Hydraulic Jack

[dragon60732000]

We just went camping this weekend and when we are ready to leave and raise our Bigfoot it is all the way up but it was making a beeping sound. Pushed retract all and still beeps. We tried to put it down to see if the beeping stop but it won't go down. Anyone have a solution?

[dyeats]

Batteries may be low. Might need to plug in to shore power to operate.
Key should not be in ignition to operate.
Now attempt to raise the jacks. After visually verifying, power the system off.
You should be ok to go drive home now.

[newRVer]

Originally Posted by dyeats

Batteries may be low. Might need to plug in to shore power to operate.
Key should not be in ignition to operate.
Now attempt to raise the jacks. After visually verifying, power the system off.
You should be ok to go drive home now.

Everything I've read seems to indicate it's best to operate the jacks with shore power or generator on to avoid draining batteries or having issues with weak batteries. Makes sense to me so that what I do. If you don't have shore power available its also a good excuse to exercise the generator.

[dyeats]

That's a great idea to get regular exercise for generator whenever leveling.

[Sagecoachdriver]

Originally Posted by newRVer

Everything I've read seems to indicate it's best to operate the jacks with shore power or generator on to avoid draining batteries or having issues with weak batteries. Makes sense to me so that what I do. If you don't have shore power available its also a good excuse to exercise the generator.

My dealer told me that also for both levelers and slideouts. Your house batteries may be low after dry camping overnight. Trying to bring in your slideouts and then raise the levelers with batteries not fully charged can cause unnecessary stress on the motors and pump.
I have always fired up my generator at the campgrounds and let it run for a minute or two to make sure the system is at peak voltage and amperage capability. Then I bring in the slides and raise the levelers. Really, why overheat the motors and pump?

[LinandLen]

Sagecoach, I have a question about using the manual feature. I tried the manual leveling for the first time this last camping trip. I get it when lowering the levelers as pairs, but I'm still unsure about retracting them. When we were breaking down camp and ready to retract the levelers, I turned the Big Foot power on and pressed "Retract;" however, it retracted in pairs from side to side instead of the retracting as pairs from rear and front. Something felt off. If I want to retract manually, do I hold down the retract button and the levelers I want to retract at the same time? Also, our rear passenger side leveler doesn't retract all the way. I had to press emergency retract for this one leveler to go up all the way. Adding this to the bent pin situation, I think we just need to have our leveling system serviced.

[Sagecoachdriver]

Originally Posted by LinandLen

Sagecoach, I have a question about using the manual feature. I tried the manual leveling for the first time this last camping trip. I get it when lowering the levelers as pairs, but I'm still unsure about retracting them. When we were breaking down camp and ready to retract the levelers, I turned the Big Foot power on and pressed "Retract;" however, it retracted in pairs from side to side instead of the retracting as pairs from rear and front. Something felt off. If I want to retract manually, do I hold down the retract button and the levelers I want to retract at the same time? Also, our rear passenger side leveler doesn't retract all the way. I had to press emergency retract for this one leveler to go up all the way. Adding this to the bent pin situation, I think we just need to have our leveling system serviced.

LinandLen, I have the Platinum with the front to rear only automatic and manual side to side.. Since I am concerned that the rear wheels may come off the ground and make the MH unstable, I only use the manual feature. I bought a Levelmate Pro https://www.logicbluetech.com/
I find it quick to level the MH.
I have a different touch button panel on mine than the fully automatic and I just hit "Retract all". You have that option too and I'd use it. I never paid much attention as to how they retract. On yours, to manually retract, I believe you just hit the "manual" then retract button and then touch and hold those you want to retract. Perhaps someone else with the Fully Auto can chime in here!
I would change that bent pin out first. It is really simple.

[dragon60732000]

Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver

LinandLen, I have the Platinum with the front to rear only automatic and manual side to side.. Since I am concerned that the rear wheels may come off the ground and make the MH unstable, I only use the manual feature. I bought a Levelmate Pro https://www.logicbluetech.com/
I find it quick to level the MH.
I have a different touch button panel on mine than the fully automatic and I just hit "Retract all". You have that option too and I'd use it. I never paid much attention as to how they retract. On yours, to manually retract, I believe you just hit the "manual" then retract button and then touch and hold those you want to retract. Perhaps someone else with the Fully Auto can chime in here!
I would change that bent pin out first. It is really simple.

Thank you for letting me know that it's easy to change the bent pins, I got a quote and it's expensive because of labor involved, where did you order the pin, can you share info on how to change the pin. Thank you

[HopHed]

Originally Posted by dragon60732000

Thank you for letting me know that it's easy to change the bent pins, I got a quote and it's expensive because of labor involved, where did you order the pin, can you share info on how to change the pin. Thank you

You can search a prior thread "Bent another Big Foot leveler pin" for more info.
In a nutshell here is what I do:
Lower the jack in question to clear the pin a few inches for access. Disconnect wiring to limit switch then remove it using a wrench. Cut off the pin as close to the bottom of the bushing it is coming through. I would not bend the pin back in place for fear of damaging the bushing. (see prior posts). You can then take the new pin to push the top portion of the old pin, from the bottom, up and out. you can then drop the new pin in from the top and reinstall the limit switch and connect wiring. Should take no more then 5-10 minutes to do. Only tools needed are hacksaw and adjustable wrench or open end wrench that fits the limit switch. There is also a diagram of the pin, bushing and limit switch in the manual.

I get my pins at the Do It Center for .95 each and bought several. You can also get in bulk at Home Depot in which Sagecoach noted in post #10 on the prior thread as to the link/info through Home Depot.

[Sagecoachdriver]

Hey HopHed, do you think putting the little black cap on the end of the pin will help? May allow the foot to slide better without damaging the pin. It's mentioned somewhere on the Bigfoot site.

from their site:
Do It Yourself
Limit Switches
Installation: Apply Dielectric Grease to the limit switch ball & surrounding area & the clevis pin itself.
Maintenance: Spray clevis pin with Teflon Spray or apply grease again. You should annually detach the limit switch assembly and re-grease the ball.

Also, here it talks about the vacuum cap to add a slight amount of pin length to help it disengage.

Troubleshooting – No “All Up” Light
Auto Leveling/Platinum Control: If the “All Up” light is not coming on and you hear the buzzing sound from your panel when the vehicle ignition is on it might be a limit switch on one of the jacks. After attempting to retract all four jacks from the panel and doing a visual check to verify that the jacks are indeed retracted but the panel has no “All Up” light. The first step is to extend each jack a few inches and individually retract one at a time. Sometimes the foot pad retracts crooked and doesn’t fully engage the pin. If that doesn’t work, with the jacks fully retracted, press the RETRACT button on the panel and manually pull each limit switch pin up to see if that engages the switch, if the panel shuts the pump off then that limit switch is not engaging properly. To fix this, it could be the foot pad is loose, remove & re-tighten the 3⁄4” nut with a 1 1/16” socket with an impact wrench. If this does not work you can get a “vacuum cap” at your local hardware store for the 1⁄4” diameter pin which extends the length of the pin and completes the circuit.
If you have an “All Up” light but your jacks are NOT fully retracted, we call this a false all up light, this means you have a bad limit switch (they can stick in the “passing” position due to build-up of road debris or rust).
To get you out of a jam or to bypass this... Central pump systems: disconnect the wires to the limit switch, and plug the two wires from the harness that usually go to the limit switch and plug them into each other (black & tan wires) this closes the circuit and allows the jack to be retracted. Quad pump systems: connect the colored wire from the main harness and connect it to the ground wire from the limit switch (or to frame).

[HopHed]

Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver

Hey HopHed, do you think putting the little black cap on the end of the pin will help? May allow the foot to slide better without damaging the pin. It's mentioned somewhere on the Bigfoot site.

from their site:
Do It Yourself
Limit Switches
Installation: Apply Dielectric Grease to the limit switch ball & surrounding area & the clevis pin itself.
Maintenance: Spray clevis pin with Teflon Spray or apply grease again. You should annually detach the limit switch assembly and re-grease the ball.

Also, here it talks about the vacuum cap to add a slight amount of pin length to help it disengage.

Troubleshooting – No “All Up” Light
Auto Leveling/Platinum Control: If the “All Up” light is not coming on and you hear the buzzing sound from your panel when the vehicle ignition is on it might be a limit switch on one of the jacks. After attempting to retract all four jacks from the panel and doing a visual check to verify that the jacks are indeed retracted but the panel has no “All Up” light. The first step is to extend each jack a few inches and individually retract one at a time. Sometimes the foot pad retracts crooked and doesn’t fully engage the pin. If that doesn’t work, with the jacks fully retracted, press the RETRACT button on the panel and manually pull each limit switch pin up to see if that engages the switch, if the panel shuts the pump off then that limit switch is not engaging properly. To fix this, it could be the foot pad is loose, remove & re-tighten the 3⁄4” nut with a 1 1/16” socket with an impact wrench. If this does not work you can get a “vacuum cap” at your local hardware store for the 1⁄4” diameter pin which extends the length of the pin and completes the circuit.
If you have an “All Up” light but your jacks are NOT fully retracted, we call this a false all up light, this means you have a bad limit switch (they can stick in the “passing” position due to build-up of road debris or rust).
To get you out of a jam or to bypass this... Central pump systems: disconnect the wires to the limit switch, and plug the two wires from the harness that usually go to the limit switch and plug them into each other (black & tan wires) this closes the circuit and allows the jack to be retracted. Quad pump systems: connect the colored wire from the main harness and connect it to the ground wire from the limit switch (or to frame).

I was going to try with the cap on just for fun but thought it might add too much length to the pin. I guess the worse that could happen is it shuts off just a little early which would not hurt. Will see what happens if/when it drags again.
I guess its time to do some of the maintenance noted above. Maybe I'll wait until winter when I put the cover on it.

[Sagecoachdriver]

HopHed, I wasn't aware of the need for pin maintenance. I spoke with Bigfoot shortly after my first bent pin. Again, he said ok to move it up a notch based on their suggested foot above ground clearance. He also mentioned that there is the option of replacing the leveler with a shorter one. However, it would probably not give much lift without pads underneath. At $500 each, it's not a viable option. I have the 7" square flat feet and I see they have replacement feet 10" square with flared up edges. Although the flared up edges would help ours the 10" would strike sooner and more aggressively I think. I believe keeping the air in the bags up to 70psi helps some.