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Old 12-24-2015, 05:11 PM   #81
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Older rigs had plenty of leak problems too. For many years almost all rv's had wood frames and batting type insulation. Also the sealants used were nowhere as good as we have now. I'd venture to say that you could pick out any 20 year old rv off of any lot, and you'd find rot or water damage.
Problem with what we have now is lack of workmenship in constructing these things.
Workers slap these things togather so fast that I'm sure a lot of short cuts are taken, and areas left without a proper amount of caulk, forgotten screws, things not attached right.
Remember, just a one or two inch gap in a seam, without proper caulk or a window frame not sealed properly will let in a LOT of water over a period of time.

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Old 12-24-2015, 07:51 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Highway View Post
I have to say, I went all over the roof, and there is no logical place for water to get in...I know how tricky water is, but the only place I can make any sense is in the clearance lights over the cab. There is a lot of sealant over all of the screws and seams, and it accumulates in the cap, but not inside of it but between the cap and the cab and only appears to come in through the visors and storage above the seats in the cab. It is definitely not anything obvious.
In a nutshell - it is the way the roof to cap and roof to sidewall is designed. They use this transition "trim" which acts like a dam on the roof. If the transition trim wasn't properly sealed then water channels into the trim and entering into the coach interior through securing screws. You could go months and not know water is seeping in.
My front fiberglass cap clearance lights also leaked water in. The way the clearance light recessed is designed, water running off the roof to the front cap is then channeled into the recess where the clearance lights area mounted. Water gathers around that recess and seeps in through the fixture lens or through poor sealant at the base of the fixture.
The roof to walls should be designed like a turtle back. Water should roll off without any ledges or transitions that rise higher than the roof or be lapped.

I placed my coach under pressure with a powerful force air blower and then sprayed it with a soapy solution. Where ever bubbles formed is where the air was getting out. If air leaked out, water can leak in.

I've done the same as Grumpy; resealed most of the roof and slideout caulked joints and transitions with Eternabond.

Frankly I am tired of fixing more than using the coach. I recently found I have more leaks to chase down.


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Old 12-24-2015, 11:16 PM   #83
Join Date: Mar 2015
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Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
Yes they do, there's a third party pdi that puts it through a rain storm.

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
Brian Clemens posted this message regarding leak testing on the Forester Forum on 2/11/2013:


Here is the relevant text:

"100% of our units are leak tested in a rain booth and pressure tested (a commercial fan is attached to a false door pressurizing the unit, then a soap solution is sprayed on the vehicle to check for air leaks). If the unit set on the dealer lot for a decent amout of time, it should have been rechecked before retail delivery. Also, we check them on a fairly level surface, so slope can play a factor as well."

This begs the question as to how some Forester coaches leave the factory with fairly severe roof envelope problems.
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Old 12-25-2015, 12:13 AM   #84
Join Date: Oct 2015
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Oh man that's very disheartening ! The rotten thing here is , I love this coach but it doesn't sound like its a good roof design. Hey FR, please redesign the roof and fix us folks up with a better option than climbing up there and doing the work ourselves. I for one have no desire to chase down leaks. I'd rather enjoy this rig.
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Old 12-25-2015, 12:16 AM   #85
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That's exactly what I told my dealer but he insists its FR's problem. All I want to do is 'bond' with my rig but in the five weeks I've owned it the dealer had it for over two weeks fixing problems.
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:50 AM   #86
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Auntielo 1

Don't despair. You're getting responses from some who had trouble. Those responses are important to learn about possible problems and the solutions, but don't really tell you how common they are.

Many others, including myself, have had no problems. Our Sunseeker is over 5 years old with 40,000 miles shaking it and over 450 nights camping. I cleaned the roof and checked it closely when I winterized it a few weeks ago. The roof is fine. I've never had to reseal anything.

Give Forest River a chance to fix it and try to not worry yourself unecessarily.
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1997 Pathfinder Toad
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Old 12-25-2015, 08:43 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by grumpy0374 View Post
I'm going to throw this out as a preventive measure, especially to those who are buying new rigs...
We bought our Lexi used. It was ordered by original owner, and from day one was kept in a covered garage. He had it for one year, and made only one trip, and put it up for sale. We bought it. It had apparently not been exposed to inclement weather, and was like a new rig.
I had read numerous posts about leaks, and upon getting it home, did the following...
Gave the roof a good cleaning...wasen't dirty, but I wanted it clean.
Bought a dozen tubes of Dicor Self Leveling Caulk, two 50 ft rolls of 2" Eternabond tape and one 50 ft roll of 4" Eternabond tape.
Spent two days adding extra layers of the Dicor to all the seams where anything came up through the roof. Pulled the vinyl screw coverings off the side rails and laid a bead of Dicor down the entire channel, and reapplied the vinyl covers. This is important as there's no caulk or sealant there originally, just exposed screw heads. You would be shocked to see how little caulk or protection there is in some areas.
Used the 2" Eternabond and overlapped the entire length of both sides of the Lexi where the roof meets the side walls. Used the 4" Eternabond to cover the front and back cap seams where they meet the roof.
Wherever I found a screw, it got replaced by a stainless steel screw with a dab of Dicor covering it.
I removed all the front and rear clearence lights, cleaned up the area, and resealed them with a bead of Dicor.
Screws holding the rear ladder were taken out, replaced with stainless steel screws that had had the threads dipped in Dicor, and when remounted, covered with another dab of Dicor.
May seem like a bit of overkill, but in two years I've never found a drop of water inside. I still get up on the roof every other month or so to clean and check the caulk for cracks, but with a double layer haven't found any yet.
Once you get your rigs back from FR, I would suggest you take a long hard look at what can be done. May cost a few bucks, but never having to worry about leaks makes it well worth it.

Can you come over tomorrow?
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:44 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by Cfritts View Post
Joshua - how about messaging me your number. My rig is sitting at Poulsbo RV in Auburn, WA right now, taken in yesterday for this very issue.
good luck with Poulsbo rv...
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:55 PM   #89
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My Forester MBS had/has water between the walls as well. I parked on a slope forward and sideways at the curb and water drained out of the front bottom part of the cap and out of the lower front corner of the house behind the step. Looks like less than quart. Hope that is all there is. The dehumidifier is a good idea. I'll be off to the FR dealer for a roof cap reseal too.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:30 PM   #90
Join Date: Oct 2015
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UPDATE!!!! Forest River has taken good care of me regarding my leak issues!! Hang in there folks.

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leak, roo, roof

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