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Old 08-22-2016, 11:23 AM   #1
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Leveling 22' Class C Frustration

Hi everyone! I have been here a few months, and enjoy reading the threads and learning. I would love to read comments on how people deal with not having auto levelers on their motorhome. When we were ordering ours from the model at the RV show I asked about levelers, and the SA told me they don't come on a MH this small. We bought a set of the lego looking orange stacking block levelers at Wall art, but when we used them parked on our relatives' driveway on our trip this summer, it never got leveled. At nearly every campground en route to NY from CA and back
the rig was unlevel, with the rear usually being higher. The poor refrig. was never level. This is a problem. What can I do?


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Old 08-22-2016, 05:00 PM   #2
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Find a parking lot that's level and see if your coach is level. If you have air bags, you might start there, get the coach level in a level parking lot..

I had a 21 ft Dolphin (the Toyhouse), I put the self sticky bubble levels on the drivers door pillar and the instrument panel where I could see them.

I could usually jockey the MH back and forth and find a position that was reasonably level without resorting to the legos.

I do the same with my 30 ft Mirada, jockey back and forth and watch the small bubble levels. If I get it withing 1/2 bubble, thats good for me (and the frig). I carry blocks of wood but have never had to use them.
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Old 08-22-2016, 05:55 PM   #3
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Leveling 22' Class C Frustration

Good advice, I will try that on a parking lot. I may be able to get it right on the street far enough from the curb. What are air bags, aside from the ones that save you in an accident!
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:08 PM   #4
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suspension air bags, They mount on the springs. used to soften the ride and increase load.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:35 AM   #5
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My only real complaint on the design of my 2251.
Doesn't sit level on flat surface.
I always have to use 2 or even 3 levels of Lynx levelors on the front.
The only solution would be to get lift springs for the front suspension (If they make them) and realign. Then you are changing the front geometry.

I will live with leveling for now.

I keep a bubble level in the dash compartment.
When I stop- I throw it on the floor behind me and gauge where I am.
As with Waiter21's response- I jocky around to look for the best starting point.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:53 AM   #6
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I think it just takes practice. I use the orange levelers and get it close enough every time and perfect sometimes. It doesn't have to be perfect. If it feels "good enough" to you it won't hurt the refrigerator.
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:31 AM   #7
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I have a 24' Forester. The front of a C is naturally lower in the front. I have 2 sets of 10 blocks. I never put any in the rear. Sometime you have to put one side higher than the other. Doesn't have to be perfect a little off is no big deal, just check your level bubble. I've had sites that were so steep that they were impossible to level,so I changed sites.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:41 PM   #8
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Our drive has a 7" pitch front to back. We purchased a pair of heavy duty plastic car ramps that fit the bill. They are light enough to carry and you can level from 1" to 7" depending how far up the ramp you go.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:35 PM   #9
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I stopped trying to level out the built in slope to the front. I think it is something like 1 degree. Nowhere near enough to affect the fridge. 9 out of 10 sites, we do not have to level. I will jockey around on the site if it helps find an approximately level spot. Basically if we are within 2 degrees fore-aft and left-right, we are good to go. Although we try not to be head down as far as the bed sleeping position. The built in slope to the front seems to take care of that most of the time.

I have a pair of the calibrated small levels mounted so that I can see them while I'm at the wheel. That makes it a lot easier to pick my spot.

With our trailers, I used to try to be so exact. Now, it's just liberating to not mess with it, and live with 2 degrees off.
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:30 PM   #10
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This thought just occurred to me....has any manufacturer come-up with a self leveling fridge? or a manual means to level it when parked?

I realize we want a motorhome level for other reasons but the fridge seems to be the priority. It would seem easier to me, but perhaps more expensive, to devise a means to level just it in the comfort of air conditioning.

**picking up a 2015 2300 Chevy on Friday**
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:34 PM   #11
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Slightly out of level does not effect refridge, or A/C
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:31 PM   #12
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Have you tried anderson levelers as they work on most rvs
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:42 PM   #13
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I will research Andersen levelers, thanks!
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:20 PM   #14
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I parked mine on the flat part of my driveway. The Chevy's definitely ride nose low. I put my 4' carpenter's level on the floor of the coach on the centerline front to back. I used a floor jack and jacked up the front of the rig until I got it level front to back. Side to side was all set as the section of my driveway is level. Once I had the floor level I took a plastic RV level that I bought, the one that shows front to back and side to side level - looks like this -

I put a glob of silicone on top of my trailer hitch then set the level into the silicone. I moved it until it showed level front to back and side to side and let it set up.

I'm a cheap Yankee so rather than buy leveling blocks I cut up some 2X10 and 2X12 doug fir into various lengths between 12 inches and 24 inches, angling the cut on one end. I stack them as needed to adjust the level of the rig. I found that if I stack a couple of the shorter blocks then put a 24 inch block on the ground to the top of the pile of blocks - in essence creating a ramp - that seems to work a little better. While I stand at the rear of the rig where I can see the stuck on level my wife drives the rig slowly forward up the ramp until I see the bubble center front to back...or at least close to level. Put it in park and put on the parking brake and it's all set. The ramp method gives much more adjustment leeway over just stacking blocks.

Or, you can buy the plastic legos and stack them up. Whatever works best for you, but the stuck on level on the rear works good. On my old camper I used one of the bullseye levels and stuck that on top of the square bumper on one corner but figured the two axis level would be more accurate.
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Old 08-30-2016, 11:46 PM   #15
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We went the 2x6 & 2x8 leveling blocks for a while, but found they split pretty easily. I had some old 3/4" plywood laying around, so I cut it into pieces that would fit & fill a rubbermaid tub. They are about 10x20. At 3/4" thick, it's easy to fine tune the level.

We found the Chevy sits low in the front end as well - and many times, we use it to our advantage. However, sometimes it takes a few more chunks to bring 'er up to a respectable level. We've been out on 3 trips spanning 4 nights thus far, so we are still getting a feel for the level. As it has such a short wheelbase compared to our old one, it doesn't take much of a block to make a big difference.
Hence, the 3/4" blocks make it easier than 1 1/2 inch blocks.
Also, the plywood has stood up for many camping seasons. I made these up perhaps 6 years ago.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forester Fred View Post
I parked mine on the flat part of my driveway. The Chevy's definitely ride nose low. I put my 4' carpenter's level on the floor of the coach on the centerline front to back. I used a floor jack and jacked up the front of the rig until I got it level front to back. Side to side was all set as the section of my driveway is level. Once I had the floor level I took a plastic RV level that I bought, the one that shows front to back and side to side level - looks like this -

I put a glob of silicone on top of my trailer hitch then set the level into the silicone. I moved it until it showed level front to back and side to side and let it set up.

I'm a cheap Yankee so rather than buy leveling blocks I cut up some 2X10 and 2X12 doug fir into various lengths between 12 inches and 24 inches, angling the cut on one end. I stack them as needed to adjust the level of the rig. I found that if I stack a couple of the shorter blocks then put a 24 inch block on the ground to the top of the pile of blocks - in essence creating a ramp - that seems to work a little better. While I stand at the rear of the rig where I can see the stuck on level my wife drives the rig slowly forward up the ramp until I see the bubble center front to back...or at least close to level. Put it in park and put on the parking brake and it's all set. The ramp method gives much more adjustment leeway over just stacking blocks.

Or, you can buy the plastic legos and stack them up. Whatever works best for you, but the stuck on level on the rear works good. On my old camper I used one of the bullseye levels and stuck that on top of the square bumper on one corner but figured the two axis level would be more accurate.
We tried the Legos for convenience ans space savings. They crush on the first use and are worthless. Back to the wood blocks.
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Old 08-31-2016, 07:31 AM   #17
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I don't know what you bought but I have 2 sets of camco blocks and used them 14 times so far and they are just as food as new, cost about $60.00
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:48 PM   #18
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I've been using the Levelmate Pro on my last couple trips with our 30' Forester, really impressed, it shows on your phone how level you are before you get out of your seat. It shows how many inches of blocking you need under which wheel down to 1/4". Pretty nice to only pull out the blocks you need once and your done. I use the double size Camco blocks for a base with with the singles on top it helps keep them from crushing on pavement.


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Old 08-31-2016, 11:58 PM   #19
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I use cut pieces of 2x8 wood. Very cheap and east to use. Rule of thumb...put a beer on the table and if it doesn't slide off, you're good to go. I very rarely camp in a trailer park/camp ground. Usually find flat spots under trees in the forest
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Old 09-01-2016, 12:45 AM   #20
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I've been using the Levelmate Pro on my last couple trips with our 30' Forester, really impressed, it shows on your phone how level you are before you get out of your seat. It shows how many inches of blocking you need under which wheel down to 1/4". Pretty nice to only pull out the blocks you need once and your done. I use the double size Camco blocks for a base with with the singles on top it helps keep them from crushing on pavement.


Brian

Is levelmate pro an app for your phone? For iPhone and android?
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