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Old 03-13-2014, 04:23 PM   #1
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Failed seal between cab and cab over bunk 2012 3011 DSF

I had a nasty surprise when I pulled the RV out of storage for the first trip of the year. The bed over the bunk was soaked from the bottom up, there was white mold growing and the area under the bed was a lake. The roof and sides were leak free. It probably happened within the last month. At last check that bed was dry. Thankfully I'm still in the last month of my warranty. However, I need to know where to go to get this repair done right. I am not above flat towing the toad and leaving the rig at the factory for repar if that is indeed possible. Unfortunately I freaked when I found the water and mopped up what I could so all that's left of the water is what is perking up through the trim and running down the side of the rig.
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:24 PM   #2
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That last picture is of the water running down the front of the rig. It really didn't come out.
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:59 AM   #3
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I don't see how the seal between the cab roof and cab over bunk can leak unless you are driving in a storm. My guess it's more likely you have a leaking window or roof that is running down the wall and accumulating on the bunk floor. Unless you are there when it is raining you wouldn't see any water on the wall since it will evaporate soon after the rain stops. Any joints between the cab cap and bottom edge of the over cab area could also be possible but I would expect it to be visible upon close inspection. Windows can leak if not fully closed and locked especially if the coach is not level when stored.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:14 AM   #4
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After I calmed down a bit I went around the rig again and spotted the culprit. The seal that joins the front and side of the coach has failed while the rig was in storage. It appears to have contracted or shrunk and pulled out of the groove. The area above the cab is soaked to the point that water is still perking up through the wood. I'm guessing that the area will need to be taken apart, dried and redone. It's under warranty so I'm not upset. I was more upset about the possibility of not getting to camp during the kids spring break. Even with a failed seal we are on site and enjoying ourselves. I'm just working on drying things out as best I can and looking for a way to temporarily seal the failure without causing problems for the permanent fix. Ideas?
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:06 PM   #5
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The seal pictured is a cosmetic piece to cover the screw heads. Unfortunately I don't think it is the root of your problem.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:08 PM   #6
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I agree. My 3170 trim has done the same thing. Just the vinyl shrinking. I bet all sunseekers have this problem. If dealer does not replace, I will. The reason I say this is my 3170 sits out and had a lot of snow on the roof. No leaks. I am always checking. You could have failed seal around the front clearance lights. Just a thought.
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:02 AM   #7
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That trim is not the cause. I suggest you get up on the roof and inspect the fiberglass cap metal trim strip on the roof transition, the marker lights, and the left/right junction of the roof to the front cap. Also, isn't there a roof vent over that area, was it open or cracked?
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Old 03-15-2014, 11:29 PM   #8
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As for fixing, if you don't mind going to Elkhart, IN, try to get in contact with Dan Evans (devans@forestriverinc.com / (574) 206-7605) or Rick Black (rblack@forestriverinc.com / (574) 206-7602). I would say April Conner, but I'm not sure if she's still there. Her number was (574) 206-7603 and she originally handled our scheduling when we got our Forester repaired. Rick Black and Dan Evans took care of us once there. They even set us up in a very nice hotel for almost a week. This facility is right across from the Forester plant and they will definitely take care of you.
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:34 PM   #9
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Well second round of inspections lead to finding a seal failure between the front cap and the roof. It was a shock since the roof was inspected and sound prior to storing for the winter. The pics below are before a reseal done by a mobile repair shop so I wouldn't accidentally void my warranty. The water was traced down to a light fixture that emptied out onto the bed. Water is still seeping out of cracks so I know that there are problems under the surface. Thank you for the contact info.
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:48 PM   #10
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Sorry HappyGuy this seal is the one I suspected. I caught mine before it ever leaked, it "popped" during my trip to the southwest (which was bone dry, thank God). I always recheck seals after a long trip. Anyways, I did a full 4" strip of Eternabond on that exact seal and on the left/right where is curves over the side. I also did 6" back on either side on the horizontal surface because water pools in that area. Once repaired, I suggest Eternabond, it comes in colors.
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:52 PM   #11
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I wanted to mention, in case Brian is reading from the factory - other Sunseeker/Forester owners I've met had this seal pop from traveling. Seems to be the weak point on these units..... Maybe the factory can examine how it seals these areas.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:06 PM   #12
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Old cap or new cap?
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:11 PM   #13
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Hi Brian - Looks like the same cap I had in HappyGuys 2012 picture, mine was a 2011 but had the same fiberglass cap with a trim strip over the retention band. His spot is the exact same spot and looks just like mine did. The people who had similar issues had the one piece molded cap as well.
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Old 03-16-2014, 06:09 PM   #14
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Sorry my rig is actually a 2013.
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
Old cap or new cap?
Mine is a 2014 and it popped out as well. The exact same under cove. I have the one piece fiberglass cap but not the newest design. FR warranty told my dealer to glue it in place. Cold temps make the vinyl shrink and pop out in the curve.

Bobby
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:50 PM   #16
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While your sealing or resealing, for cheap insurance, go ahead and put some dicor over those 1000 screw heads down each side where the aluminum roof radius meets the fiberglass roof. The screws are hard to see in the picture, but that's cause I had sealed over them. I mentioned it at the service center up there, and they agreed better safe than sorry. Screws can weep water very easily, and they are not sealed over from the factory, at least on our 2013 3121 it wasn't. I think I added at a minimum 2 full tubes of dicor to that roof to get it where I was satisfied with it, before we ever took it out of the garage the first time.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:26 PM   #17
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Just a heads up guys...this thread has gotten psychitzophrenic. We're talking about 10 different things.

bgilly, the "popped" you're talking about is the vinyl strip on the underside of the cap. The OP is talking about the TOP of the fiberglass cap. That's why I was asking old or new.

Old or New the bottom screw cap is the same. New cap is completely different on the top.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post

bgilly, the "popped" you're talking about is the vinyl strip on the underside of the cap. The OP is talking about the TOP of the fiberglass cap. That's why I was asking old or new.

Old or New the bottom screw cap is the same. New cap is completely different on the top.
You are right. I assumed the popped item was the vinyl strip, especially since the op started with that.
I understand better of what you were looking for. A bit overly anxious on my part to provide constructive support. My apologies.

Bobby
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:46 PM   #19
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No, no worries. That's why I mentioned the helter skelter of this thread. No one knows what we're taking about now. OP thought that was the cause of his leak originally.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:55 PM   #20
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I agree the thread jumped a bit but it seemed pretty easy for me to follow. John, I did the same thing with applying Dicor to the exposed screws on that aluminum transition strip.
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