Artic package - Dealer installation?

[carlb]

Is the wiring harness such that the dealer can order the switch and heaters to install this if not equipped like that from the factory?

Teetering on in stock versus Ordering...

[geotex1]

Anyone can install heaters really. It's not difficult at all. There's no pre-wiring for them, but that's really a non-issue. If the unit has an enclosed underbelly and just no heaters, the underbelly has to be dropped anyway to install so wiring is easy. Not really a big issue to install insulation and the underbelly material either if needed. Really, it'll boil down to what they want to charge you.

[SuicideSaints]

The install is pretty straightforward, mainly just time consuming due to dropping underbelly (enclosures) and tanks, "slapping" the heaters on then running the wire to power and switch.

Kits for the hardware are between 100 and 200 dollars then just the labor to install.

I guess it will come down to what you decide you need as well as the price of after purchase install to the price of ordering one with it already installed.

I have a TT (an EVO) I went with just the enclosed and insulated underbelly because there were quite a few reviews of the tank heaters being not all they were cracked up to be, I think I'll be just fine without them as long as I am careful when I am in temps below freezing for longer than a night.

[carlb]

Can someone verify the effective operating window for the artic package?

I was just told that it can be used or effective from 44 to 32 degrees F. Below that the furnace and other considerations must be made.

[SuicideSaints]

Originally Posted by carlb

Can someone verify the effective operating window for the artic package?

I was just told that it can be used or effective from 44 to 32 degrees F. Below that the furnace and other considerations must be made.

I have never heard of an effective range, and when I researched it I got all sorts of answers as to when the heaters come on and shut off.

I do not think of it as an effective range or window, they work in conjunction with the enclosure, insulation as well as radiant heat from running the heater. if you think about it why would the effective range be between 32-44? Those temps wouldn't let it freeze anyway.

Ive camped in trailers that didn't have tank heaters down in the 20s for a night. Ive seen people on these forums that have froze sub 30s in 2 nights while running the tank heaters.

They way I see it is tank heaters are an added feature but they alone do not ensure you wont freeze. There are other factors that play into it and other parts that can freeze, the bottom line is the full arctic package does not make it a 4 season camper, the arctic package gives you a little piece of mind that you can go late fall or early spring and probably be just fine.

These are my opinions and I opted to not get them and I firmly believe that I will be just fine without them for what I do. Hope this helps.

[F and E Damp]

I think those things are potentially hazardous. I disconnected mine.

They consist of resistance elements about 8" long x 2" wide that each draw 7 amps from the batteries. My rig had 2 on the black tank and two on the grey tank. Their thermostats are built in and non-adjustable. When turned on, they power up when they sense 40 F or less tank wall temp and stay on until the wall temp reaches 64 F. They have no sensors to check whether there's any liquid in the tank.

I didn't like the idea of putting 84 watts of power into 16 square inches of polyethylene, particularly if it might be dry on the other side. I also wasn't keen on using 28 amps from the house batteries to heat up the poop and dirty water to 64 degrees either.

I copied the manufacturer's data sheets to give someone a copy. I since sold the MH but still have the computer file. If anyone in this forum is interested, send me a PM and I'll forward a .pdf copy.

[carlb]

ok cool. I am slowly loosing my notion that i "Need" this option.

Thanks!

[SuicideSaints]

Originally Posted by F and E Damp

I think those things are potentially hazardous. I disconnected mine.

They consist of resistance elements about 8" long x 2" wide that each draw 7 amps from the batteries. My rig had 2 on the black tank and two on the grey tank. Their thermostats are built in and non-adjustable. When turned on, they power up when they sense 40 F or less tank wall temp and stay on until the wall temp reaches 64 F. They have no sensors to check whether there's any liquid in the tank.

I didn't like the idea of putting 84 watts of power into 16 square inches of polyethylene, particularly if it might be dry on the other side. I also wasn't keen on using 28 amps from the house batteries to heat up the poop and dirty water to 64 degrees either.

I copied the manufacturer's data sheets to give someone a copy. I since sold the MH but still have the computer file. If anyone in this forum is interested, send me a PM and I'll forward a .pdf copy.

This was the same info I was given, comes on at 40 and heats till 60, there were a lot of comments saying they would never shut off due to them not being able to heat to 60. After considering this with coupled with battery draw I went with the arctic pack without them (I think it is technically called the climate pack now).

Maybe it doesn't help you now but I have a few hunting trips planned for late this year and I'll post on my experiences when I am out in the colder weather with my unit.

[SuicideSaints]

Originally Posted by carlb

ok cool. I am slowly loosing my notion that i "Need" this option.

Thanks!

I was in the same boat, I thought I had to have them and after talking to forest river, my dealer and this forum I abandoned that notion and just went with the insulated and sealed tanks.

My honest thinking is that if having tank heaters is a make it or break it while I am camping I probably have other things that will give me trouble first and once I came to grips with the reality that these aren't 4 season units I just didn't care about them anymore.

[bclemens]

The unit that I skied in, we always delete the arctic package. having it is not a big deal, you can always turn it off...but in cold weather camping the resistance heat sucks battery life way too fast for our taste. If I'm not mistaken resistance heat is the most inefficient.

Just depends on your usage I guess. The furnace heat has always sufficed for us.

[campnqueen]

Depending which unit... Work & Play has Arctic package.. we have one. The supply hose from the heated fresh water tank runs outside the unit and NOT insulated...and freezes... so the package isn't worth a darn!!

Look up thread "Beware of Arctic Package"

[edcronin01]

I have a Sunseeker with the artic package factory installed here is the manufacture's website UltraHeat, Inc. - Home. They work great the advantage is they run on 12 volts and you leave them on while traveling down the road without using the furnace.