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Old 10-27-2014, 11:41 AM   #11
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Upgrading the positive wire (8AWG) from battery -> converter may also help with getting full voltage during charging. In my case, this wire is 20ft long and is above the recommended <3% voltage loss.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:39 PM   #12
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Thank You Everyone,

Brian, my system has been looked at more than once by the dealer without finding a reason. Our first, dry camping, was to Yosemite in November 2012 at Thanksgiving We took delivery of the coach on September 15, 2012. Prior to leaving the batteries were fully charged and our first night was spent in a full hook up KOA. Our first night in Yosemite the heater shut off and we had no power. the next morning I found that both batteries were just barley making 12v. I ran the generator, illegally, for 8 continuous hours . The meter showed 12.8v and the idiot light showed full. the batteries did not last the night. the next day I ran the generator and attached a battery tender that was plugged into the coach. Once again the batteries showed full but did not last the night. This process repeated each night we were there. Not much fun in the rain and cold. Took it to the dealer they diagnosed
bad battery and replaced both. Next dry camping trip process repeated. Back to the dealer. So far I have had 6 replaced batteries, the last 2 I paid for. Now two years later I am a little frustrated and when I had the opportunity to explain to a factory rep at the RV show is when I learned that the solution may be in replacing the "Power distribution Box." I am going to call dealer and get it in for testing of the entire charging system.. my converter and the fuse/ breaker box are both WFCO and I suspect that that is what the dealer asked to be replaced. I have a call in to check. thank You for your information it was very helpful. I will post later with the final results. Tom
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:45 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by campingtom View Post
Thank You Everyone,

Brian, my system has been looked at more than once by the dealer without finding a reason. Our first, dry camping, was to Yosemite in November 2012 at Thanksgiving We took delivery of the coach on September 15, 2012. Prior to leaving the batteries were fully charged and our first night was spent in a full hook up KOA. Our first night in Yosemite the heater shut off and we had no power. the next morning I found that both batteries were just barley making 12v. I ran the generator, illegally, for 8 continuous hours . The meter showed 12.8v and the idiot light showed full. the batteries did not last the night. the next day I ran the generator and attached a battery tender that was plugged into the coach. Once again the batteries showed full but did not last the night. This process repeated each night we were there. Not much fun in the rain and cold. Took it to the dealer they diagnosed
bad battery and replaced both. Next dry camping trip process repeated. Back to the dealer. So far I have had 6 replaced batteries, the last 2 I paid for. Now two years later I am a little frustrated and when I had the opportunity to explain to a factory rep at the RV show is when I learned that the solution may be in replacing the "Power distribution Box." I am going to call dealer and get it in for testing of the entire charging system.. my converter and the fuse/ breaker box are both WFCO and I suspect that that is what the dealer asked to be replaced. I have a call in to check. thank You for your information it was very helpful. I will post later with the final results. Tom
You are out of warranty, I would install the progressive direct replacement for the WFCO. Being that you boondock you can use the wizard. That will force your 4 stage charger into 14.6 volts, less time charging. It will bring your battery up to 90% then drop to 13.6 to 100%. WFCO systems do not have that option and will not go into float at 13.2 for 48 hrs reading no parasites or it will not drop to float at all. Progressive will read the parasites and stay in float. I'll attach a link, get rid of the WFCO it only ruining your batteries. The cost difference is like $30.00 bucks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Progressive.pdf (443.5 KB, 41 views)
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by campingtom View Post
Thank You Everyone,

I learned that the solution may be in replacing the "Power distribution Box." I am going to call dealer and get it in for testing of the entire charging system.. my converter and the fuse/ breaker box are both WFCO and I suspect that that is what the dealer asked to be replaced. I have a call in to check. thank You for your information it was very helpful. I will post later with the final results. Tom
Just wanted you to be aware that the item that was getting replaced was the BCC (Battery Control Center) not the converter (and in most cases just a chip). Not saying the converter did not go bad, just trying to further explain the info the rep gave you.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:21 PM   #15
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You are out of warranty, I would install the progressive direct replacement for the WFCO. Being that you boondock you can use the wizard. That will force your 4 stage charger into 14.6 volts, less time charging. It will bring your battery up to 90% then drop to 13.6 to 100%. WFCO systems do not have that option and will not go into float at 13.2 for 48 hrs reading no parasites or it will not drop to float at all. Progressive will read the parasites and stay in float. I'll attach a link, get rid of the WFCO it only ruining your batteries. The cost difference is like $30.00 bucks.
Power max also has a "boondocking" special converter.
Best converter has them.
I'd recommend that to progressive dynamics especially if you boondock alot.
http://www.bestconverter.com/Powerma...rs-_c_154.html


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Old 10-27-2014, 11:31 PM   #16
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BClemens Thanks to you I now know where to look. The BBC installed in my MH is a precision and not the Wurth. So I am OK there. I plan to switch out the WFCO converter for the Progressive Dynamics as recommended by gljurczyk. My goal is to get depleted batteries up to service levels before they die. Thanks again to everyone for the help
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