2008 Charleston Westinghouse TV Replacement

chuckndi · 06-22-2018, 06:37 AM

I am trying to replace my original front Westinghouse TV but can't remove it. I removed 4 screws from the wooden frame surrounding the TV but it still won't budge. Also, there is a cable TV connection in the electrical power bay but I can't locate the other end of the cable. I thought it would be in the cabinet with the other cables but apparently not. Maybe behind the TV? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chuck

SeaDog · 06-23-2018, 08:12 AM

Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. Look and see if there isn't a small lever that has to be moved on top of the TV bracket to allow it to come free.

chuckndi · 06-23-2018, 09:15 AM

Thanks Seadog. I checked and don't see a lever. The flat screen is mounted pretty tight against the frame. I added a couple of pics (hopefully) for clarity.

Much appreciated,
Chuck

SeaDog · 06-23-2018, 09:19 AM

Glad you included pics this is like my old Class A and to realize the TV I had to go in from the side cabinets and unbolt the hold down arms. that was on a winnebago so may not be the same with your but take a look.

chuckndi · 06-23-2018, 10:09 AM

There are indeed 2 screws in each cabinet. I'll remove them and see if that does the trick.

Thanks again,
Chuck

SeaDog · 06-23-2018, 12:16 PM

spell check put in realize instead of release let the forum know how you get it out so others will benefit from you experience.

chuckndi · 06-23-2018, 04:20 PM

I removed the 4 screws in the cabinets and the 4 screws from the surrounding wooden frame but still no luck. I'll call Forest River Monday to see if they have any suggestions. Will post results.

Thanks,
Chuck

rickkey2 · 06-24-2018, 01:22 PM

Hi Chuck We have a 2007 Charleston 400QS and I changed the two TV,s . Yes the front one was a pain to figure out. On ours I had to take out the screws in the wooden trim around the front of the TV. Then I had to remove the Vinyl padded trim that is in between the windshield and the back of the TV , this is a piece that wedges up behind the TV and is held on with Velcro. inside were two 7/16 or 3/8 bolts that hold the thin piece of plywood that is attached to the TV and bolted through the steel frame that supports the TV. when you remove the two bolts the TV comes out with the plywood still attached. At least that is how they did it on mine, no telling how they did yours. The cable connection in the electric bay should go to the back of the cable plate inside the coach that goes to your TV or satellite box. On the back of the plate are three cable connections , one for cable , one for satellite and one for 2nd TV.

Hope this helps, good luck

chuckndi · 06-24-2018, 06:12 PM

Hi Rickkey,

I think my configuration may be a little different. There is about a 5" opening between the TV housing and the windshield. The windshield prevents me from getting my big head high enough up to get a good look. There does not appear to be a Velcro panel. After removing the 4 screws on the front panel I can feel the TV move a little bit at the top and bottom but the center appears to be bolted in as you say. I'll keep poking around and see what happens.

Thanks!
Chuck

rickkey2 · 06-25-2018, 06:17 AM

Chuck I think it sounds the same as mine. The front of the TV moves up and down but feels like something is holding it down towards the back. Well it is the two bolts that I spoke about. You are right that you cannot see in there it is all by feel. I used a mirror to look in there as my head would not fit to see whats going on in there and in my case it is even worse as I am blind in my left eye but I was able to figure it out. You can not see the Velcro as it is tucked up inside and you just need to pull down on the part that runs across the back of the TV. Yes it's A.P.I.T.A Then reach up inside and you will feel the steel frame and the bolts going thru it. Remove the bolts and lift the TV out. Mine was the old flat screen with the big tube and very heavy and I had my friend help lift it out. Don't forget to unplug the TV and disconnect the cable wire before you take it all the way out. We replaced ours with smart TV's that we just love and they weigh about one tenth of the old ones. Please let me know how you make out. Now the bedroom TV was simple , just took the wood trim off and they just put two self tapping screws right through the plastic frame of the TV

chuckndi · 06-25-2018, 07:02 AM

I think you're right about it being the same. Bedroom TV came out very easy. Do you recall about how far back the bolts are? I can't reach very far in to the cabinet. Added some pics for clarity. Still not sure about the Velcro attached piece. Does yours have the automatic sunshades? Thanks so much for your help.

Sorry, the 1st pic is upside down

chuckndi · 06-25-2018, 07:06 AM

Sorry, the 1st pic is upside down

rickkey2 · 06-25-2018, 08:21 AM

Yes we have the power shades and in your last picture the open area at the back of the TV and windshield is where I have a panel that pushes up to cover the opening. That is the one with the Velcro, at least that's what they did on mine. I did this about four years ago but I think that the bolts were closer to the windshield side, I was able to put my arm in and reach them. Again a real P.I.T.A. had to sit on the dash with back to the windshield and reach up inside not very fun.

chuckndi · 06-25-2018, 08:51 AM

I'll let you know how it goes. Did you mount your new TV the same way as the old one? I'm thinking of making something easier if possible. Thanks!

rickkey2 · 06-25-2018, 09:40 AM

Well I came up with my own design to mount the new TVs. The new TVs are not the same size as the old ones so I made a bracket out of one inch flat stock aluminum that attached to the wall mount holes on the back of the TV and attached it to the original wood frame. I installed a piano hinge across the bottom of the frame and the cabinet and installed two gas struts to hold it open. Then I Just attached It back with the screws that hold the frame on and put a dab of silicone on the dowels that cover the screws. If I need to get to the back of the TV I just remove the screws and let the TV fold down. The new TV is wider than the wood frame and is about 1/4 inch from the cabinet doors on each side, I did this to get the biggest TV for the space. I think it is a 40 or 42 inch. Now the TV is about four inches thinner , top to bottom then the old one so I put in some black vinyl window screen from the back to fill the void and it looks great, like it is supposed to be there. This was my MacGyver setup and it works great.

chuckndi · 06-25-2018, 09:54 AM

Wow, that's quite a comprehensive design. I'll rethink the mounting part once I get the darn thing out

Tikinut · 07-26-2018, 06:36 PM

Did you get the TV out yet? I have the same exact one. I finally took it to the shop and they spent a couple hours figuring it out. The secret seems to be having to go in thru the windshield end or 'the way back back' of the big cabinet. Seems a difficult location to access. It will take persistence and patience. I think they said it was over 20 screws when said and done. Once you get it off I can show you how I mounted my new setup. I use a 47" LG with the Bose 300 Soundbar and Bose branded bracket to hang the bar off the bottom of the TV. I used a swing out bracket which was tricky to finalize.

chuckndi · 07-27-2018, 08:02 AM

Thanks Tikinut. I decided to wait until we return home in November where I have the tools and time. I bought a small camera that has a Bluetooth connection to my iPad so I could get a look back there. It appears to be bolted in at many points. I'll ping you once I get it out. I'd love to see how you mounted yours.

Best regards,
Chuck

Tikinut · 07-27-2018, 03:06 PM

Yeah I'd be glad to advise on what I know. Here's a hint...don't try to remove the entire metal sub-frame structure that's inside the cabinet. You want to leave that in place in so you can mount the new TV to it. There are some brackets/screws specific to the existing TV mounting to that sub-frame which is welded/bolted in place. I wish my mechanics had documented the process so I could have shared more.

I found the only photos I have and added them. You will see some evidence of the existing frame left behind and then the swing out arm mount (new) that I bolted to the existing metal plates. I had to drill new holes and I used heavy duty hardware. The challenge was to figure out a way to get the TV to mount just right so that it would be flush to the exterior old exterior frame..not sticking out too far and of course still be able to make necessary clearances. The PROBLEM with this is due to the extreme angle of the TV, if you use the swing out style of mount, it doesn't want to stay put. You may not believe this, but once we got it all mounted and tightened, I was able to get my hands in behind the back of the TV and frame - and use very heavy duty zip ties (like the ones rated for 100 plus pounds that are 4' long) to ratchet the swing-arm and TV right to the point I wanted it. This makes it possible to service everything in the future by cutting the zip ties, but also allowed maximum flexibility with the fluidity of the 'flush' mounting situation. Since there's no major sprung weight on the zip ties (all downward pressure goes to the welded framing and tv mount arm hardware) - its safe and flexible.

Now if you have any advice on fixing an intermittent non-flush on the push button master bedroom macerating toilet I could use some help! I'll look around for help on that one. The control buttons show no errors (green lights) and sometimes it flushes and sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking of just getting a whole new macerater toilet with a manual flush setup.

chuckndi · 07-27-2018, 07:37 PM

Thanks for the great insight and pics. Can't wait to tear into it. I wish I could provide you with info on the toilet but have a standard flush with an external sani con which I don't use. Our toilet has a seat high handle that I don't really care for. I'm thinking about replacing it with a foot pedal.

Thanks again,
Chuck

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