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Old 07-18-2013, 11:45 AM   #11
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Keep in mind the "ducts" are no more than cut outs in the foam core of the roof, which is mostly what the whole laminated roof is. It's not a true sealed duct system like you'll find in some non-laminated units. I prefer the way the cedar creeks are done, which is similar to the way our mobile scout was. In our forester, we too have a few ducts with some restriction, for probably similar reasons as mentioned. No big deal, as I think there are too many ducts to start with. We close off the few to increase flow to others. A lot of flow in fewer more strategically placed vents makes more sense than little flow in a lot of vents.
John, I found this out last night. I dropped one of my LED light fixtures near the vent frame in the bathroom to peek at it from the outside of the duct. I discovered that the ceiling is inlaid with channeled styrofoam. I believe the A/C duct is its own foam shell since I seen some cut-through holes in it. The duct appears to be a 1/2" thick shell and then the rest of the styrofoam insulation is laid around it.

One thing I noticed is that everywhere an LED light fixture is installed, all the styrofoam is carved out to the roof deck. I thought this was weird since the light fixtures are very low profile. I figured this was done for air circulation around the fixture since LED doesn't like heat.

Oh, good to see another Louisiana owner. We're in Baton Rouge.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:57 AM   #12
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They were carved out because we used to use the halogen's. That needed some serious clearance since it would get hot enough to melt the foam. The LED's obviously use way less heat and space. The roof guys are probably just a little behind. No need to go quite that deep.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:58 AM   #13
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whoaaaa....I claim no knowledge of UV decay or its affects. I know BigJohn on here, painted and filled his without any issues.

I just know some people use a day/night or day/blackout shade. I know when I tinted my house windows they could not go bronze or mirrored since it reflects too much heat back into the thermopane gap. With a black out...its just reflecting it back into the space between the shade and skylight, not necessarily between the plastic panels.

The day/night shades that I speak of are only sized for the skylights. Since those are much larger areas. I'm sure you could get something similar for the shower, but we won't be stocking that.
Ooops, sorry didn't mean to corner you on that one. It was an inquiry as to FR stance (if there is a stance) on UV affects and blocking the light. For instance, Fan-tastic fans give some guidence on taking care of the fan for UV protection.
On my older travel trailer of years ago, "bubble" lens over the shower began yellowing from the UV affects. I think the plastic has improved to be more UV stabilized since that time.

The big skylight I mention is the one over my shower. I guessing 20" X 30" so I'm thinking the day/night shade you mention is for the same.

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Old 07-18-2013, 12:01 PM   #14
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They were carved out because we used to use the halogen's. That needed some serious clearance since it would get hot enough to melt the foam. The LED's obviously use way less heat and space. The roof guys are probably just a little behind. No need to go quite that deep.
Halogen, Really?! Yes, that is a bold to have halogen in a foam insulated ceiling. I love the LED.

Thanks for the input from the factory side.

Bobby
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:02 PM   #15
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That's OK...I know how to back peddle when needed. I don't know that we have a stance on the subject. Plastics for sure are better than they were even 5 years ago. We try to make sure everything we use is UV stable. That's one of the reason we switched range exhaust caps due to the UV treatment/method they were using.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:03 PM   #16
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Halogen, Really?! Yes, that is a bold to have halogen in a foam insulated ceiling. I love the LED.

Thanks for the input from the factory side.

Bobby
It was a really tiny bulb though. Not like those halogen floor lamps we all had about 10 years ago that you could roast marshmallows over.

But yes...it really did need to be cut that far back.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:16 PM   #17
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That's one of the reason we switched range exhaust caps due to the UV treatment/method they were using.
Speaking of that range exhaust hood (hi-jacking my own topic) but I inspected that very item yesterday on the outside. I can't figure how to open the wind flap. It has two latches on the bottom. I pressed both of them but I could not get the wind flap to open. There was some silicone at the latches so I thought maybe I was releasing the wrong way but I don't want to press so hard that I break a latch off.
Do I press downward on the latch to release the wind flap?

Thanks,
Bobby
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:18 PM   #18
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You're not the only one.
Range vent on 2013 3010DS
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:22 PM   #19
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Thanks! I looked back but not that far back. I guess I should have used search
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:27 PM   #20
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No problem. I knew what to look for.
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