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Old 06-13-2016, 11:04 AM   #31
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Atwood, no anode rod to mess with either!
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:04 AM   #32
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Yes KJ, the 4-door fridge and 15K Heat Pump. We run the A/C and Propane water heater at the same time usually (always). Perhaps this keeps the electric water element from coming on very much. But as I said - no problems with blown pedestal breakers except that one time.

I'm not sure what these travel trailer guys are talking about. The don't realize they are in a motorhome specific forum.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:11 AM   #33
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Atwood, no anode rod to mess with either!
Thanks, according to Amazon, the heating element to it may be 1500 watts, which at 120 volts would be 12.5 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-92249-.../dp/B009UPLBLI

On my 30 amp camper, I also cannot run the electric heating element, air, and microwave at same time.

Honestly, in the summertime when it's hot anyway, I only run the water heater on propane. It doesn't take much to heat it, especially since it's hot outside anyway...and I need A/C more than anything.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:13 AM   #34
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If you run the propane to heat the water there is no reason the water heater will be using electric unless you have it set to use both at the same time. I'm just going to make the adjustment to use propane to heat the water until I no longer need the air in the fall. Still don't know why Forester puts all these bigger appliances in a rig and don't upgrade the source power to 50 to compensate for the extra load. Anybody ever converted to 50amp and how hard would it be to do it after market?
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:20 AM   #35
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If you run the propane to heat the water there is no reason the water heater will be using electric unless you have it set to use both at the same time. I'm just going to make the adjustment to use propane to heat the water until I no longer need the air in the fall. Still don't know why Forester puts all these bigger appliances in a rig and don't upgrade the source power to 50 to compensate for the extra load. Anybody ever converted to 50amp and how hard would it be to do it after market?
We have had a few members do it, and you may can do a search on it. The hardest part I would imagine is running the heavier gauge wiring from the point where it enters the RV to your electrical distribution panel. You may want visualize that and see how hard it would be to access in your decision to go further into it.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:22 AM   #36
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We have had a few members do it, and you may can do a search on it. The hardest part I would imagine is running the heavier gauge wiring from the point where it enters the RV to your electrical distribution panel. You may want visualize that and see how hard it would be to access in your decision to go further into it.

I would have a dealer do it. I'm guessing a new converter would be required as well? Screw it! Live with it the way it is! 😄
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:53 PM   #37
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Just as an FYI - I switched on the hot water heater electric elements and checked the readout on the progressive surge protector - with nothing else on it draws 11 amps
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:13 PM   #38
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Just as an FYI - I switched on the hot water heater electric elements and checked the readout on the progressive surge protector - with nothing else on it draws 11 amps

Thanks, can you do the double door fridge too? Which surge protector has the display? Perhaps I need to look into one of these?
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:25 AM   #39
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3051 power draw of appliances?

I can test the fridge but I only have the two door smaller fridge not the four-door big one I wish I did - The progressive industries surge protectors all have the readout for the voltage and amperage and frequency as far as I know - I have the hard wired unit ems-lchw30 - it is for a 30 amp system and it has the display on the unit they do sell a unit with a remote display but it cost almost $100 more - they are very good to have because it protects you from any kind of power issues at the campground hook up or anywhere really and it also gives you a readout for what is coming in so it is good to have for multiple reasons - FYI though it's says it does not work with inverter generators or inverters if you are using one of those
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:46 AM   #40
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Yes KJ, the 4-door fridge and 15K Heat Pump. We run the A/C and Propane water heater at the same time usually (always). Perhaps this keeps the electric water element from coming on very much. But as I said - no problems with blown pedestal breakers except that one time.

I'm not sure what these travel trailer guys are talking about. The don't realize they are in a motorhome specific forum.
I think that the OP's question was on why he keeps blowing a breaker. I don't understand your point? A travel trailer and 5er, have the same appliances and some have the same 30 amp. What makes a M/H any different. I have a 5er but have the same problem that is why I gave him the amp draws of 110 volt appliances. It's interesting to me as I read the different forums. NOW if it was a question on towing a toad or sway control or how to monitor a inside dully, I would have just read it for knowledge, But being his question was 30 amp and breakers it has nothing to do with a specific problem of a M/H in general. Just trying to give the OP some help. Now what is wrong with that? Don't need a M/H to try and help another member out with his question....Have a great day... PS: Please read post #'s 3-10-13-16-18, just trying to help the OP out.
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