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Old 02-19-2016, 08:31 PM   #1
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Battery compartment wiring makes no sense, at least to me??????

Equalized my house batteries today. I removed all the cables as I don't think the battery disconnect does a total disconnect. For some unknown reason, there are 3 positive cables going to one post, one of which connects the 2 batteries. At the other battery, there are 2 positive cables, one of which connects to the other battery. Why 3 positive cables and what does the battery disconnect really disconnect? Also, when the battery disconnect is off, it appears that the converter charger is still charging the batteries.
When I attached my clamp-on amp meter, it made even less sense!
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:50 PM   #2
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The red lead on the right probably goes to the engine bay for the emergency start.
the three red leads on the left are probably:
1) jumper to second battery (obviously)
2) lead to disconnect/charger-converter
3) lead to generator for the starter.

The small red lead - not sure, but you could chase all of them to get a positive id.
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemc View Post
The red lead on the right probably goes to the engine bay for the emergency start.
the three red leads on the left are probably:
1) jumper to second battery (obviously)
2) lead to disconnect/charger-converter
3) lead to generator for the starter.

The small red lead - not sure, but you could chase all of them to get a positive id.
Thanks,
The small red lead going to post of 3 is for my solar 100 watt Renogy solar suitcase 100 watts. Hardwired a anderson connector to the outside by the wheel well. The other small red wire is from the Xantrex Battery monitor shunt, not very visible.
The positive cable coming in to the second battery in the middle of the photo must be the main one coming from the alternator thru a solenoid relay, right?
Why is the Battery monitor showing 14.5 volts with the battery disconnect in off?
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:31 PM   #4
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Thanks again, this will give me something to work with. Tomorrow I will test and see which cable goes where. The cable from the Alternator and the Converter/Charger should be on the far left along with the cable joining the positive. I can make the generator the one in the middle then with the adjoining cable.
I suppose all the positives should be on the left side battery and only the adjoing cable in the middle, but you can't put 4 terminal end connectors on one post. Not long enough. I could use the post connector that I have the solar and battery monitor on for one of the cables.
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:19 AM   #5
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Found out all four positive cables go on the lower left with one going to the other battery. Wow, I hope they all fit. Maybe that's why the clamp-on amp readings were wacky!
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:28 AM   #6
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I found on our new Sunseeker that the battery disconnect doesn't disconnect from the charger/converter, so the voltage is always 13.1 (when plugged in) unless the charger is doing an equalize. I've yet to monitor the resting voltage with it unplugged...

Have fun following the cables!
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:44 AM   #7
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Thanks Brucemc, it's all making sense now.
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:46 AM   #8
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Just remember that equalizing takes unusually high voltage to excite the electrolyte. The bubbling of the electrolyte is what dislodges the particles on the batteries plates. Each manufacture recommends a specific voltage and time for this process to be successful. With Trojan (that,s what I have) they recommend 15.5 volts until the specfic gravity on your hydrometer stops rising. My batteries show 12.8 volts 12 hours after a charge with no load (there on a bench for the winter).
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:52 AM   #9
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Just remember that equalizing takes unusually high voltage to excite the electrolyte. The bubbling of the electrolyte is what dislodges the particles on the batteries plates. Each manufacture recommends a specific voltage and time for this process to be successful. With Trojan (that,s what I have) they recommend 15.5 volts until the specfic gravity on your hydrometer stops rising. My batteries show 12.8 volts 12 hours after a charge with no load (there on a bench for the winter).
Thanks for the numbers. I was equalizing each battery for 120 minutes at 15.7v at the solar controller and showing 15.4v on the Battery monitor. My SG battery tester broke after I tested them prior to equalizing. Will pick up a new one tomorrow.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:51 PM   #10
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Might consider tagging the cables for future reference.
Most clamp on meters do not read DC current from batteries only AC line current.
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