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Old 01-03-2013, 10:08 PM   #1
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3121 Black Flush Inlet

Has anybody relocated the black flush inlet? Not sure why they put it on the passenger side of the 3121 besides it's the shortest run to the black tank. Should be able to reroute it to the gray/black dump valve compartment, or in that general area. One option is keep the passenger side inlet active as well and isolate it with a ball valve. Another option is just add a second jet to the same side on the black tank and route the water inlet to the driver's side. Option 2 would be the easiest. I've put several of them in, so it shouldn't be a major deal. Added 2 jets to a black tank one time. Just curious of other's opinions.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:58 PM   #2
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I have a Sunseeker 3120 which is the same layout and had the flush connection on the wrong side as well. I moved the connection to the dump valve compartment. I have a shutoff valve and coiled line mounted on the dump valve side of the plastic divider in the compartment which I roll out to hookup to the water supply. I ran a PEX line a little more than half way across the coach then up through the floor to the compartment housing lots of stuff under the bed. From the inside I cut the original flush line off at the original outside connection then connected it up to the new line. In this way you still have the vacuum breaker/backflow preventer (which you can see under the bathroom sink) still in the loop. I did not remove the original connection but plugged it so it couldn't be accidentally used and moved the black flusher decal to the panel where I installed the new connection. Works good. I plan to install a gray tank flusher next.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:13 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input. I'd love to see any pictures if you have any. Definitely interested in what it looks like since it's the same model.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:21 PM   #4
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Thanks for the input. I'd love to see any pictures if you have any. Definitely interested in what it looks like since it's the same model.
I don't have any photos of the installation but may be able to get one. The only thing you can see is the new connection valve and coiled hose in the dump compartment. Everything else is hidden behind panels and covers.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:41 PM   #5
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I wish I had our new one to look at. The way I'm picturing what you've done, the original flush line comes in under the bed, then over to the vacuum breaker under the bathroom sink, then to the black tank. You just tied in the new line under the bed to utilize the exisisting vacuum breaker. Is this correct?
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:54 PM   #6
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The original line comes in behind the bathroom sink. You need to remove the cover at the left side of the bed between the bed and the wall (slide needs to be out). There are other lines and wires going thru there but you have to reach in through a small cutout to get the the place to cut off the original connection hose. I actually had to open the cutout a little for access. With the under bed hatch fully open(matrices removed and storage bottom panel removed ) and the side cover removed you have access to everything you need.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:05 AM   #7
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Thanks ATVer. Very useful information and gives me a head start on this project. Now just gotta get it home. Usually the first thing I do with a new RV is pull all the access covers and eveyrthing else I can disassemble and check for leaks and try to figure out where everything is and how it's run. I would normally do this during a PDI, but since I usually fix everything myself, I just check the obvious points for leaks during the PDI. My biggest concern with any RV is water leaks whether it be plumbing, windows or anything else. I've never had a leak anywhere in any RV, and hope this one is leak free as well. On the vacuum breaker, if it's the kind I'm familiar with (clear plastic), then I wish somebody would come up with a better design. Most of the time they work, but in some cases I've had them spew a little water under a cabinet or in our fifth wheel, inside the wall behind a TV. I ended up getting rid of the plastic one and installing a brass one at the water inlet on that one.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #8
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You sound like me in wanting to understand how everything works. Be prepared with a trash bag as you will find lots of junk left over from construction in normally non visible areas. Also check the plumbing especially around around the water filter. My filter was plumbed incorrectly and the filter was only inservice while on the pump and fresh water tank. When hooked up to a water supply the filter was bypassed. I got the plumbing and electrical diagrams and they plumbed mine differently and also left out a line. The factory called it an "oversight" and would have fixed it but I did it myself for much less than the gas and time to take it back to the dealer.
Two other issues I fixed that may not be the same on the Forester are, I added a pressure fill line and valve for the fresh water tank so there is an option over the gravity fill. I also put the kitchen area ceiling lights on a three way circuit so there is a way to turn on ceiling lights from the entrance door.
Not sure when your unit was built or what model year it is but some of them had a 5 amp fuse left out of the charging and emergency parallel control circuit between the coach and chassis batteries. If you always hookup you may not realize you have the problem which precludes the engine alternator from charging the coach batteries and I believe impacts emergency bypass switch functionality. You can search this forum on the subject and find more info. There was no factory recall on the issue that I know of but thanks to B Clemens for helping us identify and resolve the issue.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:58 AM   #9
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You sound like me in wanting to understand how everything works. Be prepared with a trash bag as you will find lots of junk left over from construction in normally non visible areas. Also check the plumbing especially around around the water filter. My filter was plumbed incorrectly and the filter was only inservice while on the pump and fresh water tank. When hooked up to a water supply the filter was bypassed. I got the plumbing and electrical diagrams and they plumbed mine differently and also left out a line. The factory called it an "oversight" and would have fixed it but I did it myself for much less than the gas and time to take it back to the dealer.
Two other issues I fixed that may not be the same on the Forester are, I added a pressure fill line and valve for the fresh water tank so there is an option over the gravity fill. I also put the kitchen area ceiling lights on a three way circuit so there is a way to turn on ceiling lights from the entrance door.
Not sure when your unit was built or what model year it is but some of them had a 5 amp fuse left out of the charging and emergency parallel control circuit between the coach and chassis batteries. If you always hookup you may not realize you have the problem which precludes the engine alternator from charging the coach batteries and I believe impacts emergency bypass switch functionality. You can search this forum on the subject and find more info. There was no factory recall on the issue that I know of but thanks to B Clemens for helping us identify and resolve the issue.
One other thing the vacuum breaker valve under the sink is brass or at least is on the Sunseeker.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:21 PM   #10
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I guess the water filter plumbing was easy to figure out just by a visual once any access panels were removed? I don't like the built in filters and would rather have a portable inline one. Not saying I don't need one, but the Tiffin and the Forester are the first RV's that have had water filters. Never had a problem with previous RV's. That's good on the brass valve. It'll take me a while to go over everything after we get it tomorrow. Have to go back to work for 3 weeks on monday, so most will have to wait until I get back. I'll get back with you on the 3-way light switch and some other things. Hopefully I'll figure everything out when I get everything disassembled.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:40 PM   #11
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ATVer, on that panel to the left of the bed, I'm guessing you had to carefully disassemble it? It definitely isn't a screwed on removable panel. Looks like I'd have to take the piece of edge trim off and carefully pry the thin panels off. I also noticed you couldn't access the main water inlet under the bottom of the closet. I already cut an access hole in there and added a new removable panel on top of the hole. At least now I have the peace of mind that it doesn't leak in there. So far, no leaks anywhere. Black flush valve under sink appears to be black plastic on this one. Cheap, but works. One thing I miss about some of my Mobile Scout trailers, there was a removable access panel eveyrwhere there was plumbing connections in the walls.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:59 PM   #12
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ATVer, on that panel to the left of the bed, I'm guessing you had to carefully disassemble it? It definitely isn't a screwed on removable panel. Looks like I'd have to take the piece of edge trim off and carefully pry the thin panels off. I also noticed you couldn't access the main water inlet under the bottom of the closet. I already cut an access hole in there and added a new removable panel on top of the hole. At least now I have the peace of mind that it doesn't leak in there. So far, no leaks anywhere. Black flush valve under sink appears to be black plastic on this one. Cheap, but works. One thing I miss about some of my Mobile Scout trailers, there was a removable access panel eveyrwhere there was plumbing connections in the walls.
My panel is carpeted particle board and is held inplace by two screws at the top and bottom. I believe the 2013 model uses a wood only panel. I noted the panel was larger than it needed to be so I shortened is by about a foot. My wife likes it because she can now easily reach the top of the bed. This was one of my changes I sent to forest river when they requested ideas a while back on this forum . Not sure if it was because of my suggestion or coincidence but the 2013s seem to have smaller panels. Once you remove the panel you can access the black flush inlet

Guess they went to a plastic vacuum breaker but mine is definitely brass. May have been a weight saving action.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:25 PM   #13
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Guess I'll use a little finess to remove the panels. I'll probablhy just reassemble with screws and putty the small stable holes. Or, may just built a new box with carpet. May be a little harder to obtain some matching carpet though.

Do you by any chance know how to access the slide motor on the driver's side slide? Is there a way to manually retract / extend the slide? I see a hex shape stud in the outside compartment. The slide needs adjusting, but I'm a little gun shy on tearing too far into it. I can't see any adjustment bolts like on previous slide outs I've dealt with. The aft side pulls in way tighter than the forward side.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:26 AM   #14
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Guess I'll use a little finess to remove the panels. I'll probablhy just reassemble with screws and putty the small stable holes. Or, may just built a new box with carpet. May be a little harder to obtain some matching carpet though.

Do you by any chance know how to access the slide motor on the driver's side slide? Is there a way to manually retract / extend the slide? I see a hex shape stud in the outside compartment. The slide needs adjusting, but I'm a little gun shy on tearing too far into it. I can't see any adjustment bolts like on previous slide outs I've dealt with. The aft side pulls in way tighter than the forward side.
The hex shaped stud is for manual slide operation but I've never tried it. My left slide also pulls in a little tighter at the rear.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:35 PM   #15
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Hello, I too have the same issue with the water filter not being plumbed correctly. The filter is on the output of the pump and no connection to the city water...really dumb. How can I get a set of diagrams as you obtained and do u have any suggestions for me to replumb so both the on-board water tand and city water can be connected to the filter when needed. Tnx
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #16
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Hello, I too have the same issue with the water filter not being plumbed correctly. The filter is on the output of the pump and no connection to the city water...really dumb. How can I get a set of diagrams as you obtained and do u have any suggestions for me to replumb so both the on-board water tand and city water can be connected to the filter when needed. Tnx
First of all welcome to the forum!
Second its always best to start your own thread for more help and views .

Your filter is suppose to be on the outlet of pump.
It only can be on your outlet side to both use fw tank and city water.
There are no diagrams for much to do with tt's and 5th wheels.


Also this is a black tank flush thread.


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Old 03-11-2013, 09:44 PM   #17
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Hello, I too have the same issue with the water filter not being plumbed correctly. The filter is on the output of the pump and no connection to the city water...really dumb. How can I get a set of diagrams as you obtained and do u have any suggestions for me to replumb so both the on-board water tand and city water can be connected to the filter when needed. Tnx

The city water connection is plumbed to the cold water supply side of the nearby outside shower. Essentially this line serves double duty, provides city water to the rest of the coach or provides water to the outside shower when using the onboard pump and tank. This cold water line ties into the outlet side header of the water filter just above the pump location. You have to remove the cover panel in the filter compartment area to see it. The simplest way is just to relocate the line to the inlet side of the filter (between the pump and filter). The only appliance which would then get unfiltered water is the outside shower when using the onboard pump and tank. The actual diagram which Forest River does not always follow shows an additional separate line direct from the city water connection to the inlet side of the filter. That being said I have done this swap and it does reduce water pressure because of filter pressure drop. I have heard customers complained about this and operate without the filters when a campground doesn't have sufficient pressure.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:04 PM   #18
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Here's the design diagram. Line from 13, water connection, to 26, inlet side of filter, is the one that was not installed.

For some reason I can't attach it tonight.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #19
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Plumbing diagram for 3121

Hello, is it possible to try and resend the plumbing diagram or link to it directly to my email address or post link once again on the forum. tnx
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:14 PM   #20
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New Black Flush Inlet Finally Installed

Alright, finally got around to rerouting the black flush inlet to where I think it should be, by the sewer dump. Thanks to ATVer for giving me a little guidance on where things were. I was going to keep the original line and the new one both plumbed in, but capped the passenger side one as I knew I'd never need it. Very easy to put back original if need be. If anyone wants to see a few more pictures, look in my photo albums under "New Black Flush Inlet". Pretty easy install with only a few things to cut and modify.
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