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Old 01-07-2013, 09:40 PM   #11
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ATVer, on that panel to the left of the bed, I'm guessing you had to carefully disassemble it? It definitely isn't a screwed on removable panel. Looks like I'd have to take the piece of edge trim off and carefully pry the thin panels off. I also noticed you couldn't access the main water inlet under the bottom of the closet. I already cut an access hole in there and added a new removable panel on top of the hole. At least now I have the peace of mind that it doesn't leak in there. So far, no leaks anywhere. Black flush valve under sink appears to be black plastic on this one. Cheap, but works. One thing I miss about some of my Mobile Scout trailers, there was a removable access panel eveyrwhere there was plumbing connections in the walls.
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Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:59 PM   #12
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ATVer, on that panel to the left of the bed, I'm guessing you had to carefully disassemble it? It definitely isn't a screwed on removable panel. Looks like I'd have to take the piece of edge trim off and carefully pry the thin panels off. I also noticed you couldn't access the main water inlet under the bottom of the closet. I already cut an access hole in there and added a new removable panel on top of the hole. At least now I have the peace of mind that it doesn't leak in there. So far, no leaks anywhere. Black flush valve under sink appears to be black plastic on this one. Cheap, but works. One thing I miss about some of my Mobile Scout trailers, there was a removable access panel eveyrwhere there was plumbing connections in the walls.
My panel is carpeted particle board and is held inplace by two screws at the top and bottom. I believe the 2013 model uses a wood only panel. I noted the panel was larger than it needed to be so I shortened is by about a foot. My wife likes it because she can now easily reach the top of the bed. This was one of my changes I sent to forest river when they requested ideas a while back on this forum . Not sure if it was because of my suggestion or coincidence but the 2013s seem to have smaller panels. Once you remove the panel you can access the black flush inlet

Guess they went to a plastic vacuum breaker but mine is definitely brass. May have been a weight saving action.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:25 PM   #13
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Guess I'll use a little finess to remove the panels. I'll probablhy just reassemble with screws and putty the small stable holes. Or, may just built a new box with carpet. May be a little harder to obtain some matching carpet though.

Do you by any chance know how to access the slide motor on the driver's side slide? Is there a way to manually retract / extend the slide? I see a hex shape stud in the outside compartment. The slide needs adjusting, but I'm a little gun shy on tearing too far into it. I can't see any adjustment bolts like on previous slide outs I've dealt with. The aft side pulls in way tighter than the forward side.
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John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:26 AM   #14
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Guess I'll use a little finess to remove the panels. I'll probablhy just reassemble with screws and putty the small stable holes. Or, may just built a new box with carpet. May be a little harder to obtain some matching carpet though.

Do you by any chance know how to access the slide motor on the driver's side slide? Is there a way to manually retract / extend the slide? I see a hex shape stud in the outside compartment. The slide needs adjusting, but I'm a little gun shy on tearing too far into it. I can't see any adjustment bolts like on previous slide outs I've dealt with. The aft side pulls in way tighter than the forward side.
The hex shaped stud is for manual slide operation but I've never tried it. My left slide also pulls in a little tighter at the rear.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:35 PM   #15
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Hello, I too have the same issue with the water filter not being plumbed correctly. The filter is on the output of the pump and no connection to the city water...really dumb. How can I get a set of diagrams as you obtained and do u have any suggestions for me to replumb so both the on-board water tand and city water can be connected to the filter when needed. Tnx
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:45 PM   #16
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Hello, I too have the same issue with the water filter not being plumbed correctly. The filter is on the output of the pump and no connection to the city water...really dumb. How can I get a set of diagrams as you obtained and do u have any suggestions for me to replumb so both the on-board water tand and city water can be connected to the filter when needed. Tnx
First of all welcome to the forum!
Second its always best to start your own thread for more help and views .

Your filter is suppose to be on the outlet of pump.
It only can be on your outlet side to both use fw tank and city water.
There are no diagrams for much to do with tt's and 5th wheels.


Also this is a black tank flush thread.


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Old 03-11-2013, 10:44 PM   #17
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Hello, I too have the same issue with the water filter not being plumbed correctly. The filter is on the output of the pump and no connection to the city water...really dumb. How can I get a set of diagrams as you obtained and do u have any suggestions for me to replumb so both the on-board water tand and city water can be connected to the filter when needed. Tnx

The city water connection is plumbed to the cold water supply side of the nearby outside shower. Essentially this line serves double duty, provides city water to the rest of the coach or provides water to the outside shower when using the onboard pump and tank. This cold water line ties into the outlet side header of the water filter just above the pump location. You have to remove the cover panel in the filter compartment area to see it. The simplest way is just to relocate the line to the inlet side of the filter (between the pump and filter). The only appliance which would then get unfiltered water is the outside shower when using the onboard pump and tank. The actual diagram which Forest River does not always follow shows an additional separate line direct from the city water connection to the inlet side of the filter. That being said I have done this swap and it does reduce water pressure because of filter pressure drop. I have heard customers complained about this and operate without the filters when a campground doesn't have sufficient pressure.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:04 PM   #18
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Here's the design diagram. Line from 13, water connection, to 26, inlet side of filter, is the one that was not installed.

For some reason I can't attach it tonight.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:12 PM   #19
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Plumbing diagram for 3121

Hello, is it possible to try and resend the plumbing diagram or link to it directly to my email address or post link once again on the forum. tnx
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #20
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New Black Flush Inlet Finally Installed

Alright, finally got around to rerouting the black flush inlet to where I think it should be, by the sewer dump. Thanks to ATVer for giving me a little guidance on where things were. I was going to keep the original line and the new one both plumbed in, but capped the passenger side one as I knew I'd never need it. Very easy to put back original if need be. If anyone wants to see a few more pictures, look in my photo albums under "New Black Flush Inlet". Pretty easy install with only a few things to cut and modify.
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John and Rebecca Dickson
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Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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