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Old 03-31-2019, 05:21 PM   #21
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I had a 2011 supercab pulling a similar' slightly heavier and shorter trailer. Yes, I believe you could tow it but you might not be very happy.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:11 PM   #22
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[...] We will reinvestigate our options. I do not want to be overly nervous about what I'm towing. Camping should be fun.
As you read, with the right 1/2 ton, others tow trailers like yours. For me, I don't have the right 1/2 ton. Camping last year was stressful because of my truck. We were on the side of the road a couple of times letting engine/transmission cool down. We struggled up hills. Had to cancel one trip altogether because we just couldn't get up the I-70 pass (11,000'). It was a mess.

My wife was so sick of that, that it was an immediate green light for a new diesel (for now and the next decade+ of heavier trailers).

Good luck.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:24 PM   #23
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No harm in that decision at all. An alternate way of finding your payload is the next time you and the family are hanging out, pile everyone in the truck and run through a CAT scale. Gas up completely first. It'll cost you about $20 and 15 minutes and will be an adventure.

Take that number and subtract it from your GVWR (Should be like 7k lbs or something).

That will be the real number you have to work with for tongue weight and "crap in the bed" when going camping.

And tongue weight when loaded is a lot more than what they publish in the brochure. Guessing 150-200lbs more by time you add propane, clothes etc.

A lot depends on where you are towing and how far. Flat to rolling hills 50-60 miles away is completely different than "Every time we go it's a five mile climb up and back down a 7% grade in both directions with switchbacks."

Lastly, I don't think power will be your issue. Note the 3/4 ton gassers don't make that much more than the 5.0l. It'll all be what you are comfortable with. The 3.31 just means you'll be in second rather than third.
Save your money and go to your local garbage dump station or gravel pit. I've done it for free.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:51 PM   #24
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Save your money and go to your local garbage dump station or gravel pit. I've done it for free.


That doesn’t give you per-axle weights which are pretty important.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:58 PM   #25
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That doesn’t give you per-axle weights which are pretty important.
While that is true...

Going to the gravel pit weigh station at least they can find out where they stand...

Better than not getting weighed at all...

Which is where most RV'ers are these days and don't have a clue and don't care about it.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:02 PM   #26
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Would you tow this.. with my truck?

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While that is true...



Going to the gravel pit weigh station at least they can find out where they stand...



Better than not getting weighed at all...



Which is where most RV'ers are these days and don't have a clue and don't care about it.


Yes, better than nothing but isn’t a replacement for a proper weigh at a CAT scale which was my point in response to someone saying to “save their money” and do that instead of a proper CAT weigh.
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:01 PM   #27
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Would tow. Be careful.
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:45 PM   #28
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My first trailer was a 26 ft Wildwood, no slides, about 5,000 lbs dry with a little short-bed stepside F-150 with a 4.6 litre V-8 with automatic, a 3.42 rear end and tow package. Ford said it had a 6,800 lb. tow capacity.

On my way back from Michigan with the new RV I could barely get back over the Allegheny Mountains in central PA. The small V-8 and high axle ratio really didn't offer much pulling power for hills. I am sure my braking capacity was minimal as well.

We dumped that truck and went to a 3/4 ton Suburban with an 8.1 litre V-8 and 3.73 gears. Much stronger for towing and braking!

So many of us try to skate by with an out-manned half-ton but it's just not worth the safety risks.
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:20 PM   #29
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I am sure my braking capacity was minimal as well.

We dumped that truck and went to a 3/4 ton Suburban with an 8.1 litre V-8 and 3.73 gears. Much stronger for towing and braking!

Under normal conditions, the truck brakes should only be working to slow the truck, the trailer's brakes slowing the trailer. The only time inadequate truck brakes should impact you is if the trailer's brakes fail or are improperly adjusted.


Many people think the truck's brakes are supposed to help slow the trailer under normal conditions, that's not the case. If that's what you're experiencing then you need to inspect and adjust your trailer's brakes as well as your brake controller.


The last thing you want is to brake hard and have the trailer push you into the ditch or into the other lane because it's not able to slow itself down.
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:42 PM   #30
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Tow

You are going to be close to limit on cargo when filling propane and adding battery. If you have a good WDH, tow it somewhere on flat ground and see. As ours have said, you usually run out of cargo capacity first, and trailer ULW is almost always understated and not accurate.
I would not tow w/o a good WDH, only you can say.
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:23 AM   #31
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What is the payload/ Cargo Carrying Capability of your truck that is listed on the sticker on your drivers side door?


THAT is the number that usually gets close or over limits on half ton pickups.


Add your UVW+CCC=GVWR for the trailer

6134+1466=7600 lbs.


Hitch weight unloaded is 11.8% according to manufacture (728/6138=11.8%)


So take 11.8% of GVWR

7600 x .118= 897 lbs.


That is our guess at your fully loaded Tongue weight when loaded to full GVWR. It could be more or less, depending on where you load items and their weight. Again, this is a GUESS used to see if your anywhere close.

Add 100 lbs. for your hitch, the weight of your passengers you will be taking and anything else you are going to put into the trucks cab or truck bed.

If that number exceeds your Payload/CCC number I referred to previously from your trucks door sticker, your too heavy.

***JUST OPINION****
I personally, like to be under that significantly as extra safety margin. I'll also offer the opinion that a 7000 lb. 30' trailer more than I would tow with any half ton pickup. I just traded in a 26' trailer that was 4500 lbs empty, 6000 loaded that made some trips less than enjoyable.
Thanks Cincy.. your insight... and math skills are appreciated. [emoji1]
Seriously... take a look at this revised option and offer

I own 2013 F150 STX Extra cab.
2wd SWB
3.31 gear
Regular tow package
5.0 v8
Tow rating: 8100 pounds.
Payload: 1692 pounds

Should I tow this:

Before
2019 Coachmen Spirit 2758rb
Hitch Weight: 728 lb.
UVW 6134 lb.
CCC 1466 lb.
Exterior Length: 30' 11"

New choice:
2019 Grey Wolf 23mk
Hitch Weight: 608 lb.
GVWR: 7608 lb.
UVW: 5063 lb.
CCC: 2545 lb.
Exterior Lenght: 28 ft

Extra information: 99% of the time it is only my wife and I and two 20 pound dogs in the truck.

I have been camping since 2005.. never had any water in the tanks. Never boondocked.

For the most part we are weekend warriors. Travel within 100 miles if home. We are in Tennessee... so depending on which direction we go.. could be a hill or two. Some longer uphill, interstate grades too. (not terribly steep.. but maybe a few miles long)
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:30 AM   #32
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Thanks Cincy.. your insight... and math skills are appreciated. [emoji1]
Seriously... take a look at this revised option and offer

I own 2013 F150 STX Extra cab.
2wd SWB
3.31 gear
Regular tow package
5.0 v8
Tow rating: 8100 pounds.
Payload: 1692 pounds

Should I tow this:

Before
2019 Coachmen Spirit 2758rb
Hitch Weight: 728 lb.
UVW 6134 lb.
CCC 1466 lb.
Exterior Length: 30' 11"

New choice:
2019 Grey Wolf 23mk
Hitch Weight: 608 lb.
GVWR: 7608 lb.
UVW: 5063 lb.
CCC: 2545 lb.
Exterior Lenght: 28 ft

Extra information: 99% of the time it is only my wife and I and two 20 pound dogs in the truck.

I have been camping since 2005.. never had any water in the tanks. Never boondocked.

For the most part we are weekend warriors. Travel within 100 miles if home. We are in Tennessee... so depending on which direction we go.. could be a hill or two. Some longer uphill, interstate grades too. (not terribly steep.. but maybe a few miles long)
Plus.. I realize the GVWR of the campers is similar... but the CCC is different. In either camper.. we would probably NEVER carry over 1000 pounds of stuff.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:20 AM   #33
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Would tow. Be careful.
Tell that to the driver that is in a hurry to get in front of you to make that slow turn into the next parking lot.

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Old 04-01-2019, 10:22 AM   #34
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No, I would not.
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:17 PM   #35
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Without throwing any numbers at you. I have learned over the years that if you’re asking yourself, can I do this with that. Your gut is telling you something. I always listen to my gut. That’s why I now have my 3/4 ton truck instead of my beloved 1/2 ton. Just food for thought.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:26 PM   #36
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Long story.. but payload sticker is gone.
I think you can get what you need, online or from a dealer, with you VIN.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:35 PM   #37
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[...] we would probably NEVER carry over 1000 pounds of stuff.
Maybe so, but there are a lot of items that are added to the trailer by the factory and/or dealer that don't figure into the fictional dry weights. The 1,000 lb approximation isn't just about what the owner puts into the trailer. It's the batteries, propane, A/C units, awnings, and myriad other things that may or may not be in that factory dry weight.

Things add up super fast, too. Cookware, food, clothes, shoes/boots, shower items and toiletries, bedding, and on and on. Between what you add, the factory adds, and the dealer adds, you hit (and exceed) that 1,000 lbs pretty quickly.

Good luck.
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:02 AM   #38
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Maybe so, but there are a lot of items that are added to the trailer by the factory and/or dealer that don't figure into the fictional dry weights. The 1,000 lb approximation isn't just about what the owner puts into the trailer. It's the batteries, propane, A/C units, awnings, and myriad other things that may or may not be in that factory dry weight.

Things add up super fast, too. Cookware, food, clothes, shoes/boots, shower items and toiletries, bedding, and on and on. Between what you add, the factory adds, and the dealer adds, you hit (and exceed) that 1,000 lbs pretty quickly.

Good luck.
Thank you.
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Old 04-03-2019, 07:32 PM   #39
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Hi Chuck

I think you'll be happier with the shorter trailer. As some have said, the longer trailer with a 1/2 ton truck can feel "uncomfortable" and who wants that when you're going out to have fun with the family. I have the Super Crew version of your truck (but an '11) and we tow a TT that is 24' bumper to hitch. We have a BlueOx WDH and it is properly adjusted. We've never had any white knuckle times (knock on wood) BUT, I really don't think I'd want to be towing anything longer. We've put 3,000 miles on this TT with the F150 and probably another 250 or so on a slightly smaller Jayco. We travel in southern CA mountains and into Arizona and Nevada.

I think you made the right decision and hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of the new TT!
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Old 04-04-2019, 11:37 AM   #40
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If it was me I would buy the camper. Short trips that you take should not be a problem. I have seen people pull a fifth wheel with a F-150. It seems like you just take short trips and y’all aren’t in a big hurry to get to the campground. Buy the camper. I have been camping ten years now and a whole lot of miles, I know very little about weights. I have owned five campers and I have yet to run one across scales. You will know pulling the camper if you have to much camper. Just get a good WDH and have fun
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