Appreciate any suggestions for mounting TV in bedroom of a Forester/Sunseeker with corner bed. I think I have the studs, such as they are, located by looking in pantry and pushing on wall. I have a small 20 inch flat screen.
What kind of wall mount is used? What kind of screws? "Studs" are not very thick want to make sure I don't go thru into pantry.
Pictures appreciated.
Joshua how are they mounted by FR?
Yep cold & snowy outside but thinking about next mods and spring break trip to the beach.
That looks like the front bedroom wall in my 2301 - except there's a TV mounted there.
I didn't like the position of the 12v/cable plug being down so low where the plug could get kicked by accident. I moved my plug up about 16 inches from the factory position. I found when I cut the hole through the wall surface that there was a piece of what looks to be 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood in back of the center section of the wall. My TV is factory mounted so I'm assuming the plywood was put there to support the TV mount. Yours should be the same as I don't see FR building the wall and mounting the 12v/cable plug there without putting the reinforcement behind the wall.
I don't have any photos of mine, but it looks like yours.
Like Fred I also have a model 2301. Not sure what you have? Here are some pictures of my wall showing where mounted. My MH came with a 32” TV mounted on this wall. I thought it was way too big for my use and I also wanted a 12 volt model that would draw less than 3 amps. I looking for a 19-20” that has built in DVD player. Or get a separate DVD player. Took off a slightly bigger back board and replaced with the one shown, 19” will be much lighter.
As you can see your bedroom light switch is in more from the edge of the wall than mine, and there may be other differences also.
The mounting board is 9 ½ wide by 8 ½ high.
The 4 perimeter screws are 8” apart horizontal.
The 2 lag screws are 9 1/8” from the edge of wall.
110 outlet is 8 ¼” from edge of wall to edge of outlet cover.
Mounting bracket on wall is 4 ½” lower than the bottom of cabinets.
Looks like you have done a lot of nice work to your MH. Take a look at my towel hangers, you might like. Since the door is made of thin material a thru hole was used and a clamp effect that holds them I place.
Here is the mount I used for a 20" fixed:
Peerless SFL624 SmartMountLT VESA 75 and 100mm Flat Wall Mount for 10-Inch to 24-Inch Displays, Black
Bought from Amazon $8.56 PRIME
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Tow Vehicle - 2016 Ford F150 Lariat Platinum Limited
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We recently installed a 19" Jensen JE1912 purchased on eBay in the bedroom of our 2500TS. Our unit is similar to your model except for the slides. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures.
To do a clean mount, I removed the 12 volt/cable wall receptacle and move it aside. Using an aluminum yard stick (tape measure will work), I slipped it upward inside the wall and flexing it toward me inside the wall panel until it bumped the backer board. I took that measurement at the receptacle cut-out hole. I then used this measurement on the outside of the wall and marked it with masking tape. I knew this was the bottom of the backer board. Using that mark, I measured down from the ceiling, moved to the point I wanted to place the mount and marked it with masking tape. Using a flashlight and DW's compact mirror, I looked inside the wall to make sure I would not damage any wiring.
Using #8 x 1 1/4" wood screws, I attached the swivel mount above the masking tape mark, solidly attaching it to the backer board. You can not use a level unless you are absolutely certain the camper is level. I did a measure from the outside wall to the screw holes.
I then placed a household electrical wall plate (for a coax cable connection) with a single hole in the center to mark where a half inch hole through the wall is drilled. A piece of masking tape on the bit as a depth gauge was used so as not to drill through the opposing wall panel. (Though there is a retrofit 2"x4" box for low voltage mounting made for this purpose, I felt that cutting a large hole would weaken the backer board.)
On the plastic wall plate, I drilled a second 3/8" hole just above the center hole. The plastic plate was painted to match the TV mount. From the front of the plate, feeding a coax cable through the center hole and the 12V power supply power cable through the 2nd hole, I fished the wires through the 1/2" hole back inside to the factory 12v/coax hole, then attached the plate at the TV mount to the wall with small wood screws. The TV 12v line was spliced to the RV system behind the cigarette lighter. The coax was removed from the factory plate and a coupler was used to connect the factory coax run directly to the TV coax extension. Once tested, the factory 12v/coax receptacle was re-installed.
I made certain that the wires coming from the wall at the mount to the TV fully followed the articulating features of the mount, had enough length to allow for the TV connections and then zip tied them to the mount. The 12v cigarette lighter still functions at the wall plate. The coax at that point is now inactive. The TV 12v feed has an accessible fuse just behind the TV. There are no wires showing or hanging down. We have used it several times and it looks great and works perfectly. This would work exceptionally well for you with the corner bed. Hope this helps.
If you are at all handy, this is not difficult. I was a little apprehensive at first, but once I started, it was a piece of cake. The hardest part was feeding the wires which was really not that hard. Because the mount will be more to the inside corner from the 12v/coax opening, you can use a coat hanger or 12-14ga electrical wire to make a "hook" to catch the wires to the opening. Or, you can feed a piece of string inside the wall from one point to the other. Fish tape? Better yet. Make sure you have polarity. The hot lead at the cigarette lighter is at the bottom. The ground is on the side (barrel). Just think McGiver!
I have a 2016 Flagstaff Classic SuperLite that I mounted a 19" tv in the bedroom. The wall had the receptacle and cable plate already mounted near the BR door with a mark on the wall where the stud
was supposed to be located. Didn't trust the factory so I used a stud finder to locate the stud. Good thing I did because the stud was off the mark by an inch. I drilled a very small pilot hole tie sure the stud was there then installed an articulated mount.
Nice day in the Buckeye State. Good time to mount the TV. Got a Peerless ETF100 mount and attached with no problem. There is a backer board behind the wall in the bedroom.
I just saw this post! Looks great! There should be steel backers in there to hold the TV up. It's similar to how we mount our cabinets.
If you're ever looking for a steel backer you can always take a magnet and move it over the area in question.
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Does this mount with three screws? My dealer said put screw where it is marked on wall. I like the idea you have mentioned about open up and looking into wall cavity. Do you have pictures of this install?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PenJoe
We recently installed a 19" Jensen JE1912 purchased on eBay in the bedroom of our 2500TS. Our unit is similar to your model except for the slides. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures.
To do a clean mount, I removed the 12 volt/cable wall receptacle and move it aside. Using an aluminum yard stick (tape measure will work), I slipped it upward inside the wall and flexing it toward me inside the wall panel until it bumped the backer board. I took that measurement at the receptacle cut-out hole. I then used this measurement on the outside of the wall and marked it with masking tape. I knew this was the bottom of the backer board. Using that mark, I measured down from the ceiling, moved to the point I wanted to place the mount and marked it with masking tape. Using a flashlight and DW's compact mirror, I looked inside the wall to make sure I would not damage any wiring.
Using #8 x 1 1/4" wood screws, I attached the swivel mount above the masking tape mark, solidly attaching it to the backer board. You can not use a level unless you are absolutely certain the camper is level. I did a measure from the outside wall to the screw holes.
I then placed a household electrical wall plate (for a coax cable connection) with a single hole in the center to mark where a half inch hole through the wall is drilled. A piece of masking tape on the bit as a depth gauge was used so as not to drill through the opposing wall panel. (Though there is a retrofit 2"x4" box for low voltage mounting made for this purpose, I felt that cutting a large hole would weaken the backer board.)
On the plastic wall plate, I drilled a second 3/8" hole just above the center hole. The plastic plate was painted to match the TV mount. From the front of the plate, feeding a coax cable through the center hole and the 12V power supply power cable through the 2nd hole, I fished the wires through the 1/2" hole back inside to the factory 12v/coax hole, then attached the plate at the TV mount to the wall with small wood screws. The TV 12v line was spliced to the RV system behind the cigarette lighter. The coax was removed from the factory plate and a coupler was used to connect the factory coax run directly to the TV coax extension. Once tested, the factory 12v/coax receptacle was re-installed.
I made certain that the wires coming from the wall at the mount to the TV fully followed the articulating features of the mount, had enough length to allow for the TV connections and then zip tied them to the mount. The 12v cigarette lighter still functions at the wall plate. The coax at that point is now inactive. The TV 12v feed has an accessible fuse just behind the TV. There are no wires showing or hanging down. We have used it several times and it looks great and works perfectly. This would work exceptionally well for you with the corner bed. Hope this helps.
If you are at all handy, this is not difficult. I was a little apprehensive at first, but once I started, it was a piece of cake. The hardest part was feeding the wires which was really not that hard. Because the mount will be more to the inside corner from the 12v/coax opening, you can use a coat hanger or 12-14ga electrical wire to make a "hook" to catch the wires to the opening. Or, you can feed a piece of string inside the wall from one point to the other. Fish tape? Better yet. Make sure you have polarity. The hot lead at the cigarette lighter is at the bottom. The ground is on the side (barrel). Just think McGiver!
That would be fine. Not going any were for month and half.
Got back. Here are the pictures. None of the wires or boxes show which is the point. The shelf above was made with two Home Depot brackets and the shelf is oak stained to match the RV woodwork. The DVD (blu Ray player), when there, is held in place by self adhesive backed Velcro. A short HDMI cable is also concealed. The black webbed pocket to the lower left of the TV is for the remote. We found that at a truck stop. None of this interferes with movement around the bed. We use the blu ray in the house when not using the RV.
Does anybody know if there is a backer board in the 2251LE? The TV would mount of that very flimsy bathroom wall. I can feel a vertical stud about midway in the wall. I possibly could mount a wooded piece to the stud, then mount the TV mount to that. It would be nice just to be able to screw the mount in directly.
Does anybody know if there is a backer board in the 2251LE? The TV would mount of that very flimsy bathroom wall. I can feel a vertical stud about midway in the wall. I possibly could mount a wooded piece to the stud, then mount the TV mount to that. It would be nice just to be able to screw the mount in directly.
thx Rich Guess
If you see a 12 volt "cigarette lighter" wall plug and a coax port, there should be a backer board near the top of the wall. See above photo. If you do have those receptacles, remove the two mounting screws and use a small mirror and flashlight to look up inside. The 12 volt/coax cover plate does not have a box behind it.