have kids running around and are sensitive to movement, you may want to do more than factory. We, on the other hand, are just fine with the factory setup.

kheim · 04-21-2010, 06:12 PM

Thanks once again for the feedback. Sounds like we will try the factory setup and see if we need to go any furthur with it! By the way, we purchased a proper tow vehicle this past Monday. We purchased a 2008 Tundra Double Cab with the TRD Off-Road package and the 5.7L V8 engine, so I guess our next step is to drive it to the camper dealer and hopefully purchase the Surveyor SV264. Our first camping date with some other families is the end of May.

Next question is "Does the Surveyor line have any levelling bubbles on it or how do you recommend getting it level?)

Thanks for everyones help and I'll probably have more questions to post once we get the camper!!!! I'm a rookie camper.

Kurt

Steeljag · 04-21-2010, 07:19 PM

You have a new camper ....and a new truck....and the ability to wait a month to go camping........no way could I do that !!

Happy for ya........enjoy ALL of it !!

We just carry a level with us.......and get it as close as we can !!

Good luck.......HAPPY CAMPING !!!

kheim · 04-21-2010, 08:01 PM

Well we don't have the camper yet!!!!!!

Just the truck right now.

The place we are looking at that has the camper is over in Cincinnati, a 3.5 hr drive, and they only have one on the lot and it is a 2010 model that is new yet; so I better hurry before it is gone! Gotta get it while it is on clearance.

Kurt

acadianbob · 04-21-2010, 08:33 PM

No leveling bubbles on our Surveyor. I just keep a small 6 to 8 inch low plastic bubble level in my "trailer toolbox". Put it on the floor inside the door of the trailer. Crossways for side to side and then longitudinally for front to back. works great, cheap, not fancy.

flyrotor · 04-21-2010, 10:01 PM

Go to walmart or look online at RV parts dealers for the inexpensive levels, some use double sided tape, others use a screw, set your trailer up level, use a carpenters level and check several flat surfaces such as the floor above the frame, the rear bumper,etc, then attach float bubbles. Caution, don't trust only the tongue, may or may not be level with the floor of the trailer.

MtnGuy · 04-22-2010, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kheim

Next question is "Does the Surveyor line have any levelling bubbles on it or how do you recommend getting it level?)

Kurt

I don't think many travel trailers come with an installed bubble level. I have 1 of those cheapo stick-on bubble levels on my trailer frame tongue (for forward/backwards leveling) , and another on the front cross member under the trailer (for side to side leveling). A trip or 2 back to the tongue, adding chock blocks where needed will get my close to level.....those 2 sided tape levels tend to move a little, but will get you close. I finish up with a little torpedo level on the floor right inside of the door. The stab jacks will lift the trailer just enough to fine tune.

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