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Old 06-13-2016, 05:32 PM   #1
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Backup Camera - no signal 2013 3011 DSF

Greetings,

Backed my forester in to clean it out with the camera working. Post cleaning I pulled out and happened to back up a bit to avoid some branches and noticed a no signal error from the camera. I didn't smack the camera cleaning so this was a surprise. I jumped out and checked the exterior connections and nothing seems out of whack. I didn't see any areas for water to get in to short the camera. I'm guessing I have a loose connection but where? This is the camera system that installs where a rear view mirror would reside in a regular vehicle so I have no hope of finding the connection behind the radio like I did in my old RV. Where do I look for loose connections?
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:34 AM   #2
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Under the steering wheel is the "multiplexer" where the rear and side cameras terminate and the monitor plugs in.

I had my rear camera go out all of a sudden earlier this year. It had to be replaced under warranty. Got the dreaded blue screen with no signal message. I'd leave it up to your dealer to suss out. I tried a lot of "fixes" before taking it to the dealer and it was a waste of time.
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:53 PM   #3
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Found the multiplexer. Thanks for the tip there. The cable to the backup camera was kinked hard so I'm worried that the damage is done and a rerun of that cable may be in order. I swapped one of the side cameras over to the backup camera port and it came right up so I know the multiplexer is fine. I am really really hoping that the camera has a connector and that I can take it out from the grommet on the back of the coach. Does anyone know if this is possible or do I need to start taking down the interior to replace a 30 ft + long cable and camera?

If the entire cable needs to be replaced can anyone give me some tips on which side of the rig the cable was run on and where to look to uncover it?
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:02 PM   #4
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I climbed up there removed the camera, pried out the grommet and hoped hoped hoped to find a short connector there to the main cable. But no luck. Don't waste your time.

I took it to my dealer and they replaced the camera and from the best I can tell they removed some trim in the bedroom to get at a connector in the roof. I can see they removed the valance between the bedroom's rear wall and the ceiling. But I don't know more than that.

Lots of possible answers - It could be one long cable from the camera to the multiplexer. OR there could be a 6' cable from the camera that goes into the ceiling and is connected to a main cable that runs forward.

If it's the 2nd way then perhaps you could find that connector, I couldn't. But mine was still under warranty - so the dealer did mine for free.
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:43 PM   #5
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That is what I was afraid of. Well mine is not under warranty so its time to break out the trim tools and go to town.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:04 PM   #6
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I have a 2015 3010 and there is a plug up under the rear trim and a short cable to the camera. Of course things change from year to year but at least it's a possibility.
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:14 PM   #7
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Popped that trim board right off pulling from the top and there was the connection. Turns out the connection to the back of the camera corroded out allowing the water from the wash in to fry it. Camping world didn't have a replacement so Amazon got the nod. Other than fishing that wire up the back of the rig this should be a fairly straight forward repair. I'll post the carnage once the part arrives.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:39 AM   #8
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The camera lives!!!

The camera came in and it was the exact same camera. Or so I thought.... The camera bolted right in but the rubber grommet that plugs the hole into the RV was one millimeter smaller than the original. I promised pictures but honestly most of the real fun is behind the walls.

The replacement was not hard assuming you have the tools. Hopefully the steps below will help take the fear away for someone else that encounters the blue screen of death. To do this replacement I had to use the following tools:

ladder
trim removal tools - (composite so no marring)
mini prybar
flat plastic ruler
fish line (optional)
zip ties
2.5 mm allen wrench
Phillips head screw driver
Electrical tape
painters tape
light colored wood putty

To get the cover board off of the top back corner I had to remove the wardrobe door, place the platic ruler on the roof and gently go down the top of the trim board gently prying gradually and evenly across the board until I could get my hands on it. Then I gently pulled down and out to get the board off without removing the corner trim. Once I had the board off I pulled the nails from the wall and roof and cut them off of the board using the side cutters. Attempting to push them through will damage the board.

Connect 4 zip ties together and tape them flat using the electrical tape. Don't cut the ends off, tape them flat to knock down the edges.

Unscrew the camera from the main cable and make sure it is freely moving and not kinked. If you don't have a fish line, tape the biggest end of the zip ties to the end of the camera cable.

Outside, use painters tape to cover the surface around the grommet. Select a flat trim tool with gap large enough to fit under the grommet and around its lip. Pry up about a quarter inch and the rotate the tool 90 degrees and repeat to break the grommet loose without tearing it up. You might need it later like I did!

Pull the camera cable out. It will get stuck twice on the EM isolator and the connector. You may need to go back inside twice to pull on the plywood wall and push the block past the edge of the wood. Just don't try to cram it all down at once or it will get jammed. The holes cut in the bracing is large enough to get the connector through and that's it. If it's off kilter the swearing will begin.

Pull the cable out leaving only one zip ties worth of length left and remove the zip tie line from the camera cable.

Use the 2.5 mm allen wrench to remove the old camera and mount the new camera.

Tape the new cable to the zip ties, placing the big part of the zip tie behind the head of the connector and wrapping it well with electrical tape. Push the connector into the hole until it fits and starts to go through the first vertical hole. Go inside and pull the cable in gently. It helps to have someone feed the line in from outside to keep from scuffing it. Don't pull it tight.

connect the camera and test it from the monitor.

lay the cable on top of the wall so that it isn't kinked.

Outside, make sure there's some slack in the cable and press the cameras grommet into the hole. In my case the grommet was too small so I had to cut the cable on the old camera, slide off the old grommet and slice one side of the grommet from the outside to the inside hole with a razor blade. I popped the old grommet on, put some RTV silicone in the cut, ran a small bead round the outside groove of the grommet and popped it back in.

All in all the repair took about an hour and a half. It would probably have gone much faster if I hadn't had to go back and forth for tools or I I had someone on the other side of the glass to help with line pulling.

The pictures below are a graphical tools list and the reason why the camera failed.
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:52 PM   #9
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Cool write-up. Thanks! Mine has gone a little fuzzy on the main channel so wondering if that is the beginning.
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:44 PM   #10
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Yeah mine got fuzzy and started going in and out occasionally before it completely failed. Water got in through the back nut where the wire enters. I put a drop of RTV around the point where the wire enters the new camera after the install to add some additional insurance. I might have been able to prolong the life of the old camera if I had caught the leak earlier and RTVd the cable entry point.
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