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Old 02-21-2016, 05:18 PM   #31
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After all this, I discovered that after switching the battery cut-off to OFF, there is still a -2ahr draw showing on both my battery monitor and clamp-on amp meter. That's almost 5 amps per day and half the capacity in 2 weeks. A disconnect on the negative or just replacing the nut with a wing nut should allow complete disconnect, right?
From the context of your note, I think you meant you had a .2 amp draw rather than a -2 amp draw. Correct??
And yes...assuming there are no other "black wires" other than the main one, then a cut off switch at the terminal will kill that parasitic load. It there are other ground wires, then just move them to a buss bar or other connection that the cut off switch can kill as well.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:56 PM   #32
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OOOOpppps!

OOOOpppps! Sorry, it's .2 ahr not 2 ahr. See what happens when you don't go back a proof read!

Everything appears to be off even the dash radio and 12v power plugs???
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:10 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
OOOOpppps! Sorry, it's .2 ahr not 2 ahr. See what happens when you don't go back a proof read!

Everything appears to be off even the dash radio and 12v power plugs???

Sage, mine has a .1 ahr draw when disconnect is off. I was told this was the big foot system and that was normal . They have to be wired directly and not thru the disconnect because of how many amps they draw when in use.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:39 AM   #34
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Sage, mine has a .1 ahr draw when disconnect is off. I was told this was the big foot system and that was normal . They have to be wired directly and not thru the disconnect because of how many amps they draw when in use.
That makes sense Ben.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:31 AM   #35
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Several hundred ma is normal parasite draw for a camper.

There are a few things that bypass normal battery cut off systems; some required by law.

The propane leak detector has no way of "knowing" that the propane valves are on, so that must be powered. The radio internal clock would need to be reset every time you used the cut off so, by convention, it also is bypassed.

As camper systems become more computer controlled, these systems also need continuous power to maintain settings and correct operation.

If you will be storing your camper and will not be using the propane gas at all (valves closed) you can easily add a switch at the positive terminal of your battery for storage (in a heated area).

Obviously you never want to store a battery without trickle charging current where the battery will freeze. While a fully charged battery will not freeze, a partially discharged one WILL; breaking the lead plates and ruining the battery(s).

Batteries will "self discharge" over time due to the small, but real, losses from internal resistance using up the plate charge.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:24 AM   #36
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There is some good conversation on this battery thread and a few of my questions actually got answered with out lifting a finger, although it take take a few clicks.

Just a footnote for FR, it may beneficial to route the inter battery cable connections in a fashion that does not block the battery caps. I have been wanting to check the water level in the batteries and cannot until I take some time to redo the cables. In a few weeks the weather should be warm enough to complete this job.
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