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Old 03-23-2014, 10:25 PM   #21
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This is what I use;
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems_pt30c.htm
In addition to surge protection and checking for correct plug wiring, it protects for under/over voltage conditions. The down side is that it is expensive. I'm glad I got it before I retired.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:43 AM   #22
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And if I had the knowledge I wouldn't need to ask these questions....

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That's why we're trying to 'splain it to ya!

I know, most of us coming from the non-RV world look at a 3 or 4 pronged plug (like we have in the house for a dryer) and think "uh-oh, that's 240V." But in the RV world, all the plugs (with a few exceptions) are 110V plugs, just with different amp ratings. I even had to 'splain it to my electrician when I had him put my 30A RV outlet on my garage. It's not exactly intuitive by looking at it.

The surge protectors that have been suggested are good insurance for your camper's electrical wiring and your peace of mind, but the good ones are expensive. Still cheap insurance though. Good luck with the rest of your mystery!
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:20 PM   #23
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Apologies if this was already asked, but are you sure the circuit breaker (on the pedestal) didn't trip for the 30AMP outlet?

The pedestals will (or should) have a separate breaker for the 30 amp, 50 amp, and 15/20 amp outlet (assuming the pedestal contains more than one plug). That may explain why you got juice on the 15/20 amp and not on the 30, especially since you say your 30 amp connection worked fine at home.
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:14 PM   #24
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We were camped at an older campground that had a pedestal with the 30 amp plug and the double 15amp plug. The breakers for several sites were on a nearby pole. None of the breakers were marked and nor was our site All this was discovered upon breaking camp. I'm sure the 30 amp plug was faulty since the check light on the fridge did go off and on the last evening of our stay. Will most definitely have one of those meters before our next outing. Thanks everyone for all the replays

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Old 03-25-2014, 12:29 PM   #25
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To answer one of your original questions. If you start the engine and wait a minute, it will begin supplying 12 volt power to the coach circuits. You would then be able to operate the slides and start the generator.

If the problem was reversed and you could not start the engine but had coach battery power (or generator running), you would hold down the emergency start switch which is located down low on the outside edge of the driver's seat base. While holding that switch down, the coach and chassis batteries will be connected together and you will have power to start the engine. (If you don't know where that switch is, from the outside, open the driver's door and look at the base of the seat. From the inside, you should be able to feel it with your left arm almost fully extended down while seated in the driver's seat).

BTW, if you had power to operate the microwave, then you had 110v power. If only the 30 amp plug was plugged in, then it was working. Maybe the breaker popped during the night. Or someone turned yours off by mistake.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:39 PM   #26
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Rvbill3 Thank you. I need to copy your information and put it in the coach. So helpful !!

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Old 03-25-2014, 12:49 PM   #27
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To RvBill3...one more question for you. We first noticed something was going on the last evening there when the fridge check light came on. I pulled out the book and saw how to reset it by turning the fridge off then on again. Had to do this a couple of times the last evening. Then the next morning is when all went wrong. An ideas?

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Old 03-25-2014, 01:00 PM   #28
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After plugging into the 30 amp receptacle, I use an inexpensive circuit tester to test a 110v outlet for polarity. That tells me all is good (or not) with the shore power.
If you have plugged in to shore power and there are problems (polarity, hi voltage, et al) it is too late...

When you look at the expense of getting your RV repaired from bad electricity, unless you are a electrician and can DIY, the unit I mentioned previously in this thread is the way to go.

Other things can happen at a camp *after* you do the initial power check....15 more units may plug in and cause a big voltage drop (low voltage can kill your A/C!) The electric company's system monitor could see the voltage drop and over-compensate and cause a over voltage situation (again fried everything)

These are just two situations that beg for constant monitoring. The higher end monitors not only detect under/over voltage but, if they exceed safe operation range, the unit cuts power to your RV until electricity returns to normal operation - then waits 45 or so SEC to ensure it is not being sporodic and then restores power to your unit gently so as not to offent start up compressors on your roof A/C
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:11 PM   #29
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The check light on the refrigerator means the gas burner is not igniting. It tries three times then goes into a safety shutdown and the light comes on. So why the gas burner? If you had the refrigerator on "auto" it will run on electric (110 volt) if available or switch over to gas if no power is available. Many people leave it on this setting. When plugged into shore power (or generator), it runs on electricity. When power is disconnected or not available it switches to gas.

So (I'm guessing here), your refrigerator was running on electric when you plugged in at the campsite. Whatever happened to the electric, when it went off, your refrigerator switched to gas. If the propane tank was not turned on, it would try to light, then fail and check light would come on. Also, if the propane line had air in it, it may not light immediately and would go into shutdown before a steady gas flow got to the refrigerator. (When you first turn on propane, light a burner on the stove until the air is out of the line--steady flame, mostly blue--then start the refrigerator).

One other possibility. The refrigerator, whether on electric or gas, needs 12 volts for the control circuits (and interior light). If your battery got very low because you did not actually have shore power recharging it, the refrigerator may not have been able to light the gas burner--thus the check light.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:20 PM   #30
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Rvbill3 I bet it was the last possibility since the inside light was off also. Tks

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