The camera lives!!!
The camera came in and it was the exact same camera. Or so I thought.... The camera bolted right in but the rubber grommet that plugs the hole into the RV was one millimeter smaller than the original. I promised pictures but honestly most of the real fun is behind the walls.
The replacement was not hard assuming you have the tools. Hopefully the steps below will help take the fear away for someone else that encounters the blue screen of death. To do this replacement I had to use the following tools:
trim removal tools - (composite so no marring)
flat plastic ruler
fish line (optional)
2.5 mm allen wrench
Phillips head screw driver
light colored wood putty
To get the cover board off of the top back corner I had to remove the wardrobe door, place the platic ruler on the roof and gently go down the top of the trim board gently prying gradually and evenly across the board until I could get my hands on it. Then I gently pulled down and out to get the board off without removing the corner trim. Once I had the board off I pulled the nails from the wall and roof and cut them off of the board using the side cutters. Attempting to push them through will damage the board.
Connect 4 zip ties together and tape them flat using the electrical tape. Don't cut the ends off, tape them flat to knock down the edges.
Unscrew the camera from the main cable and make sure it is freely moving and not kinked. If you don't have a fish line, tape the biggest end of the zip ties to the end of the camera cable.
Outside, use painters tape to cover the surface around the grommet. Select a flat trim tool with gap large enough to fit under the grommet and around its lip. Pry up about a quarter inch and the rotate the tool 90 degrees and repeat to break the grommet loose without tearing it up. You might need it later like I did!
Pull the camera cable out. It will get stuck twice on the EM isolator and the connector. You may need to go back inside twice to pull on the plywood wall and push the block past the edge of the wood. Just don't try to cram it all down at once or it will get jammed. The holes cut in the bracing is large enough to get the connector through and that's it. If it's off kilter the swearing will begin.
Pull the cable out leaving only one zip ties worth of length left and remove the zip tie line from the camera cable.
Use the 2.5 mm allen wrench to remove the old camera and mount the new camera.
Tape the new cable to the zip ties, placing the big part of the zip tie behind the head of the connector and wrapping it well with electrical tape. Push the connector into the hole until it fits and starts to go through the first vertical hole. Go inside and pull the cable in gently. It helps to have someone feed the line in from outside to keep from scuffing it. Don't pull it tight.
connect the camera and test it from the monitor.
lay the cable on top of the wall so that it isn't kinked.
Outside, make sure there's some slack in the cable and press the cameras grommet into the hole. In my case the grommet was too small so I had to cut the cable on the old camera, slide off the old grommet and slice one side of the grommet from the outside to the inside hole with a razor blade. I popped the old grommet on, put some RTV silicone in the cut, ran a small bead round the outside groove of the grommet and popped it back in.
All in all the repair took about an hour and a half. It would probably have gone much faster if I hadn't had to go back and forth for tools or I I had someone on the other side of the glass to help with line pulling.
The pictures below are a graphical tools list and the reason why the camera failed.