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Old 05-13-2018, 02:33 PM   #21
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Congrats Enjoy your new Coach in good health.
Be safe out there and Vaya con Dios,
Ducky
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Old 05-13-2018, 09:17 PM   #22
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Hey congratulations!

Couple of comments. For handling, make sure you keep your rear air bags pumped up to at least 60 psi without towing. I use 75 psi towing my Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Also at 3000 miles I took mine to a really good truck alignment shop loaded and had the alignment re done. The factory sets it without the box just as a cutaway.

Major difference in handling.

I have been in very hot weather and I’ve never had trouble with the air conditioning cooling while camping.

On the way to Colorado in the summer on a 97 degree day with the sun pounding in the front window, I felt like the coach air couldn’t keep up with the rig. So i turned on the generator and ran the house air conditioning also and I was comfortable. One thing you can do with the vents iis direct the air to where you are at. So if it’s very hot you could direct more air to the front and cut off some to the bedroom and visa versa. But I’ve never had to do this.

My Sunseeker 3010 Ds is wonderful and although you have to keep any of these rigs maintained, it hasn’t been anything unexpected.

Check the front and rear roof seams. FR has had trouble with those leaking. I have added sealant to my front roof seam twice in 6 years. But I check it 2 or 3 times a year.

Don’t overload the rear compartments. You can put a lot more weight in there than they are rated to hold.

Pm if you want to talk some time.
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:38 AM   #23
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update...

We went back up to the dealer and test drove the 3011. I had no issues with it and it was a really windy day. Have a down payment on it and the dealer is prepping it for us
Beautiful coach! Love the full body paint. Enjoy and many happy trails to you!
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:13 AM   #24
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Check the front and rear roof seams. FR has had trouble with those leaking. I have added sealant to my front roof seam twice in 6 years. But I check it 2 or 3 times a year.
Leaking due to improper dicor maintenance, or leaking due to a design failure?
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:39 AM   #25
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update...

We went back up to the dealer and test drove the 3011. I had no issues with it and it was a really windy day. Have a down payment on it and the dealer is prepping it for us
Good looking unit !!!
Those Long class Cs always look out of balance to me !!!
Looks like to much MH for the chasse !!!
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:22 PM   #26
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Congratulations on your new unit. We love ours. Just do yourself a favor and run it over a CAT scale and get your front and rear weights. Keep an eye on them. I was about #440 over on my 1st long trip (rear). Fixing to upgrade my tires for more capacity so I can bigger safety margin.....

I'll be doing some steering upgrades in the next year to make it easier to drive. It really moves around in the wind.

We pull a 2003 Wrangler and get just under 8MPG....

Haven't had a trip where I can test the 15K AC unit yet, but I'll predict it will struggle to keep the unit under 80deg down here in the south.

Enjoy...and be safe.
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:41 PM   #27
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Congratulations! Beautiful rig. Happy travels.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:51 PM   #28
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appreciate the input from everyone. We will be preparing to do our PDI in the next week or so. I am familiar with the normal checklists but I was curious if any 3011 (3010) owners have input on overlooked problem areas on this trim to check.

I will check the seals as another member mentioned.

I also plan on getting the axle weights.

Thanks again everyone.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:57 AM   #29
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Congrats dinkhauler! For your PDI list, take a small mirror, flashlight, screwdriver and some painters tape. Inspect every one of those plastic drawer catches for being cracked and every hinge screw for being overtightened/stripped. Mark and number with painters tape and attach to PDI list. On our 2017, it looks like they ran all these in with a power tool and either cracked them or stripped them out. Annoying to have a drawer catch fail because someone overtightened and cracked it or a hinge come loose. Our 3010DS has been a great unit except for this. Would buy again.
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:14 AM   #30
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Congrats Dinkhauler,
We found the top of the refrigerator was not screwed in to any substantial material. In other words you could grab the top and pull away from the cabinet. Dealer had to remove and add in extra material for top. So check that good. The side strips should all line up nice. Other than that ours went smooth. Good luck and enjoy.

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Old 05-15-2018, 11:19 AM   #31
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great tips!

Another question for you folks, has the long rear overhang been a problem with bottoming out?

Is anyone using the casters or rollers and if so where were they installed and did you go with bolt or welded?

Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:37 AM   #32
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Another tip for PDI that came in handy for us. The wife did video on her phone while we went thru everything. Referred to them a couple times first year sine we were new to the RV’s.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:32 PM   #33
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Another question for you folks, has the long rear overhang been a problem....
Dinkhauler, good questions! It will sometimes if you go across a drive-to-road transition ramp straight on, if it has a good dip in it. Instead of crossing it straight on, plan ahead and take it at an angle to avoid the tail drag. Most service stations have wide enough entrances to do this. We don't have rollers and maybe had one drag our last 1600 mile trip by watching and planning ahead.

Also, read about tail swing and you learn to park a little further from gas pump islands, etc., so you have plenty of clearance when leaving.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:31 PM   #34
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On the bottom of your trailer hitch there should be two heavy “v” pieces welded to the bottom. Those are your skid pads if you drag the tail. If you want to use a roller I suggest the single solid steel version that u-bolts to your hitch receiver. Simple, inexpensive and effective.
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:25 PM   #35
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On the bottom of your trailer hitch there should be two heavy “v” pieces welded to the bottom. Those are your skid pads if you drag the tail. If you want to use a roller I suggest the single solid steel version that u-bolts to your hitch receiver. Simple, inexpensive and effective.
We need these rollers! Where do you get these, Duckogram?
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:34 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by dinkhauler View Post
great tips!

Another question for you folks, has the long rear overhang been a problem with bottoming out?

Is anyone using the casters or rollers and if so where were they installed and did you go with bolt or welded?

Thanks!
Has only happened to me twice that I remember, and both times at gas stations where I failed to notice the rise from the road, into the stations parking lot. Both times while traveling through smaller towns.

Congratulations on your new Forester !
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:19 AM   #37
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We need these rollers! Where do you get these, Duckogram?
You never said whether you have the V skids or not.
If you do have the V skids, you can use something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels...48-979020.html
(Amazon has them as well)

There are V skids with rollers to replace your V skids for about $200 and cutting and welding.

If you do not have V skids there are many more options for weld on and bolt on rollers.
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:42 AM   #38
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Forester 2501 vs 3011 vs 3051 (27 vs 32 foot motorhome)

Quote:
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You never said whether you have the V skids or not.

If you do have the V skids, you can use something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels...48-979020.html

(Amazon has them as well)



There are V skids with rollers to replace your V skids for about $200 and cutting and welding.



If you do not have V skids there are many more options for weld on and bolt on rollers.
Yes, we have the V skids. We practically scrape these off every time we pull into our driveway coming within a hair of hitting those super low leveler jacks! You should see all the marks from our V skids on our road in front of our driveway! We need a new house with a FLAT driveway. So tired of this problem. Hopefully the rollers will help. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:45 PM   #39
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We have a 2016 forester 3051, we love it. The reason we went with 3051 instead of 3011 was that I wanted the full wall slide out, and that people can sit at the dinette and couch and talk easy to each other, plus when the awning is out I have no slide in the awning area.
I park our unit in the back yard and have never bottomed out yet. By the way we have almost 21000 miles on our unit.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:56 AM   #40
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Yes, we have the V skids. We practically scrape these off every time we pull into our driveway coming within a hair of hitting those super low leveler jacks! You should see all the marks from our V skids on our road in front of our driveway! We need a new house with a FLAT driveway. So tired of this problem. Hopefully the rollers will help. Thanks for the info.
I have noticed that a number of people that have a similar issue put down some boards to use as a temporary ramp to get the RV in the driveway without scrapping.
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