Coach Entry Door 10 mm Gas Prop Ball Repair

17Racer · 05-03-2016, 06:51 PM

The 10mm gas prop ball on the entry door is loose and seems to rock back and forth. Sure feels like it could use tightening or repair. But it shows no sign of how it is attached to the bottom of the door.

And this is a Sunseeker/Forseter motor home entry door in question.

Has anybody done a repair job to strengthen the attachment?

Also has anybody changed the 20lb gas prop for a 10lb for a lighter push open of the entry door?

brucemc · 05-04-2016, 03:41 PM

Ours is sloppy from the factory as well. One of these days I'll look into repairing this, or will change how it operates so the door can swing 180ish degrees when the awning is not deployed (which it rarely is).

Pacostaco · 05-05-2016, 05:24 PM

I ha e same issue. I asked the dealer, Avalon rv which is great, and they said they would have to remove the whole door frame so I decided to wait until it breaks. I was thinking that there may be a way to drill straight through once it breaks and come up with a mod that would prevent door frame from being removed. You know once they remove it it will never be the same again.

Delco Bobby · 05-06-2016, 11:46 AM

If you are referring to the end of the door closer that attaches to the door jamb then keep reading. The door closer was actually hanging off the side of the vehicle. If not, never mind.

Ours worked loose at that connection while on a trip. I took a wrench and tightened it. I planned to do a better job at home using some thread locker but it has remained tight. No wobble and less noise from the door. Additionally, the door closes easier now.

If I could only get my wife to stop slamming the door...

17Racer · 05-06-2016, 01:26 PM

Thanks for your reply Bobby, but it is not the one on the sill.
It is the one under the door as pictured. And I have turned it but with no results in making it tighter. It is going to need a better fix, and I am still in the thinking stage.

Pacostaco · 05-06-2016, 06:58 PM

Mine is loose on the sill

Delco Bobby · 05-07-2016, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 17Racer

Thanks for your reply Bobby, but it is not the one on the sill.
It is the one under the door as pictured. And I have turned it but with no results in making it tighter. It is going to need a better fix, and I am still in the thinking stage.

It may be held on with a pin and a cinch nut instead of a bolt or screw.

If the pin or cinch nut broke it would explain why you can't tighten it.

I have seen this in other applications.

17Racer · 05-14-2016, 05:43 PM

Well I did not make out very good with the results from the first post “coach entry door 10 mm gas prop ball repair”. Thought maybe someone else may have done a fix but not to be found. So here is my story.
Picture 1 - On the bottom of the entry door front and back are 4 screws plus one screw underneath door holding a rubber pad. Remove these screws.
Picture 2 - This is what the bottom edge part looks like taken off.
Picture 3 - This shows just how loose this 10mm ball is.
Picture 4 - And this is why, really not a very strong assembly.
Picture 5,6 - Drilled the old ball out carefully so I could remove it complety. And machined a new part for mounting the fresh 10mm ball to. Made out of stainless and drilled for 2 8-32 screws to hold it in place. Plus 5/16-18 threaded hole in the center for the new ball.
Picture 7 - This is what it looks like now.
Picture 8 - Using a 10 pound gas prop and it is much nicer. Just the right feel to the door now.
Picture 9 - Even though the new part appears stronger in assembly I do not like the idea that this is the sole stop for the door. Just a lot of leverage can be applied. And the ball on the sill might take hurt next. So I will be using the gas prop just for the holding the door open feature and opting for a positive door stop which would be safer for those windy days. And here it is.

Delco Bobby · 05-14-2016, 06:03 PM

Beyond appreciating your handy work I have questions.

Are you saying that the weather strip at the bottom of the door is only held on by one screw? No adhesive?

It also looks like the weather strip does not run the entire width of the door. I have a gap on both sides also. I wonder why, the money saved would be insignificant.

I think there is a files section where you could post your work on this fix.

17Racer · 05-14-2016, 06:21 PM

Bobby,
4 screws, 2 on each end. Then 1 rubber pad underneath held on also by one screw.
Yes the bottom plate slides in between the end tabs. Need to be careful when reinstalling.
The new door stop is a grab handle cut down with 1" rubber cane end. All 3 screws went into aluminum frame underneath, which pleased me. The weather strip is to allow any water to drain from inside the door.

Delco Bobby · 05-14-2016, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 17Racer

Bobby,
4 screws, 2 on each end. Then 1 rubber pad underneath held on also by one screw.
Yes the bottom plate slides in between the end tabs. Need to be careful when reinstalling.
The new door stop is a grab handle cut down with 1" rubber cane end. All 3 screws went into aluminum frame underneath, which pleased me. The weather strip is to allow any water to drain from inside the door.

OK, thanks.

I will stop worrying about the weather strip.

Once again, nice job.

Polariste · 05-15-2016, 07:20 PM

We have the very same problem with our brand new Sunseeker, the shock fell-off and the ball on the door frame is very loose and the one on the door not much better! We did not take it it out for camping yet, it is back to the dealer (already 5 weeks) to fix few problems. I will keep in mind your fix for that problem, great job 17Racer! Thank you for sharing.

Gidyupgo · 07-25-2016, 04:21 PM

Racer, if you are still around, how has this held up? Ours is a little loose and looks like it is one good gust of wind away from becoming disassembled.

17Racer · 07-25-2016, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gidyupgo

Racer, if you are still around, how has this held up? Ours is a little loose and looks like it is one good gust of wind away from becoming disassembled.

Yes, I am still around. This is a great place to keep up to date on RV information.

The fix that was shown in the pictures is doing fine. I firmly feel that the 10lb. gas strut change from the 20lb. is a better choice.

But there is no way the strength of construction of door or door sill will hold the two 10mm balls under the load they are subjected to. The door stop which stops the door before the end of travel of the strut takes nearly all the strain off the ball mounts. That trick will make it last now. The original design is simply very weak at best.

Delco Bobby · 07-25-2016, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 17Racer

Yes, I am still around. This is a great place to keep up to date on RV information.

The fix that was shown in the pictures is doing fine. I firmly feel that the 10lb. gas strut change from the 20lb. is a better choice.

But there is no way the strength of construction of door or door sill will hold the two 10mm balls under the load they are subjected to. The door stop which stops the door before the end of travel of the strut takes nearly all the strain off the ball mounts. That trick will make it last now. The original design is simply very weak at best.

Glad to hear your mod is working out besides just looking good.

Since my last post in this thread I have a Dynamax REV. At the PDI I noticed that the door strut was missing. It was pointed out to me that Dynamax uses a different system that is in the hinges. I don't recall what is called but so far it works well. The door stays wherever I leave it throughout its range of movement.

brucemc · 07-26-2016, 12:03 AM

I'll look into doing a similar mod to ours one of these days... It was sloppy from the get-go, and we've taken care to not let it slam open. I like the idea of reducing the pressure - the gas strut doesn't need to be very strong.

17Racer · 07-26-2016, 01:25 PM

Delco Bobby,

Congratulations on your new 2017 Dynamax REV 24RB.
I am sure you are very happy with your new unit. And glad to hear that it has a much better door arrangement. It does seem weird that it takes so much time to rid the camper of the pest or silly items that need to be taken care of. Good luck with that new Dynamax.

Delco Bobby · 07-26-2016, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 17Racer

Delco Bobby,

Congratulations on your new 2017 Dynamax REV 24RB.
I am sure you are very happy with your new unit. And glad to hear that it has a much better door arrangement. It does seem weird that it takes so much time to rid the camper of the pest or silly items that need to be taken care of. Good luck with that new Dynamax.

17Racer,

Thanks for the good wishes. The REV offers many upgrades over the Sunseeker. A lot of stuff that I wanted to add but comes standard with the REV. Not much difference in price. the size is about the same but a foot lower which is good in my area.

The Sunseekers/ Forresters have a beefier chassis and more horse power but I am adapting.

I didn't have a sofa in my 2250 and the bathroom was very cramped. Now I have a sofa and a very comfortable bathroom that is really nice looking. The rest of it is well appointed also.

Be Well

ShermanD · 07-27-2016, 01:55 PM

Ours has been loose since day one. sometimes I think we are better off having it a bit loose seeing as the way most things are constructed now a days. if it were tight it would probably snap off, then we would be removing the door frame.

On an added note. I did have the end connector come apart from the hydraulic cylinder. seems as though the cylinder rotates as as it opens and closes and the end piece by the frame will come loose. I happened to be right by the door when mine came loose but if it happens during a heavy wind you could be in for a world of hurt so check to see that it is tight. It is easy to pop the end connector off the frame so you can tighten the end connector..

Snowman9000 · 08-02-2016, 05:11 PM

This has been on my things to do list. Last winter in AZ I noticed that the door would go back and forth at the end of the opening cycle, and would contact the extended awning arm. It was flexing of the aluminum where the stud ball is fastened. It won't last like that. The failure photo posted above is what I expect to happen.

I was not sure how to proceed on a repair without disassembling. I was hoping to find a plate with a ball that will fit and can be screwed into place from the outside. But I now see that it needs the backer plate as shown by 17racer.

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