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Old 02-04-2018, 02:02 PM   #1
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Ice maker - What I have learned - Cracked valve

Okay, I've learned a lot in the last two days. I have a new Forester 3011DS. I'm in Houston and it rarely gets too far below freezing down here.....but it did a few weeks ago. My unit has a button on the touch panel (One Control) even though my FR MSRP build sheet says I don't have the arctic package. Given that, I had the MH in the driveway and ran the heat inside during the cold weather. All seemed good until last night when I turned on the water pump and water came out the refrigerator cover outside. The ice-maker valve had cracked. I did not have the arctic button on during the freeze as I didn't have much in the holding tanks and the fresh water in inside under the bed is almost full. That would take some really cold weather to freeze. That being said, I found a heater wrap around the ice-maker valve. Is that 12v or 110v?

I also learned the ice-maker valve is 110v only, so no making ice while traveling or not on shore power (or generator). Good to know....

I found an exact replacement valve on Amazon for $28. Lesson learned...easy to replace as it took me 2 minutes to take the cracked one out. I turned off the supply to the ice-make with the push/pull valve under the oven. No other damage due to freezing as water work fine.

I want to test the heating wire that wraps the valve but I think it has a thermostat and needs to be below a certain temp to come on. Since the valve is so close to the outside, I fully understand why it froze and cracked.

Any info is appreciated. I've only had this thing for 2 months now and I learn something every time I use it.

Thanks in advance.....
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:49 PM   #2
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FastSs, we have the Sunseeker with ice maker in Atlanta. When it's forecast into the 30's, I drain and purge with air, cycling the ice maker several times by turning the small gear under the icemaker end cover until only air is coming out. Then, close the white plastic push/pull water shut-off
valve upstream from your valve that froze. Mine is accessable by removing the inside wooden panel below the fridge.
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:05 PM   #3
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I have a 2016 3011 with an icemaker and artic package. I am not aware that the ice maker valve has any kind of heating element tied into the artic package. I.e. I believe the artic package is for the tanks only. Even if it did you would have to figure out a way to prevent the rest of the water line from freezing as well.

However, where I am currently living it should not an problem as I winterize for the season although we are looking to move south and depending on where we go I could see having the same issue. I may have to figure out a way to improve upon the current design at some point if I think we will have water in the ice maker line during cold spells.
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gidyupgo View Post
FastSs, we have the Sunseeker with ice maker in Atlanta. When it's forecast into the 30's, I drain and purge with air, cycling the ice maker several times by turning the small gear under the icemaker end cover until only air is coming out. Then, close the white plastic push/pull water shut-off
valve upstream from your valve that froze. Mine is accessable by removing the inside wooden panel below the fridge.
FYI

I got an old extension cord, cut off the receptacle end and added two electrical connectors to the ends. Now when I need to winterize or remove water from the ice maker line all I need to do is plug in my cord to the 110 outlet used by the fridge, touch them to the valve terminals and the valve opens. This seems to be better way of opening the valve as it does not involve touching the ice maker itself and I can directly control the amount of time the valve stays open.
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:47 AM   #5
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We have a 2017 Forester 3011DS. Our ice maker broke last winter because we didn’t fully understand how it works. The Artic Package has nothing to do with it. the fine print in your instructions tell you that there is a heater wrap on the ice maker that comes on automatically at freezing temperatures while the ice maker is operating. It also says that in order to winterize, all water must be removed from the system which should be done by a trained technician. some of the other posts here have offered alternatives to that. We have a pad next to our house with a water and sewer source and a 30/50 amp pedestal so we do not winterize. We just keep our rig heated with an oil heater, use a small My Heat heater in the water compartment and let the ice maker operate and make sure the water heater heats the tank overnight. We have had extended cold spells down to 18 degrees this year and the ice maker just keeps churning out ice at a break neck pace. Anyone need ice?
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:37 PM   #6
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I was wondering what activates the ice maker valve heater. I suppose it's explained in the owners manual but I don't recall seeing anything about it.

You say the heater comes on automatically when the ice maker is operating. So if I raise the arm to stop making ice, even though I'm plugged into shore power I'm also turning off the heater?
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:14 AM   #7
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I am in bed with the flu right now, even though I got my flu shot in October. Soon as I am back on my feet, I’ll source it for you. Seems like there was some information/instructions on the inside of the outdoor refrigerator venting compartment. Have not had the flu in about 50 years, so this has been kind of devastating. Fortunately, I have an angel taking care of me. The arm up stops the water flow, so I am not sure if the thermostat triggers when the arm is up. Don’t want to test it again. I’ll get all my info for you in a few days.
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Old 02-08-2018, 12:11 PM   #8
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I can add to this. I can trace the heater wire. It wraps around the valve/solenoid and then goes up the water supply tube towards the ice-maker. Its a wire with a white cloth material covering. There is nothing that protects the supply line coming from under the stove.


I'm still waiting on my new valve from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-08-2018, 01:32 PM   #9
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So the Refrig supposedly does have some sort of heater for cold weather operation but how much help could that be if at a minimum the cold water line into the valve is not protected?
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokslinger View Post
I am in bed with the flu right now, even though I got my flu shot in October. Soon as I am back on my feet, I’ll source it for you. Seems like there was some information/instructions on the inside of the outdoor refrigerator venting compartment. Have not had the flu in about 50 years, so this has been kind of devastating. Fortunately, I have an angel taking care of me. The arm up stops the water flow, so I am not sure if the thermostat triggers when the arm is up. Don’t want to test it again. I’ll get all my info for you in a few days.
Thank you, that would be great.
Get well first. I live in the South so no urgency.
I haven't had the flu in 50 years either. Vaccine wasn't available at my last appointment in August so just got the shot 2 weeks ago. News reports give it a 10 to 30% effectiveness. I try to stay away from sick people, lol.
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