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Old 10-26-2014, 05:19 PM   #21
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I don't think power is the issue. Or tow rating. Suspension just soft like a Cadillac.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:45 PM   #22
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If you check the towing section of your Tundra owner manual it will tell you your tow capacity with and without WDH (mine is 4760/10300). If you are feeling uncomfortable with the handling characteristics, I would go with WDH. That would retain the current handling when not towing.

As a point of interest, I went to a 10 ply LT tire


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Old 10-27-2014, 03:58 PM   #23
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Crew max configuration by chance?
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:27 PM   #24
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Your dry hitch weight (per Forest River site) is 468lbs.
Unloaded trailer is 3865lbs.
So bone dry, you are already at 12%. That seems high for the empty trailer until you consider the layout, with the bathroom, fridge, and wardrobe against the rear wall. This type of layout will likely do better at balancing the forward cargo in the passthru, and the LP/battery on the tongue. But your probably still going to be at least 13% once loaded to go.

Probably 4500lbs loaded * 13% is 585lbs TW.

Does that surprise you? Still think you don't need a WDH? Your truck's manual should tell you clearly at what TW they recommend and/or require a WDH, and I'll bet it's like most....500 lbs.

Get a WDH. It will solve the problems you list, plus something more important:
Getting lost front axle weight back on the front wheels to give you more stability.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:58 PM   #25
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You need a wdh. Period

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Old 10-27-2014, 07:22 PM   #26
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You know I really didn't think I did, its a very light TT as TTs go and my truck is as capable as or more than any half ton much less a SUV or minivan. I realize now I do indeed need one, not that I COULDNT pull it without one, but to do it safely, I don't see where I have a choice after further review. I guess I was sorta scared of one for some reason but after a ton of research in the last few days, they are not rocket science. THanks for the replies and opinions, NOW one more question, when you choose a spring rate, do you base it on a static weight, or do you have to allow for dynamic forces while moving, in other words, would I go with a 600lb spring rate or 1000lb to be safe.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:41 PM   #27
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I would go with the 800 lb bars. Max tongue weight (15% of 4855 lb gvwr is 725lbs). You asked for teaching info for wdh... Here you go.

How wdh works.

Travel trailer hitch set up procedure.

Honestly the absolute best thing g you could ever do for yourself is to go weigh your rig. Weigh your truck with all passengers, pets and gear in the truck that will be in it when towing plus a full tank of fuel. Put front axle on scale pad 1 and rear axle on scale pad 2. Make a second pass with trailer hooked to truck (no wdh). Have truck positioned same as first weigh but put the trailer on the third scale pad. The difference in truck weight is your tongue weight. The difference in total ticket weights will be your tt weight. I bet your front axle list a bunch of weight and your rear axle gained a bunch of weight. Now weigh the truck and trailer with your new wdh. The goal is to get your front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. To find a scale go to Catscale.com or try a look feed store or dump.

You will find your handling is night and day different.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:42 PM   #28
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Mine's 4000lb. (It's what my dealer sold me. Hopefully it's correct.) I haven't had any problems in 3 seasons.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:54 PM   #29
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I would definitely second (or third) the suggestion of a weight distribution system... Equal-I-zer works great for me. My only issue is remembering my Apex is back there.
My P rated tires are the only thing I'm looking to change on my current setup... But that's a couple years down the road... Runs fine for now, but I know the LT's will improve handling.


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Old 10-27-2014, 11:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asquared View Post
I would go with the 800 lb bars. Max tongue weight (15% of 4855 lb gvwr is 725lbs).
X2 - please go get it weighed with all your camping stuff on board.
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